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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

1up

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I sent in these blue wool pants for Luxire to replicate (albeit slimmer than SF approved, but I enjoy this type of fit).

g1.jpg


The replication of these Drago Birdseye (250gsm) pants is the exact same, but doesn't quite drape as nicely and I have significant bunching/twisting in places, I'm sure attributed to a lighter fabric.

l1.jpg
l3.jpg
l2.jpg
l4.jpg


2 questions:

1) What can I get a tailor to improve with these current pants (shorten length? 1"? 2"?)

2) What recommendations for my next iteration (little tight in the seat)
 
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Alan Bee

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Can you guys help me identify what is causing the bunching behind the thigh with these Luxire heavy flannel trousers?

View attachment 1327218View attachment 1327219View attachment 1327220View attachment 1327221

Personally I believed the issue to be related to the back rise and thought is would be solved by decreasing the back rise from the waistband while letting out the back rise from the crotch seam. However Luxire suggests the following:


I see how this would mitigate some of the symtoms but fail to see how it solves the issue. What do you guys think?
You have forward hips which is breaking the drape/line at the back of your trousers. I have the same problem. I typically go for a fuller cut (with more fullness at the base of the seat) which helps the drape in the back of the legs .

Alan Bee
 

Alan Bee

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I sent in these blue wool pants for Luxire to replicate (albeit slimmer than SF approved, but I enjoy this type of fit).

View attachment 1327417

The replication of these Drago Birdseye (250gsm) pants is the exact same, but doesn't quite drape as nicely and I have significant bunching/twisting in places, I'm sure attributed to a lighter fabric.

View attachment 1327423View attachment 1327421View attachment 1327422View attachment 1327424

2 questions:

1) What can I get a tailor to improve with these current pants (shorten length? 1"? 2"?)

2) What recommendations for my next iteration (little tight in the seat)
Those trousers are way too tight, like everywhere..... You need to be refitted with better measurements.

Alan Bee
 

1up

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Thanks gents, I suppose my view of a good fit may differ - may I see what you consider a good fitting pair of pants?

These pants are the same measurements, with a different type of fabric - do you believe these are too slim? I think they're quite good in my opinion, which makes me wonder how much the fabric had influenced the fit, and what I can do now.

V1.jpeg

v5.jpg


Here is the type of fit I'm trying to achieve:

v4.jpgv3.jpg
 

Torulf

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Thanks gents, I suppose my view of a good fit may differ - may I see what you consider a good fitting pair of pants?
The white pair looks close to perfect to me, far from your replicated pair. The khakis also look good but you show no picture from behind which for the replicated pair reveals how tight they are.
 

mux8

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Fit critique on this Cavour blazer RTW


38 US
20200131_182947.jpg
20200131_182952.jpg
20200131_182955.jpg


40 US
20200131_183145.jpg
20200131_183150.jpg
20200131_183153.jpg


38 US AGAIN
20200202_111131.jpg
20200202_111138.jpg
20200202_111124.jpg


Other than shortening the arms and "squaring the back" (is this what it's called?). What do you guys think of the fit (esp. in the shoulders and chest)? I think the 38 is the much better fit. This is an unstructured blazer, which I think explains some of the bunching under the arms in the back. The 40 has too much excess fabric in the arms and the back.

Does "squaring the back" help the lower blazer's collar so that it sits lower and closer to the neck? (Is this a standard thing that most tailor's can fix, or do I need to seek a good tailor that is experienced with this)



I also have a 40 US SuSuit jacket (sorry for the jeans)

20200202_112148.jpg
20200202_112153.jpg
20200202_112158.jpg

20200131_183904.jpg
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This jacket fits fairly well in the shoulders but has a bit too much excess around the waist (I believe). I don't think I would dare try the 38 here since I would lose upper body mobility (I have fairly broad shoulders).
My measured shoulder's are 38", chest 40", waist 34"

Any feedback welcome and appreciated.
 

AdductorMagnus

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Do you have scoliosis? Or are you standing with weight shifted to one leg in some of the pics?
 

mux8

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Do you have scoliosis? Or are you standing with weight shifted to one leg in some of the pics?
No, but it might be due to tennis why one shoulder sits a bit lower than the other. I have to work on my posture to ensure both shoulders hang evenly. I think in most photos I tried to stand neutral, but might not have been entirely successful.
 

dukeaw

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What is considered acceptable for shirt collar to show above a suit jacket collar?

I have some shirts that just arrived. They have a 2 inch collar rear height. They have almost an inch showing above the suit jacket collar. Is that too much to show, or an acceptable amount?

My old shirts had 1.5 inches on the collar rear height and showed maybe just under .5 inch.

I ask because I'm having a new suit made and am discussing with my tailor whether to raise the collar height on the jacket by 1/4 inch or to leave it as is.

Thoughts?
 

mux8

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I thought I'd post better pics.

Upon closer evaluation it seems that the 40 is a better fit? It looks more "proportioned" relative to the rest of the body. The only issue is that the arm might be slightly too large in diameter. The 38 has some minor tightness issues near the chest when, e .g., washing my hands or reaching forward which the 40 doesn't. There's a little bit of looseness in the chest area on the 40 but I think it might be better trade off?

My chest 40", and shoulders 18-18.5" . I typically wear a 40 (42 jacket fits better I think) in SuSu.

In particular this is a cavour.co jacket and their "cut" is extended shoulder which also seems to suggest a 40 is more appropriate.

38 has 102cm chest, 46cm shoulder
40 has a 104cm chest, 47 cm shoulder.
waist is identical

38
38.jpg


40
40.jpg
 

joorinainen

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Thanks gents, I suppose my view of a good fit may differ - may I see what you consider a good fitting pair of pants?

These pants are the same measurements, with a different type of fabric - do you believe these are too slim? I think they're quite good in my opinion, which makes me wonder how much the fabric had influenced the fit, and what I can do now.

View attachment 1328258

View attachment 1328259


Here is the type of fit I'm trying to achieve:

View attachment 1328255View attachment 1328256
With your build i would go with higher rise and pleats. Fabric will definitely affect the fit. Heavier fabric drapes much better. Your grey trousers don't do justice for you and i would send them back.
 

Torzano

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I got suspender buttons put on this pair of suit pants. They are not symmetrical. Is it worth bring these back or should I live with it? How should they be? I read the innermost leather tan should be lined up with the pleat. This makes them very close to the side of the pants. I think I prefer the feel of the other one with both leather tabs on either side of the pleat or more on the front of the pants.
6B104E55-85C7-4359-A0F1-9F616C7D5344.jpeg
B5DB4436-206B-4C7A-B714-2B504DBB046E.jpeg
 

1up

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With your build i would go with higher rise and pleats. Fabric will definitely affect the fit. Heavier fabric drapes much better. Your grey trousers don't do justice for you and i would send them back.
Thanks for the feedback! Unfortunately not an option as these were MTM.

I'll have to make do, and take to a tailor to work with what fabric is available.

What changes would you recommend on this basis?
 

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