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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Jmay419

    Jmay419 New Member

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    It won't specifically say that it is done by Isaia. I have three of these suits due to family that work within Saks. These suits do in fact come from Isaia; they come in great fabrics but lower end Isaia construction.
     
  2. aglass

    aglass Well-Known Member

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    So, first time posting a fit on this site! Feel free to tear it to shreds. I apologize in advance for the poor iPhone pictures, but my camera just died. I just had this altered at a tailor's and I wanted to get some better eyes than mine on it. I'm planning on wearing it to a wedding:

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    The suit is a Brooks Brothers 41L Fitzgerald (thank you, Steve Smith!) - I'm typically a 40L, but the Fitz' shoulders are pretty small (this is 17.75 - I have 18' shoulders) so I sized up. To my untuned eye, it looks pretty good... FIRE AWAY!!!

    (Thanks!)
     
  3. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    You've been here 2 years and you think this is all possible? Lurk moar

    Jacket doesn't fit anywhere
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2012
  4. burningbright

    burningbright Senior member

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    Location:
    The City by the Lake
    

    I don't think I've made myself clear so I'll try again because it was a very busy day for me while I posted the photos and I'm wondering if, due to said busyness, that the one critical detail I left out will put this all into context.

    I am about to purchase another bespoke suit. The try-on in the photo was just to see if I would fall between a 42 and a 44 since the last suit was purchased last year and I'm in the process of dropping some weight. I haven't purchased the 42 try-on in the photo; I don't want the 42 try-on in the photo because I know it doesn't fit.

    I am simply looking from a hypothetical standpoint of what changes would need to be made to a 42 jacket for me in this instance. In the photos.

    The tailor who will be making my suit (a 3-piece Loro Piana) knows what they're doing, but I don't and so I'm simply asking for the feedback of the respected tailors on StyleForum as to what they are seeing when they look at the photos for my own personal education and gratification.

    For example, the rumples on the backs of the sleeves. Will rotating the sleeveheads correct the problem? The diagonal creases running towards the rear arm pits in the back photo: what's causing those? And so on and so forth. I just want to learn something and hopefully that desire doesn't make me daft. I've purchased from this tailor in the past and I know what kind of work they do and trust them, I just simply want to learn for myself and maybe any feedback given will help some of the other guys posting on here about what they are seeing in the mirror when they put a suit on that they have doubts about.

    Does that clear anything up and hopefully put an end to the lurk moar noob comments or is what I'm asking still crazy? If it is crazy, I'll just drop it and try and find some other resources that will help educate me.
     
  5. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Still crazy. You're wearing a jacket which is objectively too small in every aspect, so what you're asking is inane. If you want useful suggestions, find a jacket which fits reasonably well, take pics, and ask again. Or, just ask the tailor (whom you say you trust) when you're in the room and in front of the mirror. That person has the advantage of seeing you in three dimensions and in motion.

    TL/DR?: You're doing it wrong.
     
  6. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    this.
     
  7. hyt123

    hyt123 Senior member

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    The only thing this clears up is that you're still not getting it. Fit in a suit begins with the chest and shoulders. That's always the first step. There's no such thing as "let out the chest and let out the shoulders" because if you've got both of those problems in the same jacket then you've sized completely wrong, which in turn throws everything else off. Nothing else matters until you take the correct first step that lays the right foundation for everything else.

    When you've shoehorned yourself into a jacket that fits like a sausage casing, there isn't a tailor in the world that can tell for certain (especially off an internet picture) if the ripples in the sleeve are caused by a misrotated head or a shoulder seam on the verge of exploding.

    We ARE trying to educate you. You're just not listening.
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2012
  8. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

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    I think the very "first step" is the overall balance. It is off now and no one, even the most talented tailor in the world, could help.
     
  9. aglass

    aglass Well-Known Member

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    Feb 22, 2012
    Not to derail this epic conversation, but can anyone give me pointers on my fit? (from the last page)
     
  10. burningbright

    burningbright Senior member

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    The City by the Lake
    

    Well I'd hardly call comments akin to, "you're crazy" and "lurk moar" as educational. Your comments above about the shoulders and chest have been the most constructive because now I know that when both of those measurements are off that it will throw everything else off. I was trying to compartmentalize the different parts of the jacket without considering how they relate to other parts like the shoulders and chest.

    I'm new at this, having been a SW&D guy so I'm trying to learn how it all works and now I've got something to build off of so thanks for giving a good explanation of where I'm going wrong. I'll try getting some more information from the tailor when we meet for the actual fitting.
     
  11. hyt123

    hyt123 Senior member

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    So you'd be checking out a side view of yourself to ascertain balance first and foremost while ignoring the bowed lapels (which takes up fabric on the front of the jacket, practically guaranteeing a balance skewed to the rear) and the fact that you're about to bust the shoulder and side seams?

    [​IMG]

    Even balance can't be evaluated unless/until you're reasonably within the chest+shoulders ballpark.
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2012
  12. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

    Messages:
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    You're very argumentative. Again, post fitpics of a shrunken jacket that doesn't fit at all isn't a worthwhile exercise. You asked for help, now listen to the advice of others here.
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2012
  13. hyt123

    hyt123 Senior member

    Messages:
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    I'm not entirely sure what you expect to gain by trying on an off the rack jacket (properly fitting or not) when you say you're having a bespoke suit made. A proper bespoke tailor goes off your measurements, taken directly from your body (by him/herself or a trusted assistant). Chest and shoulder fit, balance, pocket size/position, and sleeve length are all givens and pretty much immutable if you want a jacket that looks good. The rest (lapel style/width, shoulder construction/expression, jacket length, waist suppression, etc.) depends on where your preferences fall on the fashion-forward*<-------->classic continuum and that's the only place where your tailor should need input from you.

    If you can't trust the tailor then find one you can. Get the process started and post progress pics here. You'll get far more valuable and constructive feedback than posting a picture of yourself in something several sizes wrong.

    *SF leans heavily on the "classic" end of the spectrum so you're not going to find much love for skinny lapels and short jackets around here.
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2012
  14. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    burningbright, I comprehend what you are asking but your approach to the subject is incorrect. You can't get there from here.
     
  15. LJubel328

    LJubel328 Senior member

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    Thank you Despos :worship:
     
  16. paradoxical3

    paradoxical3 Well-Known Member

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    Just got this in the mail, going to take it to my tailor to have him alter it. What should I ask him to do? I'm aware the sleeves need to be shortened and there is a collar gap, but what else? Some waist suppression maybe?

    The wrinkling of the arms is terrible right now because of how it was shipped to me (jammed in a USPS envelope).

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    Much appreciated.
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2012
  17. Keough1206

    Keough1206 Member

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    It's hard to tell with your arms like that.
     
  18. williamh

    williamh Member

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    I am not going to post my own opinion because I've noticed that people tend to agree with the owner of the suit and I do not want produce some kind of bias. I will say though, that I did not iron or steam it and I was impressed that it came straight out of the box relatively wrinkle free and that I don't think that my shirt sleeves are more excessively long than the jacket sleeves are short.

    Suggestions/criticism would be much appreciated.

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  19. williamh

    williamh Member

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    This is my first suit - MTM. I am not going to post my own opinion because I've noticed that people tend to agree with the owner of the suit and I do not want produce some kind of bias.

    Criticism/suggestions would be much appreciated.

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    Last edited: May 31, 2012
  20. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Whose arms and legs were they measuring?
     

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