• We would like to welcome Exquisite Trimmings as an official Affiliate Vendor. Exquisite Trimmings is a UK based purveyor of the very best in clothing and accessories, from gloves by Thomas Reimer to leather portfolios from Il Micio, to watch rolls by Rapport London. Please visit their new thread and give them a warm welcome.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

1up

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2008
Messages
1,766
Reaction score
547
Trousers are too tight, rise looks short too. Need at least 1 more inch of cloth across the front panels.
If you are right handed you may be using the right pocket more often and it stretches. See how the waist band curves upward on the right? You have a high hip. Sometimes a high hip is larger than the other hip and can contribute to this.
Looks like all the possibilities I previously mentioned are here.
Yeah, spot on. It's almost like this was a quiz, and I provided the pics which validated your hypothesis..

My right hip is higher, and I am right-handed and will often but my phone in my right pocket, stretching it out more.

How do I accommodate for this on my next trouser make?
 

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
7,163
Reaction score
2,745
Yeah, spot on. It's almost like this was a quiz, and I provided the pics which validated your hypothesis..

My right hip is higher, and I am right-handed and will often but my phone in my right pocket, stretching it out more.

How do I accommodate for this on my next trouser make?
I know what I would do if I was cutting them but it’s tricky telling someone else how to adjust a pattern.
The trouser is too tight from the bottom of the pocket and downward about 5-6”. See how it hugs your thigh in that area. It’s not the pocket flaring, the trouser leg is constricting and pulling in that area. If you release the tightness there the pocket relaxes. You do need more cloth across the front panels. Probably need the crotch let out too.
 

1up

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2008
Messages
1,766
Reaction score
547
I know what I would do if I was cutting them but it’s tricky telling someone else how to adjust a pattern.
The trouser is too tight from the bottom of the pocket and downward about 5-6”. See how it hugs your thigh in that area. It’s not the pocket flaring, the trouser leg is constricting and pulling in that area. If you release the tightness there the pocket relaxes. You do need more cloth across the front panels. Probably need the crotch let out too.
Maybe easier if I just try to lose 5 lbs :)
 

AdductorMagnus

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2015
Messages
188
Reaction score
201
Disclaimer: I learned to thread a sewing machine 3 months ago, so I'm a novice at tailoring to put it mildly. No intention of quitting my day job.

I'm venturing into making myself something wearable. I've been reading and watching YouTube. And then I tried to make myself a pair of high-waisted fishtail dress trousers, drafted from the instructions below (which someone lifted off the cutter&tailor forum before it went dark).
MorrisTrousers001 (1).jpgMorrisTrousers002.jpg
And then I made a muslin(?), and I expect to make plenty more before I get to cutting into anything costing more than €5/meter.

20200702_223136.jpg20200702_223203.jpg20200702_223232.jpg

Obviously, there are issues (one being my wife's photography skills, sorry). Back crotch tightness o_O, maybe too much fabric in the back upper thigh area. I'm not sure where to begin. Any pointers would be much appreciated.

I know what I would do if I was cutting them but it’s tricky telling someone else how to adjust a pattern.
Of course I just saw this a couple posts up... Broad strokes, a pointer to accessible relevant reading/video material, or telling me to abandon all hope will do.
 

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
7,163
Reaction score
2,745
Would suggest making a regular styled trouser with a more moderate rise first. When you get the pattern/fit dialed in then experiment.
Pay attention to how changes in the pattern during your experimenting reflect on the actual trouser.
Find a coach, someone making trousers to guide you. Watching videos is ok but without experience you don't know what to look for or to recognize techniques that are being done but not explained. Lots of instruction videos tell you what to do but don't explain how to do it or how to hold the cloth or how to solve sewing problems. If you don't know or are able to recognize the correct way to sew you won't know if you did it correctly. Videos can't tell you how you did.
Take a sewing class. Learn how to use a thimble. Learn how to make a buttonhole by hand. Will take 100 buttonholes or so to get comfortable with it.
That is a very old fashion draft in your post. Drop the seat curve on the back part down so it is on the same line as the dotted line of the front part or maybe just below the dotted line. Let out the crotch on the back part at least 1 to 1.5 inches. Those two changes should help the seat fit better.
Keep sewing and practicing. Would really help if someone guides you and gives you feedback. Might speed up your progress and avoid bad sewing habits.
 

