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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Dingusberry

    Dingusberry Senior Member

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    Does anyone have experience increasing the width of a suit jacket/blazer with a tailor? I bought a suit two years ago, but I have gained 10 lbs since, so the jacket size needs to increase one size around the waist. Is this a difficult operation?
     

  2. johnross2007

    johnross2007 Active Member

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    Update: Black Lapel has offered to remake my jacket. I have taken the jacket to three different tailors in two cities who all refuse to adjust sleeve like at the shoulder. Because no tailor in my area is willing to do this, Black Lapel offered to remake the jacket. I'm very (and pleasantly) surprised that Black Lapel would remake the jacket just for sleeve length.

    On that note, since the jacket is being remade, I thought it might be worthwhile to get y'all's opinion on the jacket fit. I personally was completely happy with it (except for sleeve length), but trained eyes may see needed adjustments. Thank you in advance for any opinions offered, and thanks again for the advice already given! Also, please ignore the pants. Black Lapel already remade them with, among other things, a much higher rise.

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  3. Aloysius16

    Aloysius16 Senior Member

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    Fit could be worse I guess, and is fairly clean around the shoulders and back (especially). It is quite boxy looking but I dont know if your body shape will allow it to be much more fitted than this while remaining comfortable I would also say it is probably a little short (does it go as far as your crotch at the front?) and the balance looks off from the side picture (front lifting and opening out). If remaking they could address the length. The balance would be harder to change for most MTM but it would be worth pointing it out.
     

  4. johnross2007

    johnross2007 Active Member

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    I am relatively overweight, so I bet that's the case. I'll attach a picture from the same group of photos without the jacket on. I'm not sure what you mean by balance. How would I communicate that to BL? As for length, I would say it reaches just above the crotch.

    edit: added the promised but forgotten picture. The red was just to show BL where I wanted the rise for the remade pants.

    edit2: took my face out of the pic

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    Last edited: Nov 6, 2018

  5. beargonefishing

    beargonefishing Distinguished Member

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    I think you would also benefit with a much lower button stance, with the top button closer to your waist.
     

  6. Aloysius16

    Aloysius16 Senior Member

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    Whilst noting that I am not a tailor, the balance comment is related to the observation about button stance being too high. From the side, it looks like it needs more length at the front chest to get out over your chest and stomach. Given the lack of this length, the button rides up higher than it should and the quarters (the front part below the button) opens out forwards rather than lying flat. It may be exacerbated if your stance is more erect that in would be naturally. Try standing straighter, or even a little hunched, and see if the button position drops and the front lies flatter.

    These balance issues are often impossible for mtm companies to address in their systems. However it sounds as though you would certainly benefitting from lengthening the jacket and lowering the button stance. They could certainly do the first and perhaps also the second. Lowering the button stance without lengthening the jacket could risk the proportions looking odd.
     

  7. Aloysius16

    Aloysius16 Senior Member

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    i should also have mentioned that your should probably see if they can do anything about the collar roll y0u have.

    On the other hand, kudos to them for the clean back despite quite a significantly dropped shoulder.
     

  8. johnross2007

    johnross2007 Active Member

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    Here is my Black Lapel suit with remade pants, but original jacket. I took these so y'all could see the new pants, as well as give you better pictures of the jacket. I focused on having my natural, relaxed stance. I have a fairly erect stance. Note that the sleeves are the fault of tailoring, not Black Lapel.

    The rise is still not where I like it. I like it at the belly-button. Would belly-button be too high? I would like to avoid another pants remake if at all possible. What do y'all think?

    Here is the jacket advice so far, if I understand correctly:
    (1) lower button stance.
    (2) see if they can clean up the collar bump.
    (3) see if they can fix the balance.
    (4) slightly extend jacket length.

    edit: I'm not a fan of the non-suit sticking out above pants and below the jacket-button. Will lowering the button stance fix this?

    edit2: FYI, that's my fancy new Sam Hober tie. Love it!

    edit3: maybe the suspenders are doing weird things to the pants. If you think so, let me know and I'll retake the pictures with the suspenders more relaxed. The pants won't stay up without them though.

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  9. jonathanS

    jonathanS Senior Member

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    Ask for your money back. They need to remake the trousers as well. This is a disaster. You need a higher rise as well. It’s not just a bad jacket. Bad everything.

    Sorry but that’s the truth.
     

  10. Sir Kurokodairu

    Sir Kurokodairu New Member

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    Dear All,

    Please kindly critique my suit on style, fit, and whatever else. Truthful critique would be appreciated.
    20181107_162936.jpg 20181107_163134.jpg
    Full sets of photos in links in the section below.

