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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. bdavro23

    bdavro23 Distinguished Member

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    I've been really into birdseye lately. You dont have a birdseye, do you? :)

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  2. MSpence

    MSpence New Member

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    Recently purchased a Samuelsohn 38R Suit OTR for my wedding this fall, I was planning on taking it to a local tailor this week to get his opinion on fit and alterations but wanted to ask here as well. I am 5'8" 160lb with a relatively athletic build. I was wondering if you guys thought this suit fit well and is worth altering or if I needed a different brand/fit. The jacket feels good other than the sleeves being too long. Thanks for your help. IMG_20190311_205405.jpg IMG_20190311_205411.jpg IMG_20190311_205417.jpg IMG_20190311_205423.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2019 at 4:55 PM

  3. Aloysius16

    Aloysius16 Senior Member

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    What might cause the ‘ridge’ around the base of the collar seen on this shirt? I have the problem with one particular mtm brand and don’t know what to request to resolve it (changing shoulder slope hasn’t helped, and adjusting for forward shoulder makes it worse still).

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  4. zabo358

    zabo358 Senior Member

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    I just recently had 10 custom shirts made by a local tailor. I am very happy with the overal fit, however my only concern is the cuff width. Is this to wide and does the cuff fall too far down my hand?

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  5. sebflynn

    sebflynn Well-Known Member

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  6. zabo358

    zabo358 Senior Member

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    Really you think they are too long? Here’s a photo with my arms by my sides, do you still feel the same way? I moved the button to far end of the open stitch so it closed the gap a tad.

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  7. sebflynn

    sebflynn Well-Known Member

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    I personally don't think the shirt cuff should touch your thumb,
     

  8. papado

    papado Senior Member

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    It looks really solid--for the jacket you'll need to shorten sleeves (obviously) and also fix the collar roll. There doesn't appear to be much if any room in the side seams to shape the jacket more but I think it looks good as is. Trouser just need a hem as well; don't look to wide or anything.
     

  9. Aquafortis

    Aquafortis Senior Member

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    I think the sleeve length looks pretty close, maybe just a tad long. However, before you go have them shortened, I would highly advise gently laundering and hang drying each shirt several times. Assuming they are cotton, the shirts will experience some natural shrinkage, and best to let that process happen before alterations.

    In one of your first photos with your arm bent holding up your phone, it's evident that there is not that much extra length in the sleeves, as the cuff is pulling back a bit from your hand. Allan Flusser's guideline states that shirt sleeves should be with enough extra length such that the cuffs do not pull back at all from the hand when the arm is extended, and that the cuff should be set at a circumference that will not allow it to fit over the base of the palm when the arms are hanging straight down, such that the cuffs rest on the very top of the first thumb bone - essentially as your cuffs are doing in this last photo.

    Of course, the variables come into play when wear a sport coat or suit jacket, as every jacket fits slightly differently (maybe unless all your jackets are true bespoke). There is also a personal preference of how much shirt cuff you like exposed from a jacket sleeve cuff. To generalize broadly, I think far too many men wear their suit and sport coat jacket sleeves too long.
     

  10. sebflynn

    sebflynn Well-Known Member

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    I just handed the jacket to my (new) tailor, he's nipping the waist and sorting out the back seam the role on the back of the neck he concluded was from the lapel not from a tight back, I have asked him to let the back shoulders out through as I do think that will solve the dents in the sleeve. Will post pictures once I get it back.
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2019 at 9:45 AM

  11. bdavro23

    bdavro23 Distinguished Member

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    :lurk:
     

  12. macjedi

    macjedi Senior Member

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    Greetings! I could use some help on selecting buttons…
    X-post…
     

  13. sebflynn

    sebflynn Well-Known Member

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    The whole suit looks pretty off, the sleeves obviously need to be done as do the trousers need to be hemmed these are standard but the trousers look like they're giving you a wedgie, there is tightness across the back a roll behind the collar and the jacket in my opinion is about an 1/2-1 inch too long.
    It's allot of work for a new suit, I would only consider a suit this far gone if you got it at a silly good price.
     

  14. gianm

    gianm Senior Member

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    Picked up a RTW linen suit from S&M. Looking for a fit critique to decide if I keep it. Excuse the tie knot. Trousers are unhemmed. I have uneven shoulders.

    Current concerns are jacket and sleeve length (touch long) and a slightly low buttoning position.

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  15. Aloysius16

    Aloysius16 Senior Member

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    It actually looks pretty close to perfect to my eyes. Back, shoulders and sleeves are very clean. The sleeves should be shortened by maybe 2cm but that’s pretty standard with OTR. The body length of the jacket and button position looks close to ideal for a classic length and is what I would like to get for myself. If you want a trendier fit you could choose the same size in a shorter fit (assuming this isn’t already an S) which will ‘likely be about 2cm shorter and the correct fit on your sleeves without needing alteration.

    The only possible issue is that the vents might kick out when you remove the basting stitches. I don’t know whether this would be due to tightness over your protruding seat or if it is caused by the back length.
     

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