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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    brendon

    did you tell mrala to put himself in the hands of a tailor??
    sorry but i am retired. :D lol


    in the future i am going to milk that one all i can.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2012
  2. zerostyle

    zerostyle Senior member

    Messages:
    580
    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2010
    Hi all,

    I'm trying to decide on a staple navy blazer for work. Here are 3 of the slimmer fit ones I could find to try on in person, right off the rack. Sorry that the pics aren't the greatest - the indoor lighting at these stores is tough. Ignore the sleeves, those would obviously be taken up.

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    Click here for a bigger image

    My notes:

    1. BB Fitzgerald
    Pros: Best fit in the shoulders and chest, but quite slim overall. Very clean back.
    Cons: Length is a little longer than I'd like. Single vent only. Also, is probably the straightest/slimmest cut. That said, my body is mostly shaped like that ( ~ 37" chest and 32" waist ).
    Price: Around $420 on sale

    2. BB Regent
    Pros: More aggressive shape. Very clean back.
    Cons: Length similar to Fitzgerald, on the longer side but acceptable. Chest and shoulders seem a bit bigger and wider. Single vent rear I think
    Price: Around $420 on sale

    3. Charles Tyrwhitt Tailored Fit Blazer
    Pros: Looks similar to BB Regent in aggressivenes. Cheapest of the bunch. Dual vent !!!. Also, I liked the length on this one the best. It was a touch shorter than the BB's.
    Cons: Chest and shoulders felt too wide for me. The picture here doesn't look bad, but felt large on me overall. Fabric and buttons seemed a bit cheaper.
    Price: Around $330, maybe cheaper on sale

    One issue all 3 of these seemed to have was that when I lifted up my arms I'd get a slight divot under the shoulder. This happens on pretty much any structured blazer I've ever tried on though - I think it's mostly due to my very narrow shoulders. Dropping down to a 36 doesn't work because the chest gets too tight.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2012
  3. RingTail

    RingTail Senior member

    Messages:
    134
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    Jan 11, 2012
    ^ Of the three CT looks best because of the strong shoulders and lower first button (optimally should be at navel?)making the lapel look longer and making you look taller.
    BTW from what I have seen BB Regent is dual vent.
     
  4. TheloniusDrunk

    TheloniusDrunk Senior member

    Messages:
    318
    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    Location:
    Tomorrow
    Hey all, I'm currently trying to figure out my jacket size - the reason I'm having trouble is that I have 19" shoulders, which seems to be the norm for size 42L jackets, but my chest is only 40 inches. Can tailors take in the chest that much? Is it better to have shoulders that fit right and slightly wide in the chest, or shoulders that are too small with it just right in the chest?

    I'm currently looking at http://www.ebay.com/itm/NWT-1395-CA...port_Coats&hash=item5894062c5e#ht_2161wt_1398, and I was wondering how much it would cost to get it tailored down to a size 40 chest.

    Thanks!
     
  5. timebomb

    timebomb Member

    Messages:
    6
    Joined:
    May 21, 2012
    Location:
    Vancouver
    Hey guys,

    First post here. I bought these two suits at Moore's in Vancouver for $650 (buy 1 get 1 free) and was wondering if they are of decent quality and if they fit right. These are my first two suits since I bought a suit for prom 6 years ago. Let me know what you think and what I should alter to get it looking better.

    Btw, I wore the dark jacket with the light pants because I tried on the dark suit first and realized the lighting was bad so I just redid the photos of the jacket with the light pants. Also, please excuse the wrinkly shirt and the sloppy and uneven folding of the pant legs. I don't have nice dress shoes yet which is why I took these photos barefoot but if you want to recommend me some I'm definitely open to suggestions.



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  6. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

    Messages:
    5,059
    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2006
    Location:
    Cambridge, England
    

    The CT looks the worst in my opinion. It's too short, the lapels are too narrow, and it's too narrow in the waist and pulling at the button.
     
  7. Brendon

    Brendon Senior member

    Messages:
    115
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2012
    Hi A Tailor, very good....sorry to hear of your retirement. Did you train anybody before you hung up your shears? I just noticed a post that someone was choosing navy jackets, is it general in the states to not differentiate between a reefer jacket and a blazer?
    Hope your retirement is going well
    Brendon
     
  8. wad06

    wad06 Member

    Messages:
    8
    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2011
    Got my first tailored suit a bit ago and never got around to posting here. I'm about to make a bigger suit order (four or five), and I'm not sure what to think of this tailor's work. As background, I have a strangely shaped body that makes OTR a little difficult. I guess I'm looking to hear comments on this suit as to fit/tailoring before I make a decision of whether to stick with him. I also want to hear comments on style. I made very few style changes to what he originally set forth.