AdductorMagnus

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2015
Messages
188
Reaction score
201
Thank you for a substantial response. I will mothball this project and start from scratch with something more basic. I was almost hoping for that advice. I dare say I learned quite a few things from this endeavour, though. Sadly, I think finding someone locally here on the west coast of Norway to coach me is unlikely.
 

hugh51271

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2010
Messages
91
Reaction score
6

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
7,163
Reaction score
2,745
Adjust the rise on this sample pair. You can rework these and not waste your effort. Sew a piece on the crotch and reshape/deepen the seat curve to make the adjustment.
Contact sewing service companies in your town. Places that sell or service sewing machines and ask about their clients. You might find other people sewing like you or even an instructor.
 

rwtc

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2014
Messages
309
Reaction score
107
Dear all - I dropped off 3 Attolini jackets with a local bespoke tailor (very reputable) for handmade surgeon's cuffs. They originally quoted me "a few days", then the ETA turned into a week, then that turned into two weeks. Now, on the third week, they advised that the job was done. When I went in for pick-up, the job was done by a complete amateur, who I suspect did their very first buttonholes on my jacket. The job is likely the worst you'll ever find on the internet. Different widths, broken thread, lopsided stitching, etc. Also, this "tailor" as well caused minor damage to some of the finishing at the cuffs. They themselves said that someone completely new did the job, and apparently their house of all 3rd generation tailors did not even bother to QA 1 buttonhole.

For reference, they provided a picture of their work beforehand, which looked great. The end result is pure atrocity. I didn't take a picture to share because I didn't want my blood pressure to rise every time I see it.

Anyway.. they've offered to fix it for me with a more experienced tailor taking apart everything and re-doing, but I am unsure whether I should take them up on the offer, or bring it to another tailor that I know will do a fantastic job.

Could someone please advise you would proceed if you were in my shoes?

Thank you
 
Last edited:

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
7,163
Reaction score
2,745
Thank you for a substantial response. I will mothball this project and start from scratch with something more basic. I was almost hoping for that advice. I dare say I learned quite a few things from this endeavour, though. Sadly, I think finding someone locally here on the west coast of Norway to coach me is unlikely.
@AdductorMagnus
Cutter and tailor site is still active. Went there to verify after you said it went dark.
 

Big A

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2008
Messages
2,428
Reaction score
831
I just ordered two off the rack suits from the Armoury and both of them have a chest pucker I'm not sure is repairable... it's only on one side (low shoulder), but I'm not sure a little extra padding will fix it. Is this just a matter of taking some fabric out of the chest near the sleeve?
 

Attachments

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
7,163
Reaction score
2,745
I just ordered two off the rack suits from the Armoury and both of them have a chest pucker I'm not sure is repairable... it's only on one side (low shoulder), but I'm not sure a little extra padding will fix it. Is this just a matter of taking some fabric out of the chest near the sleeve?
The pic shows the flaw but does not reveal enough information to diagnose the cause. Could be several reasons. Not a clear cut solution and it won’t be an easy fix.
Place something on your shoulder about .5” thick, like a sponge, see how it affects this fold of cloth. Easy thing to do and see the effect without having to visit a tailor
 

otc

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Aug 15, 2008
Messages
18,763
Reaction score
8,797
Is this unstructured Golden Fleece suit within the realm of tailoring to fit? I've never owned something with no padding whatsoever so I'm not entirely sure--there's basting thread in the shoulders and with no padding/lining, perhaps surgery is easier.

I have pretty broad, square, and uneven shoulders (@Despos you probably don't remember, but when we met at a dinner at the Bristol many years ago, the first thing you said to me was "you must be hard to fit"). It is in my normal size, but it feels a little big.

Pants waist is much too big as not only am I usually a more than average drop, but I've also lost weight and put on some muscle mass during quarantine...

front.jpg

side.jpg

back.jpg


Was a crazy price and I like the color, so it would be nice if I could make it work, but otherwise it is returnable.
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

What's your favorite summer fabric?

  • Seersucker

  • Fresco

  • Linen

  • Silk


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
440,694
Messages
9,509,112
Members
199,035
Latest member
Rezentesi
Top