The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[alfredt]

Hi everyone,

I posted the below in the Luxire thread which sparked some debate but did not get me any useful information for what to adjust. Hoping you can offer some valuable input!

I ordered a first iteration of cotton trial trousers from Luxire which came in two days ago. I sent in measurements based on a well fitting wool Suitsupply MTM pair, adjusted for a higher rise.

I had planned on two or three iterations of trial trousers to dial in the fit and while there are certainly issues with this first pair I think it’s a good start.

Before I order a second iteration I’d love to hear your input on what should be changed. I’ve asked the same from Luxire and will update you on their suggestions when they respond.

So without further ado, here they are:

For reference, I am 6’6” and 210 lbs.

The obvious is the waist which is too big, I have the side adjusters pulled all the way tight in these photos so I think the next pair should be 1.25 inches smaller in the waist.

There is also a large excess of fabric in the seat, or hip measurement. I believe the next pair should be ~1.75 inches smaller here. Would you agree based on the photos? I don’t have any previous experience with pleats so I’m not sure what effect they have but I feel I can easily grab some excess fabric in the back without pulling the pleats apart.

Now the other issues I’m not sure how to fix. In the rear there is bunching of fabric on the upper leg below the seat. Can this be solved by ‘scooping the seat’ as I saw suggested elsewhere? I’m worried about how this would affect the rear rise which I believe is ok on this pair? I obviously don’t want it to become too tight in the seat area.

Another issue is the bunching at and below the knee which is most obvious from the front and side shots. I believe these to be caused (in part) by my forward leaning posture and overextension of my knees. Increasing the knee and maybe ankle measurements would probably hide this but are there other ways to fix the underlying issue? The leg opening on this pair is 7.75 inches.

Very interested to hear what you suggest is changed in my pattern so I can order the next pair.

Thanks a ton!

 

[whitefisk]

Hello

Looking for feedback on the jacket fit and wondering if the pattern aligned correctly? Seems like below the buttoning point the vertical lines are coming to a Vee but the jacket's balance doesnt seem off to me

Thank you for the advice

 

[vim147]

Whats your thoughts on putting darts on jeans for waist alteration ?
My weight seems to fluctuate around 1-1.5 inch on waist.

 

[ChancellorGeneBlock]

Hello, I just received my suit from Black Lapel, and I was wondering what y'all think about it.

I reached out for their feedback, and they suggested to lengthen the sleeves, take in the waist, and have a tailor fix the collar roll. However, I am concerned regarding the fit in the upper back/upper chest. There are a lot of wrinkles forming between my shoulder blades, and I don't think the lapels lay flat on my chest. Is the fix as simple as letting a tailor let out the back, or will I need to send it back for a remake?

 

[1up]

Jacket is a mess, will probably need a remake - way too short.

 

[msanchez0125]

Hey guys, this is my first fitting on a MTM suit. My tailor took measurements, and suit was made in London. The leg will be made fuller and cuffs will be added, however the jacket looks way too long. The jacket is the same 28.5 inches in the back as my other jackets, but this was supposedly cut with my erect posture in mind, so it has more length in the front. What do you think?

 

[houselight]

hey folks, sorry for the cross post:

can i get a fit-check on this? picked it up last minute for a (casual) wedding after some weight gain(z) rendered my go to suit unwearable. I know the lapels are dated, and I know the sleeves/pants are too long. I feel its a bit boxier than need be, any suggestions here? thanks!

 

[macjedi]

hey folks, sorry for the cross post:

can i get a fit-check on this? picked it up last minute for a (casual) wedding after some weight gain(z) rendered my go to suit unwearable. I know the lapels are dated, and I know the sleeves/pants are too long. I feel its a bit boxier than need be, any suggestions here? thanks!

I think the jacket looks pretty good for OTR, but it needs a good pressing. I'd definitely take in the waist and shorten the sleeves. I'd also try putting the flaps inside the pocket for a cleaner look.

 

[othertravel]

hey folks, sorry for the cross post:

can i get a fit-check on this? picked it up last minute for a (casual) wedding after some weight gain(z) rendered my go to suit unwearable. I know the lapels are dated, and I know the sleeves/pants are too long. I feel its a bit boxier than need be, any suggestions here? thanks!

The lapels aren't dated. Looks decent!

 

[dauster]

Should I buy this Isaia jacket ? What do you guys think? $4,100 for RTW is quite a lot but really like the fit and style.

 

[macjedi]

View attachment 1195760
Should I buy this Isaia jacket ? What do you guys think? $4,100 for RTW is quite a lot but really like the fit and style.

I wouldn't … especially at that price … you could do so much better. It also looks too short for you. The jacket should cover your rear and the buttoning point should be at your natural waist.

 

[beargonefishing]

View attachment 1195760
Should I buy this Isaia jacket ? What do you guys think? $4,100 for RTW is quite a lot but really like the fit and style.

It does look short, and possibly too tight.

 

[dauster]

Got seems like I got too caught up in the cool vibe in the store... also seems like I have school my eye about fit better. Looking it at again you guys are right thanks

It does look short, and possibly too tight.

 

[houselight]

I think the jacket looks pretty good for OTR, but it needs a good pressing. I'd definitely take in the waist and shorten the sleeves. I'd also try putting the flaps inside the pocket for a cleaner look.

The lapels aren't dated. Looks decent!

thanks for the replies fellas. Do I just ask to "have the waist taken in" at the tailor? I have minimal experience with alterations. I ask because it seems to me that part that is boxiest is just above the waist along the torso; I think this is most obvious in the photo from the back. It already nips a bit at where it buttons. Does that make sense?

 

[macjedi]

thanks for the replies fellas. Do I just ask to "have the waist taken in" at the tailor? I have minimal experience with alterations. I ask because it seems to me that part that is boxiest is just above the waist along the torso; I think this is most obvious in the photo from the back. It already nips a bit at where it buttons. Does that make sense?

Yeah, "have the waist taken in" or "nip the waist" are both terms the tailor should understand. I'd discuss the fit with your tailor and ask for recommendations. My tailor usually pins the waist and works up and down the seam to achieve a comfortable, but more fitted silhouette. You just want to add some shape, but not overdo it.

Here's some light reading that might help…

A Basic Guide on Alterations

The easiest way to improve your wardrobe is to take things to the alterations tailor. Since clothes are designed for...

putthison.com

Q and Answer: How Much Can My Clothes Be Altered?

Mario writes us to ask: When you’re hunting for used quality clothing, you’re bound to come across pieces that are...

putthison.com

How a Suit Jacket or Sport Coat Should Fit

A couple of weeks ago, I said that there are different schools of thought on how a jacket should fit,...

putthison.com

Three Basic Points of Fit: Waist, Shoulder & Length

I want to highlight a few fit mistakes I see all too often on men in the street – and...

putthison.com

Understanding a Suit’s Silhouette

It’s common to hear people describe a suit’s silhouette in terms of its nationality. Suits are described as being American,...

putthison.com

Cheers and good luck!