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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

jalebi

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Would I be able to get a tailor to lengthen the sleeve by an inch here?

IMG_20200713_160758.jpg

IMG_20200713_160818.jpg
 

nevaeh

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Would I be able to get a tailor to lengthen the sleeve by an inch here?
Where is this from? Because some of the RTW places (SuitSupply and Spier & McKay, for instance) leave enough allowance to lengthen the sleeves by at least an inch.

Perhaps someone like Mr. Despos can tell by the second photo how much allowance is there—and teach people like me something new along the way.
 

jalebi

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Where is this from? Because some of the RTW places (SuitSupply and Spier & McKay, for instance) leave enough allowance to lengthen the sleeves by at least an inch.

Perhaps someone like Mr. Despos can tell by the second photo how much allowance is there—and teach people like me something new along the way.
The suit is an uncollected Sartoria Castangia MTM or bespoke. I reckon there should be an inch there given its provenance.

This person has pretty much the same body shape as me, save for their shorter arms.
 

nevaeh

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The suit is an uncollected Sartoria Castangia MTM or bespoke. I reckon there should be an inch there given its provenance.

This person has pretty much the same body shape as me, save for their shorter arms.
Interesting! Now we really need one of the tailors on this forum to give us input. I know bespoke tailors typically provide allowances for the areas of people's bodies that are likely to change (waist, etc.). But, since one would not expect arms to grow over time, I'll be curious to hear from the experts about whether sleeves have allowances.

The fabric looks great, by the way.
 

jalebi

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Interesting! Now we really need one of the tailors on this forum to give us input. I know bespoke tailors typically provide allowances for the areas of people's bodies that are likely to change (waist, etc.). But, since one would not expect arms to grow over time, I'll be curious to hear from the experts about whether sleeves have allowances.

The fabric looks great, by the way.
Thanks, it is a really beautiful Super 140s. Looks more solid from a distance, but has a subtle texture. Picked up a bargain for sure, now just need to get the sleeves fixed if I can!
 

ter1413

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nevaeh

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Hi everyone! What do you think of the fit of this jacket? What alterations would you suggest? It's RTW, so I'm not expecting miracles, but it's the most I can afford right now.

I'll appreciate your feedback!
As others have said, this looks good to me. But I’m sure Mr. @Despos might have more expert feedback on specifics.
 

Despos

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Would I be able to get a tailor to lengthen the sleeve by an inch here?

View attachment 1424165
View attachment 1424169
The folded up cloth on the inside of the sleeve is the outlet used to make the sleeves longer. Same as looking at the turned up hem of the trouser. All of the turn up can be used to lengthen the sleeve but you need '5" at least to fold up into the sleeve. Usually if you need that much cloth. a facing piece should be attached to create a substantial hem and sometimes additional length of lining is needed. You can see how much cloth is available but sometimes you don't know how the outlets have been trimmed until you actually open the sleeve and see everything.
 
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FlyingHorker

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@Despos

What effect would only taking in the waist on underarm darts have? I have a prominent bum so I was thinking of only taking in the waist there.

I brought it up to my tailor and he vehemently said "No, I don't like this!"
 

Despos

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@Despos

What effect would only taking in the waist on underarm darts have? I have a prominent bum so I was thinking of only taking in the waist there.

I brought it up to my tailor and he vehemently said "No, I don't like this!"
not sure what underarm darts are
 

Despos

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Can use that seam to reduce the chest. You need to open the sleeves and reshape front of the armhole to do so.
With patch pockets you could effect the waist on that seam but then you also have to redo the pocket. You only want to work on that seam if that is where the cloth needs to be reduced. If the jacket has flap pockets you can't sew close to the waist line unless you remove or undo most of the pocket. Enormous effort and cost prohibitive.

To shape a jacket for you body type you need to move the waist line up. Make a higher waist so it doesn't hang on your hips.
 
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