The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. goneAWOL

    goneAWOL Senior member

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    Just looking for some general suggestions here. I have some thoughts in mind about what I'm considering having done, but I'd like to defer to the experts first. Thanks!

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  2. pph1986

    pph1986 New Member

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    Hi all, this is my first post. Thing is, I've always hated wearing shirts because of my tiny 32" waist. I've always had loads of excess fabric when i tried to tuck shirts in. However, recently I bought this white shirt which fits me OK imo. I still want to get my fit completely dialed in, so I can start ordering MTM shirts, and maybe start to enjoy wearing dress shirts!
    Thanks in advance

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  3. Svenn

    Svenn Senior member

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    In mens suiting, a tiny waist is good provided you have shoulders sufficiently broad relative to them... which you do. You appear relatively muscular as well, which is a drawback because if you start piling on a belt, pockets with stuff in them, and jacket skirt on top of sturdy hips, they can get as wide as the shoulders which doesn't necessarily look good. I have the same build and waist size as you, and feel I always look best in just a dress shirt and trousers. Anyway, just have a tailor take in the side seams until you feel the shirt is sufficiently fitted in the torso, you still have a few inches you can take out. I prefer stylistically to roll up the sleeves, since shirt sleeves necessarily have to be slightly baggy on the forearm to accommodate mobility, which you can see in your pics. Always wear dark trousers to draw attention away from your hips, and lightish shirts to enlarge the shoulders... get something more interesting than plain white (light blue stripes, etc), and you'll have the perfect business casual look that works in almost all settings.
     


  4. Aristo36

    Aristo36 Member

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    I took the jacket in to a reputable local tailor and he made every point Despos pointed out (good eye Despos!) The gentleman also stated that the suit was pieced together from two or more existing (or ready made?) pieces and passed off as custom or bespoke (which I paid for).

    QUESTION: As a consumer what can I look for in a suit's construction to differentiate a true custom bespoke from "the others?"

    The gentleman politely declined to go into further detail. I respect that because I am no tailor and certainly wouldn't understand everything in 5 minutes.

    Forgive me if I asked anything inappropriate.
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2012


  5. Renalan

    Renalan Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    I have a problem with most high-rised wool dress trousers I have. Their seems to be a lot of material behind the thigh right around the knee that droops and doesn't really drape down properly to give nice straight lines. The trousers are actually pretty loose through the thigh and seat area.
     


  6. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    renalan

    it looks like you are posing for g q. you complain about the seat and thigh but in the picture we cant see anything.
    how about a squarely side view and a squarely back view.
     


  7. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Has to do with your posture, you stand with your hips forward ( tailor speak). This translates to needing the trousers cut lower on the back part. It's a trouser balance issue.
     


  8. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Looks like you have darts on the back part already. I would open the side seams and reduce the back only on this shirt.

    Sleeves look a bit long and the cuffs appear a bit too snug.
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2012


  9. goneAWOL

    goneAWOL Senior member

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    Is it worth trying to increase the waist suppression? I've never owned a double vented suit, so I'm not sure of the difficulty and riskiness of doing this. I took a double vented SC to the tailor a few months ago, and she said she couldn't do much for waist suppression. That was a "less experienced" tailor though, and I was curious if it would be worth having a better tailor do it. The last thing I want to do is ruin this suit when I think it already fits pretty well in the first place. I would still appreciate some other feedback as well.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2012


  10. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, taper the waist but the blades are a bit wide and taking in the waist will make the blades and back look even bigger. You carry your right arm to the back more than the left arm and it causes all the wrinkles on the back of the sleeves. Trouser balance is off and you have wrinkles on the leg on the back part.

    Find someone more capable if you can. Taking in he sides isn't that technical but she may alter more women's clothes than men's and be unfamiliar with tailored jackets.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2012


  11. goneAWOL

    goneAWOL Senior member

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    Thanks, I never actually noticed the wrinkles on the back of the leg. The fabric is a very fine, lightweight wool/mohair blend so I figured that wrinkling would naturally occur everywhere. I see what you mean with the unbalanced trousers though, its visible from the side as well.

    Are the blades separate from the shoulders themselves? I thought the shoulder width was pretty good on this suit. Is blade width an easy fix?

    Finally, just to make sure, would you consider money spent on tailoring for this suit to be money well spent? I bought the suit used, and could resell if it is that far off from a good fit.
     


  12. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You have to decide if the suit is worth spending more money on it. Could you find a better replacement or a better fit?

    The wrinkles are about the fit and cut of the trouser for your body type more than the cloth type. The wrinkling will be there regardless of the cloth type.

    The shoulders look about 1/2' to 3/4" too wide on each side, best I can tell from these pictures. The tricky part of reducing the blades is you have to open and resew the sleeve. There is no outlet on the side body part so you can only reduce the blade on the back part so you don't disturb the armhole shape. This changes the size of the armhole and you have to work the sleeve fullness in or recut the sleeve to drape right and look clean.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2012


  13. IrateCustomer

    IrateCustomer Senior member

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    Despos, as a completely uneducated person regarding tailoring...I really appreciate reading your analyses and solutions to these various fit issues.
     


  14. JugglEvan

    JugglEvan Well-Known Member

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    How far past your ass should a suit jacket go? For example, if one was to walk around with a shirt, tie, jacket, and be otherwise naked, and you could not see their butt (unless they shrugged), would the length be adequate?
     


  15. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    There are different opinions on this. But, having just had a discussion with my tailor about this very subject, I think the answer is certainly not the one often quoted on this forum, to do with the knuckle on your thumb etc. I think there are two main issues - one is the 'covering your butt' question, to which I think the answer is the one you already identified (although those of a more mod persuasion would disagree and want them shorter). How much longer than this any jacket goes is the next issue, and this depends more on your core bodily proportions than on where your knuckles are - i.e. how long your legs are in relation to your body, and how wide you are in relation to your height. My body proportions mean that my coats look most balanced when they only just cover my arse. The other factor is taste: some people just like shorter or longer coats, some styles of coat look better longer or shorter than average (personally, I like my DB suit jackets and blazers a little shorter than my SB suit jackets), and of course what is considered 'normal' does change.
     


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