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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

tman87

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Not a tailor but the sleeves look short. They are sitting at your wrist while unfastened. Should be at least another 1-1.5” longer to minimize the sleeves riding up your arm when you raise your arm. The cuff diameter should be narrow enough to prevent the sleeves from dropping below your wrist when fastened.
So I'm convinced that I need to go to from at least a 33 to a 34. That would probably put me at 1.5-2" from the V or a little short of the thumb knuckle. Should I be considering 35 given supposed shrinkage? I'm going to buy a barrel cuff rather than French (really just wanted to check out the fit) and likely wear it without a jacket at times. Would that be too much material in the arms?
 

breakaway01

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So I'm convinced that I need to go to from at least a 33 to a 34. That would probably put me at 1.5-2" from the V or a little short of the thumb knuckle. Should I be considering 35 given supposed shrinkage? I'm going to buy a barrel cuff rather than French (really just wanted to check out the fit) and likely wear it without a jacket at times. Would that be too much material in the arms?
Hard to say for sure whether you should go one or two more inches if we have no idea how much the sleeves will shrink. If the picture you posted was a 33” sleeve then you could go to 35 if you’re expecting the sleeves to shrink 0.5-1”.
 

Scarlatti

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Dear SF community,

I'd appreciate some feedback on how to improve the fit of these trousers. There seems to be excess material below the waistband, and the area below the seat and the thigh obviously need some improvement. So I'm thinking that backrise should be reduced at the waistband and increased at the seat. But will this solve all problems?

1322787

1322788
 

Fraussie

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Hi guys

So I've got a reasonably well fitted high-rise suit trouser pattern locked in with Luxire. I asked them to make me a pair of chinos with a lower rise (lower by 2 inches at the front). I also asked to make the thigh circumference a bit slimmer - they reduced by 0.75" (so 1.5" total).

This is the fit I got: massive wedgy... Pretty uncomfortable.

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Here's a comparison between these low rise chinos and the suit trousers they were based on:
1323436

In your opinion, what has gone wrong here?
 

1up

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Have a custom S&M shirt that has this ridge/bunching along the traps?

I can't figure out what to adjust to fix it, and I don't have that problem with other shirts (this was a copy of a custom shirt from another vendor). Maybe an issue with the yoke?

First pic has the sleeve cuffs buttoned up, second is with them unbuttoned (I think my sleeves are a touch short, open to suggestions)

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It extends around the back too:

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Some other pics over the overall ft:
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Don't mind the ill-fitting pants, one of my earlier MTM iterations that I feel obligated to make use of.
 
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Despos

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Looks like the yoke isn't sitting on your shoulder properly. Too much slope on the front shoulder and you have very forward shoulders that should be adjusted for. They probably copied the measurements form your sample shirt but the angles and slopes are off on this one.
Really commented on this to ask what kettle you have on the counter? See you use a Chemex.
 

Alocin

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Looks like the yoke isn't sitting on your shoulder properly. Too much slope on the front shoulder and you have very forward shoulders that should be adjusted for. They probably copied the measurements form your sample shirt but the angles and slopes are off on this one.
Really commented on this to ask what kettle you have on the counter? See you use a Chemex.
Looks like a Bodum but I can’t confirm without seeing the handle.
 
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benjamin831

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I sized up on this eidos sport coat and the shoulders are a little too wide. Let me know if you think they are terrible and I should sell. I’m on the fence.
If anything it looks like your deltoids are too large for the sleevehead. Sell it.
 

Despos

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I sized up on this eidos sport coat and the shoulders are a little too wide. Let me know if you think they are terrible and I should sell. I’m on the fence.
The pictures don't show anything to diagnose from. If the fold in the upper sleeve (divots) is the problem, it is not related to the shoulders being too wide. This has been discussed multiple times. You can search for "divots"
 

1up

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It is! A Bodum Melior Gooseneck, was approximately $20USD and works great.

Thank you for the advice fellas, I probably won't sell it, but maybe ask them for suggestions with emphasis on looking at the yoke..

I don't mind wearing imperfect garments, I mean look at my pants :)
 

buddyfuzz

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Hi everyone,

Been refining my MtM pattern, and I'm wondering if anyone can advise on some creasing/breaking on the right hand side by my armpit. I think it's possibly to do with my dropped shoulder, although I think I also have forward shoulders, so that may contribute. It's not that easy to photograph, and does look worse in real life. Also, possibly some sleeve pitch issues? Hopefully Despos may have some insight! I've put a main picture in, and attached quite a few, including some without the jacket in case it helps with figuration etc. At the moment, I have both my shoulders set to slightly square, and also slight forward shoulder, as well as a slightly prominent chest. Any other fit advice/critique welcome too!

Ps. Please ignore the styling, it's just a test garment for fit and to try out various different styling options (I would not actually order a worsted 3r2 wide peak lapel with patch pockets currently).

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papado

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Hi everyone,

Been refining my MtM pattern, and I'm wondering if anyone can advise on some creasing/breaking on the right hand side by my armpit. I think it's possibly to do with my dropped shoulder, although I think I also have forward shoulders, so that may contribute. It's not that easy to photograph, and does look worse in real life. Also, possibly some sleeve pitch issues? Hopefully Despos may have some insight! I've put a main picture in, and attached quite a few, including some without the jacket in case it helps with figuration etc. At the moment, I have both my shoulders set to slightly square, and also slight forward shoulder, as well as a slightly prominent chest. Any other fit advice/critique welcome too!

Ps. Please ignore the styling, it's just a test garment for fit and to try out various different styling options (I would not actually order a worsted 3r2 wide peak lapel with patch pockets currently).
I will let the real tailors confirm but I have the same issue and it's caused by my dropped right shoulder and the waterfall effects from that difference.
 

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