• Welcome to our newest affiliate vendor, Passus Shoes. We are very happy to welcome our newest affiliate vendor, Passus Shoes. Passus shoes was founded by long term members of the forum and veterans of the shoes business. and is dedicated to crafting fine shoes in Budapest in a time honored tradition. Please help me give them a warm welcome in their new affiliate vendor thread.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

EddieK

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2019
Messages
351
Reaction score
180
Ah yes I do have some front and side pictures!
I think I know what you mean by only the side seams. I really hope it's doable with mine
Hi @Despos
Just following up on this~
I got the front and side pictures. Do you think it's possible to bring out the front/side seams like you were saying to get the back to lay a bit more cleanly?
Thanks in advance!
 
Last edited:

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
7,056
Reaction score
2,602
half canvas actually
Will suggest what changes I would do and you can decide what effect they have.
The chest is too small from armhole upwards. This causes the bowing of the lapel when buttoned. Buttoning point is too high. If these were changed the chest would lie flat and the stress would be less obvious on the button. What you see now is the fronts being pulled together to button and it causes the lower fronts to torque outwards. See how the front panels are convex at the front edge and is bowing upward? This is difficult to correct on a half canvas construction but is exaggerated by the fit.
Looks like the fronts are bit short, front/back balance, and contributing to this.
The lapels are hollow and doing the same thing. This is from the construction methods.
Those points when paired with the narrow shoulder create an A line effect of the silhouette. Narrow at the top and flaring out to the hem. This is opposite of male proportions used in anatomy drawings.
Most egregious is the narrow shoulder. Take a look at almost any jacket. The angle of how the sleeve attaches to the body is close to parallel of the breakline of the lapel, like this //. The line of the sleeve on your jacket is almost opposite and at least is horizontal. Your jacket looks like this / I. the diagonal line being the breakline of the lapel on the left front and the vertical being the sleeve/body seam on the left sleeve. This adds to the A line effect the jacket has.
Bigger chest doesn't mean it will be full or loose, you can still have a fitted jacket.You gain balance and proportion and you look fit. Will also add shape to the jacket which will get you many more compliments. Nobody is going to approach you and say "hey,nice super fitted suit!" They may respond to a shaped jacket with good proportions.
Don't use the pockets on the trousers. Anything you put in the pockets will bulge out and look bad.

Style, proportion and fit were sacrificed at the altar of "super slim fit"
If your approach was to have the most fitted, close to the body suit, then you came close. The effect came out looking contrived, forced and unbalanced. Jacket looks painful to wear IMO.
 
Last edited:

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
7,056
Reaction score
2,602
Hi @Despos
Just following up on this~
I got the front and side pictures. Do you think it's possible to bring out the front/side seams like you were saying to get the back to lay a bit more cleanly?
Thanks in advance!
It's all up to who does the work and how they approach it. It can be done but execution has be done correctly
 

AriGold

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2009
Messages
1,302
Reaction score
491
helpful, thank you despos!
 

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
7,056
Reaction score
2,602
@AriGold
Look how the sleeve is attached here. See the difference in the lines? The angle of the breakline and the sleeve is about parallel. These are very fitted jackets. Chest has cloth where needed, and trim where it should be.
iu.jpeg
iu-1.jpeg
 

Kevin24

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2014
Messages
240
Reaction score
104
Hi All,

I recently purchased a Schott's Wool Peacoat from O'Connell's. I am somewhere between. 40R and 42R (depending on my weight fluctuations). They recommended ordering true to size so I ordered a 40R (though the cut of the coat is generous).

I am unable to take pictures but I am finding the arms quite tight and I feel tightness/pulling when I cross my arms when I am wearing the peacoat. I am undecided if this is due to the weight of the wool or if I need to size up? While the peacoat appears to be the correct length in the arms the body fits just fine?

Is this just the wool weight/structure of the jacket like I'm thinking? Or should I size up?

Thank you for your advice!
 

dennistsang

Active Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2017
Messages
38
Reaction score
39
Hi all, I just had my fitting with my tailor. But there is still wrinkling at the lower part of the back.

Do you guys have any comments about this? Thank you.

IMG_4235.jpg


Here is the front.
IMG_4186.jpg
 

dauster

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2019
Messages
594
Reaction score
246
Hi all, I just had my fitting with my tailor. But there is still wrinkling at the lower part of the back.

