The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[StartingStyle]

Hello, I think this will be the right place for my question. I got my first order from Luxire and I have to dial in some changes. Nevertheless I wanted to ask some experts besides Luxire what to change. My stats for reference 182cm , 78kg.

Maybe some of you could help me out as I’m not an expert on what to change. I think I need to widen the legs below the knee to the foot width. Thanks in advance

 

[Gusgt]

Hello, I think this will be the right place for my question. I got my first order from Luxire and I have to dial in some changes. Nevertheless I wanted to ask some experts besides Luxire what to change. My stats for reference 182cm , 78kg.

Maybe some of you could help me out as I’m not an expert on what to change. I think I need to widen the legs below the knee to the foot width. Thanks in advance

Hi there!
I’m not a tailor, but I have gone through several iterations of pants via Luxire.

Firstly, keep in mind that cotton won’t drape very well regardless.
Yes, you’r right about the leg opening - could definately be wider. This will make the pant drape better over your calfs and the balance will overall be better.

Your main issue as I see it, is the fit around the seat. You need more room here. Not necessarily horizontaly, but vertically. I’d say decrease the inseam at crotch (dropping the point were all the seams meet bellow your body at crotch) and increase back rise at crotch. I’m sure Luxire will tell you this aswell. Maybe scoop the seat a bit aswell.
Unfortunately, the seat fit is the hardest to get right, and count on making another couple of pants before you’ll see really good resultat there.
The front looks good. Pleats sit nicely.
Good luck!

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

I recently took delivery of a sport coat from John Di Pietro, a local tailor whom I have begun working with. I'm very pleased with how it feels when I wear it and am largely satisfied with its styling, but having worn it more, I've noticed some wrinkling at the right shoulder and perhaps some at the left suggesting a possible need of further work.

I'll be visiting Mr. Di Pietro next Wednesday afternoon for some waistcoats and intend to address the matter with him then, but I'd like to have some more informed, disinterested advice so that I can do so sensibly.

That I'm holding my iPhone up in front of me might make this unhelpful, but it might at least be taken as context. (Yes, that's a miniature pineapple on my lapel, you see I was... … I'm just weird, okay?)

This is my left shoulder; if one looks between the pocket square and seem where the sleeve joins the body, a slight bulge and accompany dip are visible. This might be normal, but I'm not quite well enough acquainted with how a suit should look while worn to judge.

This is my right shoulder, where I'm more confident that there is a problem. There's a rather deep wrinkle from near where the bottom of the sleeve joins the shoulder toward the lapel. I think that this might owe to my having a low right shoulder, which Mr. Di Pietro noted when fitting my waistcoats. This seems corroborated by the fact that I can mitigate the deformation if I force my shoulder up and back; this is true for the left shoulder as well, but it takes a much smaller movement to accomplish it.

I would like to know if this is a genuine problem, its nature and if it is a correctable one. (I know that the shirt fits awkwardly; its an old internet made-to-measure piece that I fumbled around unaided measuring myself for; it is is slated for eventual replacement)

 

[Sfroide3]

Here is my first shirt from proper cloth. Sizing was done in the NYC showroom. Sleeves are too short. Is there anyway to reduce that sleeve twist ? Any other suggestion of changes before I contact them for a remake.

Thanks a lot for your help.

 

[oscarman]

Hi

I just picked up this MTM suit. Overall I think the fit was quite good, but I don't like the wrinkles below right shoulder. What do you think? Is worth going to tailor and see if they can fix it?

Many thanks

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

My nervous eagerness has overridden my ordinary sense of self-restraint and denial, so I'm going to supplement my request a few posts above for comment on the fit of my new taupe sport coat by John Di Pietro with further pictures, albeit lousy ones, taken from behind. I think that I detect some rippling that are consistent with a fault in the fit of the shoulders that I attributed the above issues to.

I'm mostly nervous that correction might require a serious alteration or might be impossible and that I might be missing something. If nothing else, I'd feel at ease

better​

knowing what I'm talking about.

This is what I look like from behind when standing unrealistically still. (A tailor recently complimented me for my skill at standing still) My right shoulder shows the likeliest sign of necessary alteration, as it did above.

