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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    You need to have the tailor raise and shorten the collar. 102 looks better
     

  2. AmayaTaiyou

    AmayaTaiyou Member

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    Hey everyone!
    Wanted people's expert opinions as I'm very new to suits and tailoring. I recently purchased a suit that had cuffed hems. The jacket fits fine, but the hem is too wide and length of the pants a little bit too long. I know if it was uncuffed/plain bottoms, narrowing the hem and shortening the length is an easy job, but wasn't sure if that was the case of cuffed bottoms.

    Thanks!
     

  3. ter1413

    ter1413 Stylish Dinosaur

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    Yes. Easy to do.
     

  4. pterhx

    pterhx New Member

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    Hi!

    Looking to get some feedback on the fit of this shirt and suit! FWIW I think I'm going for a slim, modern cut. Feel free to be brutally honest about literally anything.

    The Shirt
    • The sleeve is riding up my arm a bit, but even so, I think it's maybe 3/4 - 1 in too short?
    • Might not be able to tell from the picture, but it's pretty tight around my forearm -- I'm thinking to increase the cuff size by a bit.
    • Should I slim down the waist of the shirt?
    • There's some fabric bunched up, radiating from my arm pits -- is that a sign of a poor fit? If so, what would need to be adjusted?
    • Anything else I'm missing? FWIW: I'm planning on getting a new MTM shirt made.
    suit fit-1.jpg suit fit-2.jpg


    The Suit
    It's a bit wrinkly -- I hope that doesn't make too hard to give feedback.
    • There's a weird bump around the armhole. It seems like it's because there's excess shoulder fabric that goes past where the arm is attached. Is that normal? Can I get a tailor to fix this?
    • Is it just me or are my shoulders uneven?
    • Think I can maybe take in the waist a bit?
    • Do I need to adjust the sleeve pitch? From the back, it looks like the fabric bunches up at the top. If I move my arms forward, it's fixed, but maybe it's ok since I might have my arms forward some of the time anyways? Is this something easy to do?
    • Pants seem a tad bit too long?
    • Should I slim down the pants a tiny bit?
    • What's up with the weird bunching up of fabric around my ass and thigh?
    • Anything else to mention? To my noob eyes, it looks wearable, but I'm looking to make it better.
    suit fit-3.jpg suit fit-4.jpg
    suit fit-5.jpg

    Thanks in advance!
     

  5. othertravel

    othertravel Distinguished Member

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    Was this MTM? Who made it?

    You're looking at major reconstruction to fix the problems you've identified. But don't be discouraged; finding a proper fit can take a few attempts.

    If this is MTM, I recommend experimenting with some RTW that fits you well, and then go from there.
     

  6. pterhx

    pterhx New Member

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    Thanks for the response!

    Yep, the suit is MTM from Black Lapel. Shirt is MTM from Proper Cloth.

    Which problems are the ones that require major reconstruction? All of the pieces?
     

  7. othertravel

    othertravel Distinguished Member

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    Pretty much. Can you get a refund?
     

  8. ter1413

    ter1413 Stylish Dinosaur

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    How were you measured? Did you take your own measurements and submitted online? Or was this in a store?
     

  9. johnross2007

    johnross2007 Active Member

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    I had a tailor take in the sleeves only my suit jacket from Black Lapel. I guess BL used functioning buttonholes and the tailor didn't know how to handle it. Here are pictures of how the tailor decided to take in the sleeves (without telling me he would do it this way!). The remaining buttons are non-functioning — I don't know if this is because the buttons were never functioning or if the tailor did that. I am quite frustrated — he has the reputation as the best tailor in my town of ~75,000. Should I ask him to fix this, or should I decline to trust him again with this jacket?

    What is the best way to fix this? Just add buttons? I'm concerned about the weird button hole in the tip of the sleeve. Can the tailor's work be reversed, or was this procedure destructive?

    OgkgrsGxRqGKHVcqCBg8Mg.jpg

    Ti3Ano+tT6yPBDn8T9IQHQ.jpg

    vGGf5gCDQ620sSHQ00peQg.jpg

    cl7NAZyGQpCY733wSflZMA.jpg
     

  10. ter1413

    ter1413 Stylish Dinosaur

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    Did you discuss with the tailor how the adjustment would be made prior to the work being done?
     

  11. Wilson13

    Wilson13 Senior Member

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    Hi all,

    Looking for some feedback on a potential alteration for a local tailor to fix the sleeve head on this jacket. The shoulders are completely un-padded, and there is minimal-to-no wadding (I think that it is the term), yet the shoulders are too "pointy" at the sleeve head. I think this also causes them to look more squared than what they actually are and what I prefer.

    Any suggestions on what can be done to "soften the corners"? I don't think the shoulders are too wide, and I do not have this problem with other jackets from the same maker. The fabric is Harris Tweed. This is online MTM, so I would need to have the alteration done by my local tailor.

    And yes, the lapels are pretty wide; I may have them slimmed down by about 0.5-0.75". I requested no boutonniere for that very purpose.

    TIA!

    D21779A5-7A57-49EA-A83B-A111A7AACD5A.jpeg 3C74BCF0-7036-4AA3-9FFC-81D6D4700961.jpeg
     

  12. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    how were you measured?
    both are disasters.
    i will just comment on the shirt
    chest too tight, sleeves too narrow, cant tell about the sleeve length since the sleeves are stuck on your forarm

    you can take in the waist and add some darts

    press the suit then take photos
     

  13. johnross2007

    johnross2007 Active Member

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    I did not. I was not aware I should have. It never occurred to me a tailor would make this kind of alteration without consulting me first. Especially if the alteration is a destructive process. Is it?
     

  14. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    the tailor will have to take out the sleeve head
    you want a naturel shoulder this is not that.!!!!
    and slimming lapels is expensive
    might be worth starting over.
    wher
     

  15. Wilson13

    Wilson13 Senior Member

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    Thanks for the response. Do you mean the tailor should remove any and all interior construction at the sleeve head and re-attach?

    I am perplexed as to why this shoulder looks so much more structured. As a comparison, below is a picture of a jacket from the same place using, presumably, the same construction techniques. Looks much better.

    Also, I have access to inexpensive but quality alterations, so I am not worried about the cost. I think it cost me about $30 to have another jacket's lapels altered (including re-doing the pick stitching).

    gray linen jacket.jpg
     

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