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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Despos

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Thank you so much for the knowledge! I understand pitch can be wrinkles forming at the front too, but I thought the wrinkles appearing on the back if I move my arm back meant that it was pitched too far back - I had no idea it was the sleeve still being attached to the jacket that did that, so thank you again. I'll get a picture from the front.
Wrinkles on the back of the sleeve means the sleeve is set too far to the front/forward. You rotate the sleeve so it hangs more to the back.
Wrinkles on the front, like your jacket means the sleeve is set too far to the back and you rotate the sleeve to hang more to the front, move the pitch forward. The sleeve naturally wants to hang to the back but with your arm in the sleeve pushing the sleeve forward, it creates the wrinkles over your bicep on the front.
 

Mr_natural78

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I am wondering if the tailors here would be willing to help me in making a thread choice. I want to make my own pocket squares like these.
white_linen_pocket_square_with_burgundy_red_handrolled_x_stitch_-4714_dsc_4713_2_1.jpg

I have a lot of experience hand sewing leather and have found a tutorial showing how these stitches are done. I am at a loss for sourcing a larger diameter thread like this. The best I've come up with is buttonhole silk twist from superior threads. Thier description says it is suitable for hand stithing buttonholes and embellishments. I have ordered large machine thead from them for my cobra class 4 saddle and harness stitcher. Is the buttonhole silk twist suitable for this application or is there a better alternative. I will also attach a picture of a hand sewn leather sheath I made for my round knife. It is hand sewn with 1mm ritza 25 tiger thread. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
20191028_135551.jpg
 

Despos

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Buttonhole twist is heavier, thicker than the red thread in your picture. There is a finishing thread that is between normal size and buttonhole twist but I don’t know how to identify it. Google tailor supply that sell threads. Explain what you want and they will guide you. On the east coast try Wawak or Bias Bespoke. West coast try B. Black and Son.
Wouldn’t think a heavy thread on a fine fabric used for a square would be compatible.
 
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The jacket is collapsing in the back because your shoulders are sloped more than the line of the jacket's shoulder. Try the jacket on and place a folded wash cloth or a small sponge, something about .5" thick under the jacket on top of your shoulder. This will give you a better, clearer picture of what needs to be done on the back. The back blades need to be reduced but getting the shoulder picked up first will help to see how much. Reducing is best done on the side seams but requires opening the sleeves; this takes much more time for the tailor and will cost much more for you.
I don't think the fronts look good on the upper chest. Looks too narrow from the armhole upward to the shoulder. Looks like your chest is busting out of the jacket. The breakline of the lapel is bowing like ( ) instead of looking straight and making a V shape from the collar to the button.
If you can try on other makes and find something that is cut better for your shoulder/body type, you will need less alteration and be better off.
Hi Despos,

Thank you for your feedback, I really appreciate it. After reading your comments I decided to pursue the return option as I don’t think it’s the best fit OTR (especially with a decent amount of experienced/tedious tailoring work).

I will try looking for a cut that fits my body well. Again, thank you for the advice you provide here!

Cheers!
 

Despos

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Howdy, got this jacket recently, fit is pretty good, wondering if there should be any alts made? View attachment 1393320
Nothing really needs adjusting.
Sleeves are short and uneven. Right is shorter than left. Shirt sleeves seem a touch short. Would adjust this if it was my jacket.
Waist seems a bit snug and pulls on button but that is subjective and not necessary to adjust.
You have a low right shoulder but it's not causing any issues worth dealing with.
 

TheChihuahua

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Wow, I just found this thread and reading Despos is like when I’m trying to learn a new opening in chess. So much information, a lot to take in at once.
Thanks for the guidance.
 

buddyfuzz

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Something I've been wondering for a little while: What factors does a cutter take in to consideration when determining the length of the vents? I've noticed they seem to often be longer in Neapolitan tailoring. Is it just a stylistic thing, or do longer/shorter vents help with certain aspects of fit?
 

Despos

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Something I've been wondering for a little while: What factors does a cutter take in to consideration when determining the length of the vents? I've noticed they seem to often be longer in Neapolitan tailoring. Is it just a stylistic thing, or do longer/shorter vents help with certain aspects of fit?
Do what I learned during my training/apprenticeship. We made the vent height on line with the front pocket. Vent is the same distance from the hem as the front pocket is from the hem.
If you followed the jacket Frank Shattuck made here, he made the vents much longer and opened higher than this.
No rules to follow that I know of. Stylistic choice of the tailor or the client
 

jandersson

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I'd appreciate some feedback regarding my latest jacket and trousers.

Trousers
The trousers are made from 15 oz VBC stone covert wool. Overall I'm very happy with them but there's still a couple of minor things I'd like to improve for the next pair:
  • The right front crease is perfect. Nice and straight from top to bottom without converging at the top and with a nice rolling transition from pleat to crease. The left front crease is less well behaved. The left pleat is positioned closer to the fly than the right and it doesn't roll quite as nicely. I imagine that making the pleat positions perfectly symmetrical and increasing the width of the left leg slightly might improve the situation?
  • The area below the seat could be cleaner. This is something I've struggled with for a long time. Neither me nor Luxire appears to be capable of solving this. Unless someone here has any good ideas I'm leaning towards giving up and calling it good enough.
shirtStripedCropped.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/b3b8n4qt7xvt9gw/shirtStripedCropped.jpg?dl=0

Jacket
Let's start with my previous jacket as a reference. Overall I like the look, but it has a few issues:
  1. The chest width is too tight. The narrow back limits my reach and and the lapels are pulled a bit outwards.
  2. The lower half of the sleeves are too narrow. They can't slide up my arms which limits reach and they feel too tight at the elbows when I bend my arms.
  3. The collar shape at the back of the neck is odd. It doesn't follow the line of the shirt collar but instead bends down at center back.
jacketBlueCropped.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/zpin4rpbm4ffhe7/jacketBlueCropped.jpg?dl=0

Now for my latest jacket in brown glen check flannel from Loro Piana:
  1. The chest width was increased from 51 to 54 cm and is no longer restrictive.
  2. The sleeve circumference at the elbow was increased by 1 cm. Enough to no longer feel restrictive.
  3. The collar now sits a bit higher center back. Not fully in line with the collar line, but enough to no longer look odd.
jacketBrownclosedFlapsOutCropped.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/a046e4nww0m8t05/jacketBrownclosedFlapsOutCropped.jpg?dl=0

Unfortunately not all changes were improvements:
  • Is the extra chest and waist width too much?
  • The upper sleeve width was increased from 19 to 21.5 cm. I didn't feel a need for more with in the upper arms and I don't like the look. The back of the sleeves are messier. Maybe because of the excess fabric? Maybe the sleeve pitch is off?
  • The arm hole size increased from 27 to 30 cm. I loved the high arm holes on the previous jacket and I don't appreciate the increase. Maybe it was done to fit the larger sleeve?
  • The shoulder seems to have a lot more roping. Maybe it's just because of the different fabric? Or maybe it's a different construction? I'd prefer a more natural knocked down shoulder.
All thoughts, tips and ideas are welcome. Both pattern improvements for the next iteration as well as alteration suggestions for this jacket.
 
Last edited:

EddieK

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I commissioned this MTM piece and recently got it back.
I see a few problems, which I think maybe due to quality control b/c of the pandemic.
But I'd like to get other's eyes on it and see if we're on the same page.
Any feedback is appreciated, thanks!
 

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