The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Nikias

    Nikias Active Member

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    Thanks for taking the time to give me an opinion. I had a feeling about the jacket length - I do tend to be in the no-man's land between an R and an S and in this case the S looked like a woman's coat. I have read elsewhere on this forum that shortening a jacket is far from straightforward, but do you think that in this case it is likely to be successful and not throw the rest of jacket out of proportion? The button stance is slightly high to my eye, so I suppose that might help if I correctly understand these things.

    Do you think it is worth keeping and altering the suit from what you can see then? Would you even say the fit is good enough in the shoulders/chest etc. that it is worth getting another in a different colour, but the same cut and size (at a similar discount)? I can probably find a better camera if sharper pictures would help. Thanks again for the advice.
     


  2. rs232

    rs232 Senior member

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    Hello masters, I'd love a right-between-the-eyes critique of this suit so I can improve next time. There are obvious defects such as the sleeves being too short, the lumpy shoulder, and the pulling on the front button, but I'm most interested in the excess "chestyness" at the lower pectoral/underarm that is rippling, and the collar which wants to sit away from the shirt collar. Are the fronts set too "wide" apart (i.e. the back is too wide at the collar)?


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    Oh, and I cleaned my shears.
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  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Hard to diagnose the questions you ask from this set of pictures. Would want to see how the shoulders are cut and how the collar was basted. Jacket looks like it has a short front and back and thats why you get the wrinkles under the arms on the body of the jacket on both sides. Chest, shoulder and armholes are too big. Jacket doesn't hug the neck but it could be due to various causes, can't tell from these pictures. Buttoning point is high and the button configuration is very wide. Sleeve cap needs to be trimmed, that would clean up the back of the sleeves.
    Trousers look good, looks like you have a slightly high right hip and are a little bigger on the right hip

    Shears look brand new
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2012


  4. Aristo36

    Aristo36 Member

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    Excellent thread! I have a MTM suit from one of the top STAY AWAY vendor from StyeForum (This was before I found the site). I find the suit very "baggy". Fortunately the tailor is visiting my city this week and I plan to get a second fitting. Any pointers on achieving the proper fit would certainly be passed along to the tailor. Much appreciated SF!

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  5. Aristo36

    Aristo36 Member

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    Double Post.
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2012


  6. diophan

    diophan Member

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    Hi I was wondering for some opinions on overall fit. I was thinking the waist needed to be brought in a couple inches. Also I was wondering if the sleeves are a little bit too short. Thoughts on that? I was planning on replacing the gold buttons with some mother-of-pearl ones because I hate that gold button blazer look. As a side issue how does the sleeve length on the shirt look? I haven't washed it yet so they'll probably shrink a tiny bit.

    Also I just opened this after it was sitting in a box while I was away for a week. I apologize for not letting it reform for a couple days but I needed to pick something up from the tailors tomorrow and was hoping to drop this off.


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    Last edited: Apr 9, 2012


  7. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Ask for a remake or a refund.
     


  8. Aristo36

    Aristo36 Member

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    Would the second fitting do me any good? Or just demand for a refund?
     


  9. Aristo36

    Aristo36 Member

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    This may be a double-post: Should I even waste my time going through a second fitting from these guys? Or is this "suit" so horrible that I should just demand for a refund?

    Despos if its not too much trouble can you list what's wrong with the suit? (I know, everything is bad). I ask this because I am relatively new to how custom suits should fit, and your criticisms give me credibility when I present this garbage (that I paid hard-earned $$$ for) to these guys.

    Thanks.

    P.S. Despos you can always personal message me, too.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2012


  10. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The jacket has several flaws that are hard to correct at this point. The collar is too low and doesn't touch your neck. The shoulders are too wide and not cut for your shoulder slope. back is too wide. The major unfixable is the balance. from the side view the fronts are so short and hike up and flare away from the body. This is the most extreme case I have seen and what cannot be fixed on this suit. Trousers are out of balance and this causes the wrinkles along the back part. They have no line, no shape, no style. Nothing came close to fitting you.
     


  11. Aristo36

    Aristo36 Member

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    Thanks Despo.

    I just hope I can even get my money back at this point.
     


  12. MikeyV

    MikeyV New Member

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    I recently purchased this suit... I had the jacket waist taken in and the pants narrowed, that's it... My question is should I get the sleeves shorten and narrowed?? What about the pants length? Any advice is much appreciated... Thanks in advance... Sorry for the mess I was hungry and impatient... LOL... Taken with my phone camera as well...



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  13. newintown23

    newintown23 Senior member

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    Hello everyone,
    What suit brands would you suggest OTR for semi slopped shoulders? I have a couple of RLBL suits which really fit me quite well. I am looking to make a couple of more additions, but would like to purchase something online at a discount. (zegna, canali, ect)... What suit brands would you suggest which have flat front pants and are more slim fitting? Thank you in advance
     


  14. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    why would you want to destroy the sleeves?
    now that the trouser legs are narrowed it makes your calfs stick out.
    the bottom is so narrow that the leg cannot come down over the instep.
    thats why it needs to be shortened.
    and thats also why it makes your feet look so big.
    but then ladies like men with big feet. LOL
    so dont do that to the sleeves.
    but then ladies like men with big hands for the same reason. more LOL
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2012


  15. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I recently purchased this suit...  I had the jacket waist taken in and the pants narrowed, that's it... My question is should I get the sleeves shorten and narrowed??  What about the pants length?  Any advice is much appreciated... Thanks in advance...  Sorry for the mess I was hungry and impatient...  LOL...  Taken with my phone camera as well...



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    You are trying to make a conventional cut suit look hip and trim and this suit won't translate to that. You need fuller cut legs to compensate for the bow of your leg and you should avoid center vents due to your erect posture. Center vents will not hang correctly for your posture. Jacket sleeve length is about right, don't shorten them.
     


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