Do you guys have any comments about this? Thank you.

View attachment 1386757

Here is the front.
View attachment 1386758
first of looks pretty nice. I like it. who is your tailor?

looks like it's a first fitting. have you asked your tailor about it? I am sure @Despos can give the right advice though...
 

buddyfuzz

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2016
Messages
114
Reaction score
46
My jackets always have an issue with the left sleeve feeling like it's twisting/folding over itself around the bicep area. It only happens on the left side, and it doesn't seem to be a pitch issue? Does anyone have any idea what's causing this? Apologies that the photos aren't the best!

1589308951718.png

1589308988617.png
 

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
7,056
Reaction score
2,602
Hi all, I just had my fitting with my tailor. But there is still wrinkling at the lower part of the back.

Do you guys have any comments about this? Thank you.

View attachment 1386757

Here is the front.
View attachment 1386758
Because you say “it’s still wrinkling”; was this altered?
Check the lining in case it is tight, lengthwise and across the waist.
The waist suppression looks too low. The smallest part of the taper could be moved upward and let out at the top of the vents in case it’s tight on the hip
 
Last edited:

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
7,056
Reaction score
2,602
My jackets always have an issue with the left sleeve feeling like it's twisting/folding over itself around the bicep area. It only happens on the left side, and it doesn't seem to be a pitch issue? Does anyone have any idea what's causing this? Apologies that the photos aren't the best!

View attachment 1387599
View attachment 1387600
Hard to say by these pictures.
With the jacket on and arms relaxed, move your left arm backwards about 2” and see if it changes.
See some twisting in the shoulder but you didn’t mention that.
 

buddyfuzz

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2016
Messages
114
Reaction score
46
Hard to say by these pictures.
With the jacket on and arms relaxed, move your left arm backwards about 2” and see if it changes.
See some twisting in the shoulder but you didn’t mention that.
It changes a bit for the better when I move my left arm back, but then I get rumpling at the back of the sleeve as if it were pitched too far forward. I will try and get some proper photos today/this weekend. It almost feels like the sleeve is twisted a bit. The issue also relaxes a bit if I rotate my left palm, so instead of the palm being parallel to my side, the face of the palm is facing forwards, if that makes sense.
 

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
7,056
Reaction score
2,602
It changes a bit for the better when I move my left arm back, but then I get rumpling at the back of the sleeve as if it were pitched too far forward. I will try and get some proper photos today/this weekend. It almost feels like the sleeve is twisted a bit. The issue also relaxes a bit if I rotate my left palm, so instead of the palm being parallel to my side, the face of the palm is facing forwards, if that makes sense.
My guess was your left sleeve is set too far to the back and not on the same line as your left arm. The sleeve would be rotated forward to correct the issue. Wrinkles on the back of the sleeve when the sleeve is set too far forward. Wrinkles on front when the sleeve is set too far to the back. Could be more to it or something else entirely. I’m guessing from the limited view of the picture.
If you have it adjusted the tailor will tell you the cause.
 
Last edited:

buddyfuzz

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2016
Messages
114
Reaction score
46
Any advice on cleaning up the back of this jacket? It's a very lightweight S150 with a super smooth handle. It's not a great cloth for drape, and I've definitely learned from that, but it's here now! I don't think it looks quite this bad in real life, but I edited the brightness to try and show the issues. I really can't tell what's too much and what's too little fabric!

It doesn't feel tight anywhere, I'm able to comfortably put my hand in the front of the jacket and pull it forward. I feel like I have jackets with a tighter waist that don't have these issues, so perhaps a big part of it is just the cloth?

Screenshot 2020-05-18 at 16.59.49.png
Screenshot 2020-05-18 at 16.59.39.png
Screenshot 2020-05-18 at 16.59.25.png
Screenshot 2020-05-18 at 16.58.54.png
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

How do you feel about spending money on non-essential goods during the Covid-19 crisis?

  • I don't want to spend money at a time of economic uncertainty, even if I could afford it.

  • I feel compelled to spend to help small businesses that are struggling.

  • I reduced my budget for non-essential goods and I'm not spending at the moment.

  • Not much has changed for me and I'm still buying stuff I can't afford.


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
438,450
Messages
9,448,424
Members
198,025
Latest member
lmfimanh
Top