I think that I see slightly more distortion at right, again, with my arms raised, but this much movement seems to diminish the difference. The difference between sides in the rippling immediately next to where the sleeve meets the back seems potentially instructive.

I never actually run in real life.

 

[ter1413]

I recently took delivery of a sport coat from John Di Pietro, a local tailor whom I have begun working with. I'm very pleased with how it feels when I wear it and am largely satisfied with its styling, but having worn it more, I've noticed some wrinkling at the right shoulder and perhaps some at the left suggesting a possible need of further work.

I'll be visiting Mr. Di Pietro next Wednesday afternoon for some waistcoats and intend to address the matter with him then, but I'd like to have some more informed, disinterested advice so that I can do so sensibly.

View attachment 1221248

That I'm holding my iPhone up in front of me might make this unhelpful, but it might at least be taken as context. (Yes, that's a miniature pineapple on my lapel, you see I was... … I'm just weird, okay?)

View attachment 1221249

This is my left shoulder; if one looks between the pocket square and seem where the sleeve joins the body, a slight bulge and accompany dip are visible. This might be normal, but I'm not quite well enough acquainted with how a suit should look while worn to judge.

View attachment 1221250

This is my right shoulder, where I'm more confident that there is a problem. There's a rather deep wrinkle from near where the bottom of the sleeve joins the shoulder toward the lapel. I think that this might owe to my having a low right shoulder, which Mr. Di Pietro noted when fitting my waistcoats. This seems corroborated by the fact that I can mitigate the deformation if I force my shoulder up and back; this is true for the left shoulder as well, but it takes a much smaller movement to accomplish it.

I would like to know if this is a genuine problem, its nature and if it is a correctable one. (I know that the shirt fits awkwardly; its an old internet made-to-measure piece that I fumbled around unaided measuring myself for; it is is slated for eventual replacement)

Try to have someone take a pic(s) or retake pics with the pineapple, PS, etc. Just a plain pic without all the "stuff".

 

[ter1413]

Here is my first shirt from proper cloth. Sizing was done in the NYC showroom. Sleeves are too short. Is there anyway to reduce that sleeve twist ? Any other suggestion of changes before I contact them for a remake.

Thanks a lot for your help.

Sleeves are too SHORT? After ironing the shirt, they may be just right.

 

[StartingStyle]

Luxire told me the following things. Could you give me a statement whether these are the right changes or not.
From my perspective they addressed the right things.

Thanks in advance

Decrease waist 1" in circumference.

• To clean the seat, Decrease inseam at crotch by 0.5" and adjust back rise accordingly.
• To remove the break at the knee, Increase calf by 0.5" according to new pattern technique.

 

[lngn2]

Ca

My nervous eagerness has overridden my ordinary sense of self-restraint and denial, so I'm going to supplement my request a few posts above for comment on the fit of my new taupe sport coat by John Di Pietro with further pictures, albeit lousy ones, taken from behind. I think that I detect some rippling that are consistent with a fault in the fit of the shoulders that I attributed the above issues to.

I'm mostly nervous that correction might require a serious alteration or might be impossible and that I might be missing something. If nothing else, I'd feel at ease

better​

knowing what I'm talking about.

View attachment 1224374

This is what I look like from behind when standing unrealistically still. (A tailor recently complimented me for my skill at standing still) My right shoulder shows the likeliest sign of necessary alteration, as it did above.

View attachment 1224373

I think that I see slightly more distortion at right, again, with my arms raised, but this much movement seems to diminish the difference. The difference between sides in the rippling immediately next to where the sleeve meets the back seems potentially instructive.

View attachment 1224372

I never actually run in real life.

One can't judge the fit based on photos of you pretending to run! Best post some full length (front and back) in decent lighting if you want helpful comments. My guess? 1. Shoulder angle is wrong 2. Excess around the armhole and chest which needs clearing.

 

[lngn2]

I have picked up a jacket that fits well across the shoulders point-to-point but is too snug through the body - all the way from armhole to vents - so will be let out by around 1/2" on each side seam. However, the other issue is that the lower front edges of the armholes cut into me. Is the adjustment to the side seams likely to help alleviate the tightness at the lower front of the armhole to any extent?

