The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. champ49er

    champ49er Member

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    I just picked up two of these sport coats. The darker one is a navy blue and based on what I read on the forum, a navy blue is the suggested first sport coat. I got that lighter color one to go with my black pants. I got measured between a 43 and 44, but both of these are 42L. I tried on the 44L, but it looked big in the front. I'm planning on lengthening the sleeves. How is the fit on both of these?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    the balance of the jacket is good.
    the shoulders need to be sloped 1/2 inch.
    you have a right low shoulder. that must be
    taken care of at the cutting.
    total jacket length should be 1 inch longer.
    sleeves look a bit short. but thats to your taste.
    the shaping of the waist is too high.
    the trousers right hip is higher.


    an after thought. when you send the changes for the next order,
    send them the 4 photos of the jacket and the front view of the trousers.







    for more information go to the tutorials on these subjects.
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2012
  3. irgator04

    irgator04 Well-Known Member

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    This is a 44R Fitzgerald from BB. I feel like there is too much material around my waist or am I just being to picky. The shoulders and back feel good. Please let me know what you think.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    2 yards of 60" wide cloth
     
  5. Liam O

    Liam O Senior member

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    Thats it?

    Thank you, just saved me about 100 bucks.
     
  6. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    cant tell much from that photo. but there seems to be a waist shaping there.
    that the shoulders feel good is great. but we cant see much else.
     
  7. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    hey champ
    are you sure that the shoulders are comfortable? they appear a bit tight.
    and they never get more loose. so be sure of comfort, alter it and its yours.
    some manufactures do make size 43. the sides can be altered.
     
  8. irgator04

    irgator04 Well-Known Member

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    Waist shaping?

    The shoulders do feel good. I will take better pictures and post them.
     
  9. irgator04

    irgator04 Well-Known Member

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    What would they do to alter the sides? The first lady that helped me at BB mentioned doing something to the sides but then her boss took over and said I looked good. My fiancee thinks I look good! lol
     
  10. benjamin831

    benjamin831 Senior member

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    Hi,

    I'm having a little trouble with this particular jacket I have. This jacket fits me immaculately throughout, partly aided by nature of H&S Crispaire wool. Lately, however, this tiny divot started developing on both of my sleeve heads. I'm not sure exactly what's going on but I highly doubt its because the shoulders are too wide/narrow since this never existed before.

    I have been working out again lately so my body may have changed. However, none of my other jackets by Chan has developed the same problem.

    Any clues? Can it be remedied?

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2012
  11. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    but you could have had 100 bucks worth of high class shoe polishing cloth.
     
  12. CousinDonuts

    CousinDonuts Senior member

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    I just had a standard issue navy suit delivered from Suit Supply's S/S collection. This is my 2nd purchase from them. The first was charcoal from the F/W collection which I love. So I ordered this navy from the S/S collection in the same size. The shoulder fit and length is the same. The button point is in the exact same spot. However, something feels different about the drape. It is looser from the armpits on down. The hips flare. Whereas I didn't touch the charcoal, I will need to have my tailor make some adjustments to this one. The armholes are also either slightly lower, or a little bigger. It is definitely not as snug and my first impression was it was too big, whereas the charcoal felt great from the first time I put it on.

    I'm interested to hear what you guys think about this fit. I have broad shoulders then am slim the rest of the way down, so if I trim the body starting near the armpits down to the waist and hips, am I looking at chopping this thing so much that I'm possibly altering the shape to the point it's going to look odd when all is said and done? (or, am I over analyzing this?) Thanks in advance.

    Robo pose:
    [​IMG]

    Pinching about 3 inches of material in the back to get the taper to about what I like (don't worry about how I pulled the quarters at this point:
    [​IMG]


    Yeah, button stance is higher than some approve, but I like it because my build is slender enough to not need a deep gorge.
     
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2012
  13. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Have it slimmed down if you like. Lay the jacket flat on a table and measure from the front edge to the center back seam at the waist point where the button is. You will know if the grey jacket and this are the same size or if the navy is bigger.

    Button point looks too high for my taste.
     
  14. barrelntrigger

    barrelntrigger Senior member

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    Wow! What a skinny suit! I really like the fit. It reminds me of something I would see in an anime. However, it looks very uncomfortably tight especially under the lapel. Are the shoulders/chest area tight as well? To me, as long as the shoulders, chest, lats, groin areas are comfortable, you can wear it as a fashion statement!
     
  15. barrelntrigger

    barrelntrigger Senior member

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    Do you happen to be a weight lifter? It seems like we have similar shoulders builds. When I try on OTR jackets, the shoulders always seems to "puffer" a bit instead of forming that clean contour. That's because our shoulders are too round (muscular) and the jackets has way too much padding; hence, that pinched look in the shoulders. I would take it to the tailor and tell him/her to take out as much shoulder padding as possible and mold it around your shoulders (if that's possible) to get rid of that "pinching shoulders". Hopefully that works.

    Also, I think the jacket is a few inches too long. The sleeves needs to be shortened. There could be more waist suppression. Other than those areas, I think it's a lovely jacket.
     

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