    Camera & Photos
    • I have taken two sets of photos. The first set was taken in my room. Due to the lighting coming directly from above, shadows and creases were exaggerated a bit. My room is also small, so the photos were taken at merely 6 feet away, hence is be a bit distorted. These photos have better resolution to show details, so I've included them anyways.
      First Set of Photos
    • The second set were taken in a well-lit environment, hence the shadows and creases are more realistically represented here. The photos were taken about 12 feet away, hence the distortion is also much less.
      Second Set of Photos
    The Suit
    • This was a bespoke suit made with a tropical weight wool belonging to Dormeuil's Tropical Amadeus collection. It is quite lightweight at 8 oz/sqyd (240 g/sqm). The salesman explained to me that such a lightweight fabric suit would naturally result in more creases, if all else the same.
    • Very light shoulder padding. The tailor said it was "half a layer", whereas the full padding is something like three layers, as they called it. I have no better way to define it, but it feels very thin when I pinch it - feels something like 1/8".
    • Half-lined (front, upper back, and sleeves)
    Thank you very much for your feedback.
     

  11. Sir Kurokodairu

    Sir Kurokodairu New Member

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    My Main Concerns
    1. The rear shoulder has odd wrinkles/dimple that is exaggerated in this photo (shown below), but still apparent in a realistic lighting environment (as shown in the next photo). My tailor seems to be unable to do better, as he modified it but was only slightly improved. The salesman explained that this is due to the ultra-light shoulder padding and the narrow stance of the shoulder pads. He added that the lightweight fabric (8 oz) does not make the situation any easier to mitigate. True?
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    2. The backside can use more coverage – an extra inch or so. But the front side can have less of an increase – half an inch or so. I don’t want the front much longer than it is now, because I am not tall at 5’ 8.5”. It seems like the front is a little longer than the back (shown below), but I’ve already mentioned this during one of my fittings, and my tailor assured me that it was balanced. Does it look balanced to you, and is it a good idea to have a suit tailored so the backside is longer than the front?
      20181107_163002.jpg

    3. The seat and thigh can drape better, but I’m not sure if that’s due to over-tightness or simply because I’m lacking meat in the rear end, because when I intentionally push up the rear end, the fabric drapes better. I just worry that making it more spacious in the seat would just result in excessive sagging fabric.

    4. The lower leg area doesn’t drape that well either, but that might be mostly due to my calfs bowing out significantly more than other people.
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2018

  12. zr3rs

    zr3rs Senior Member

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    1. Your tailor has made the sleeve head too large or armhole too small and now cannot fit one into the other without wrinkles. You would need another tailor to assess whether that would be possible or not. I say: live with it

    2. The back is at least 2 inch too short. I know this is trendy now, but you will not get love for such a style here. Cover you ass. The front balance is slightly long, but perfectly acceptable, but you can make it slightly shorter (relatively) than it is now.

    3. Legs are too slim, both upper and lower. They will not drape better unless widened.

    4. Waist is too slim. You can see the tightness at the rear. Let it out.

    My impression is: this is tolerable as a modern fashion suit, but for anything flattering or classic, it will have to be remade.
     

  13. AmayaTaiyou

    AmayaTaiyou Member

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    Hey everyone, wanted the opinions of tailors here. I recently purchased a suit. After wearing it for a bit, I realized that the jacket sleeves were a tad bit short, around 1/2 inch shorter than what I would like it to be.

    Normally, I understand that if there is excess fabric tucked in at the end of the sleeve, a tailor can lengthen the sleeves. However, my only concern with that is the fact that this jacket has working buttons, meaning, if it was let out at the end of the sleeve, it could potentially throw the balance off since the buttons can not be moved.

    I've been informed that you can not lengthen through the shoulder due to there not being excess fabric. I wanted to know if lengthening through the shoulder was possible if I brought the excess fabric along, as this suit came with a few pieces of spare fabric.

    Thanks everyone!
     

  14. SimonC

    SimonC Distinguished Member

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    I have never seen, and cannot imagine the mechanics of, adding extra fabric at the sleevehead - if there’s not enough in there to let out already then any addition would be visible where sewn on the end.

    Half an inch is enough you may be able to just let it out at the sleeve end without marooning the buttons halfway to your elbow. Otherwise - are they all functioning? Often only the first two are, so a new functional buttonhole can be added to the lengthened sleeve and the farthest sham buttonhole can be unpicked and removed.
     

  15. Andy_00

    Andy_00 Senior Member

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    Is it possible to take in the front chest area of a jacket in the area marked in the photo which includes the lower part of the armhole? I have a dropped forward shoulder on one side that tends to cause this bowing and creasing of the canvas. I understand it is a job for a skilled tailor as it involves the armhole, but is it a feasible alteration?


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