I have tried pinning other jackets along the side seams to make them smaller and it does to some degree replicate the tightness at the front of the armpit that I feel here. It does feel as though the tightness across the back is pulling the armhole back into my body, hence the tightness at the front. I don’t think the armholes are too small per se, but they do need to be allowed to shift forward a little to avoid cutting into me at the front of my armpits.

View attachment 1217625

I was discussing roughly the same issue during a fitting the other day - the resolution in that particular case was to scoop out a little at the front of the scye and to reduce the same at the forepart and side body seam so as to maintain the same overall size.

 

[Despos]

Armhole is cutting into,you when iy

I have picked up a jacket that fits well across the shoulders point-to-point but is too snug through the body - all the way from armhole to vents - so will be let out by around 1/2" on each side seam. However, the other issue is that the lower front edges of the armholes cut into me. Is the adjustment to the side seams likely to help alleviate the tightness at the lower front of the armhole to any extent?

I have tried pinning other jackets along the side seams to make them smaller and it does to some degree replicate the tightness at the front of the armpit that I feel here. It does feel as though the tightness across the back is pulling the armhole back into my body, hence the tightness at the front. I don’t think the armholes are too small per se, but they do need to be allowed to shift forward a little to avoid cutting into me at the front of my armpits.

View attachment 1217625

To relieve the feeling at the front of the armhole try lifting the jacket shoulder up, making the armhole higher. Pinch the shoulder and raise it until you don't feel the armhole touching. Another experiment is to take a straight pin and pin the center back seam .25" on each side of the seam, half inch total, just below where the under collar and the center back seam meet. You are pinning vertically, not horizontally along the center back seam, making the jacket narrower at that point. Try it on with the pin in place and see if it feels different. This changes the position where the armhole touches you and might help.
Let the side body out just below the armhole to allow the jacket/armhole to move forward. Don't reduce the front of the armhole. Suggesting the easiest and least costly adjustments.

 

[Despos]

Luxire told me the following things. Could you give me a statement whether these are the right changes or not.
From my perspective they addressed the right things.

Thanks in advance

Decrease waist 1" in circumference.

• To clean the seat, Decrease inseam at crotch by 0.5" and adjust back rise accordingly.
• To remove the break at the knee, Increase calf by 0.5" according to new pattern technique.

Suggestions are a waste of time. Picture shows a wedgie at lower seat. Let out the crotch 1" and deepen the lower curve of the seat a bit. They are saying to make the rise longer, this won't help enough. I would go 1" bigger at knee because it is easy to take in but not let out.
Hitting on your calf is a problem changing measurements won't help that much. The pattern is flawed. Sorry to be negative but trying to save you time, money and aggravation.

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

Ca
One can't judge the fit based on photos of you pretending to run! Best post some full length (front and back) in decent lighting if you want helpful comments. My guess? 1. Shoulder angle is wrong 2. Excess around the armhole and chest which needs clearing.

Thank you and fair enough, I should have known better from the start and used my whole ass. I'm inclined, within my limits, to agree about assessment about excess around the chest as I can mitigate the rippling there by pulling toward inward from the lapel.

After I got home today, I tried to jerry-rig a better pair of images that I hope are better. (They at least demonstrate that I could do with a shave and trim)

From the front

From the rear (I always had a slight sway in my rear-angle shots; I don't know why) I notice a very slight 'hump' on the right shoulder, which I've begun noticing a little lately now that I've been trying to scrutinize fits a little more closely.

 

[txm22]

So these are Luxire trousers that I recently ordered. I think I'm getting close to having my pattern down, but obviously, there are a few remaining issues. I will increase the hip measurement on my next order.

However, there is a problem with the way the trousers hang in the front that I can't quite identify, and is somewhat hard to capture in pictures. At the crotch, the inner thigh appears to have some pulling, which makes the trousers appear taut. I don't think I need more room in the thigh, and I'm not sure that increasing the hip measurement will release this tension, as it feels more like vertical pulling. Any advise for trouser adjustments would be appreciated.

Spoiler: Additional Pictures