The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Aloysius16]

I’ve never understood this. On which seam is the alteration made and how is it possible to add length to the rise to do this? I fear I am misunderstanding the nature of the change.

 

[Despos]

Will try to explain what is in the picture I posted. This is a side view of joining the front panel to the back panel of the trouser. The two V's on the right panel are the back darts and the horizontal line below the darts is the back pocket.
The white line to the left is the front edge of the fly. the lower small line dissecting that line is the bottom of the fly where the zipper would end (or start). The lower curve is the crotch and the line to the right is the seat/waist seam in the center of the back of the trouser. The seam that joins the two back panels between the back pockets. When you measure the original line from the top of the waistband in front all the way along the seam to the waistband in the back and then measure again on the new adjusted line, the new line is longer which equates to more room.

 

[dfagdfsh]

where is the seam allowance to adjust the seat curve typically stored?

 

[Despos]

This is reducing/taking in the seat. It has two effects. Reducing the cloth across the seat and increasing the length of the seat seam or back rise (to use SF lingo).
The outlet to let out the seat is on this seam on the inside of the trouser.
Is that what you were asking?

 

[dfagdfsh]

I think so -- if I want the seat to be let out, the fabric is located at the center seat seam? or on the inseam?

 

[Despos]

The center back seam. From the top the trouser to the crotch, the seam between the two back pockets

 

[Aloysius16]

My new suit jacket is a little too big around the chest and so there is some slight folding of the cloth under the arms where there is looseness. I would like to take it in a little in this area but not make the back any tighter. I thought I could ask for it to be taken in about 1cm along the side seams from just below the arm-hole to just above the waist (a run of about 4 inches), and for this alteration to mostly or entirely take in cloth from the front part (side panel) and little or none from the back.

However my tailor insists this isn’t possible or simple as:

A. The alteration cannot take more from the front. The cloth has to be taken in either side of the seam in equal amounts.

B. The alteration would require the sleeves to be removed and reshaped.

Are either of both of these responses correct?

 

[classicalthunde]

Quick question: What is the functional difference between a center vent and side vents, is one better for a particular body type or is it purely preference? I'm heavy set with a barrel chest and love handles with no bum, but i do put my hands in my pockets a lot...

I'm looking to do a custom ivy-style blazer and going back and forth between getting a center hook-vent per the style or getting side vents, which is what all my other suits/jackets have...

 

[Despos]

Putting your hands in trouser pockets will pull the center vent open and you see the back of the trouser. Side vents pull the side body open but the back panel stays and covers the trouser. Side vents are more functional in this regard.
If you want to stay true to ivy style then you sacrifice function over form.

 

[classicalthunde]

Putting your hands in trouser pockets will pull the center vent open and you see the back of the trouser. Side vents pull the side body open but the back panel stays and covers the trouser. Side vents are more functional in this regard.
If you want to stay true to ivy style then you sacrifice function over form.

thanks, thats what i thought...id much rather have functionality than form

 

[HLR182]

Would appreciate some fit feedback on this jacket. It feels a little tight in the arms and back and motion is somewhat restricted when I lift my arms. Is this a fixable jacket or a return? Thanks

 

[othertravel]

Looks too small and short. Try sizing up?

 

[paxonus]

Would appreciate some fit feedback on this jacket. It feels a little tight in the arms and back and motion is somewhat restricted when I lift my arms. Is this a fixable jacket or a return? Thanks View attachment 1191803 View attachment 1191803 View attachment 1191805 View attachment 1191806 View attachment 1191807

The shoulder width looks about right, but you could probably go up 1 size. The problem will be the waist and length may still be off. Going up 1 size in the same jacket will probably not work since it would still need to be let out. You need a fuller cut.

 

[HLR182]

Looks too small and short. Try sizing up?

The shoulder width looks about right, but you could probably go up 1 size. The problem will be the waist and length may still be off. Going up 1 size in the same jacket will probably not work since it would still need to be let out. You need a fuller cut.

It's a regular 44 RLPL. I'm surprised it seems short as I am not tall. Issue is that there are only limited sizes available, no 46. The pants fit fine, but I am worried that a tailor may not be able to make this jacket fit correctly. If I need to return, I can do so, just cant exchange for a 46r. I have difficulty finding suits that fit. Thank you.

 

[paxonus]

It's a regular 44 RLPL. I'm surprised it seems short as I am not tall. Issue is that there are only limited sizes available, no 46. The pants fit fine, but I am worried that a tailor may not be able to make this jacket fit correctly. If I need to return, I can do so, just cant exchange for a 46r. I have difficulty finding suits that fit. Thank you.

Have you tried Brooks Brothers Madison cut?