    Let me know your thoughts, and thank you greatly in advance. I appreciate the input. (also, sorry about the less than stellar pictures)

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  9. IrateCustomer

    IrateCustomer Senior member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2011
    Location:
    Spooning DerekS
    

    I have the same size in the Chest and Shoulders. I wear a 32 in the pants though, so I can't speak to that for you, but I wear a 38R or 39R depending on the cut of the jacket. I think you'll be swimming in this jacket.

    This jacket is a good example of something close to what you can wear.
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2012
  10. Al H.

    Al H. Member

    Messages:
    17
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2011
    Hello gang, would like to know if this is salvageable, and I don't mean the notch lapels.

    This is a BBBF suit that I snagged for the right price, but it came in a little looser around the mid-section than I wanted. So I had the local Nordstrom tailor take the waist in, he said he'd do as much as he could without causing too much chaos in the back. At the time he did the fitting, based on way he had everything pinned up, it looked decent - still not the waist suppression I was looking for, but the back appeared fine so I said go for it.

    Tried it on today, snapped these shots, and realized how jacked up the back is. Need suggestions on whether I should (or can) take it back or to another tailor and try to clean up the back, or if the back is truly not salvageable than say to hell with it and tighten up the waist the way I originally wanted.

    For reference, I'm not hunching, slouching or puffing my chest excessively in these photos, just a normal comfortable stance. Tailor also shortened the jacket by about 3/4" and the pants fit fine for me so I didn't focus on those photos at all. Thanks in advance.

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  11. lysandar

    lysandar Senior member

    Messages:
    141
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    Mar 21, 2012
    I bear in mind a post, either by despos or a tailor, that the work of waist suppression is spread out over several seams running lengthwise along the torso. I believe that creating greater waist suppression requires cloth around each of these seams to be taken in, to retain overall balance of the suit and prevent "over-pulling" of the cloth toward any part of the torso - notwithstanding that some areas get more removed than others, depending on one's physique. In which case, your experience would appear to be a negative example of what happens if the tailor doesn't adhere to this practice. I would not go back again.
     
  12. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The jacket doesn't match your posture and the way the tailor altered the jacket makes it more obvious. The back is way too long in relation to the front length. The jacket needs to be adjusted for an erect posture but it would have been better to do so before you shortened the jacket. The suppression you want won't show up the way I think you want it to because the fronts have no shape and look boxy. Taking in the side seams won't get you there.
    I hesitate to say this but this is a very odd suit. The button stance and the narrow notch lapels are not flattering and the fit is very off, maybe beyond any possible adjustment.
     
  13. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Got my first tailored suit a bit ago and never got around to posting here. I'm about to make a bigger suit order (four or five), and I'm not sure what to think of this tailor's work. As background, I have a strangely shaped body that makes OTR a little difficult. I guess I'm looking to hear comments on this suit as to fit/tailoring before I make a decision of whether to stick with him. I also want to hear comments on style. I made very few style changes to what he originally set forth.

    Let me know your thoughts, and thank you greatly in advance. I appreciate the input. (also, sorry about the less than stellar pictures)

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    He did a pretty good job fitting your erect posture but didn't do as well on the trouser. The back is too long and causes all the wrinkles on the back of your leg. Trouser is very long. You might want a bit wider knee so it doesn't show the curve of your leg, especially the right leg.
    The button position looks too high to my eye and the suppression a bit too severe on the back waist. If he shortens the back more to balance the jacket it will lift the back parts off your hips and give more expression to the waist. It won't look so clingy at the waist. I would shorten the sleeves a touch and ask if he can get the sleeves to hang cleaner.
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  14. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    #2 looks like the best fit but has the least style. I like the way this one fits over your chest the best. Really hard to discern much from these pictures.
     
  15. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    L H
    i take it that you read the tutorials. the one on suppressing the waist especially.
    your tailor did all the work on those side/back seams. and all the suppression
    is at the back with none at the front. the result is what you see.
    instead of the back pulling in the front as he intended. the front is pulling the back.
    the picture looks as though t there is no front dart. one could be put in but he must
    also cut a dart in the canvas. then the under arm seam must be taken in.
    and then the side seams let back out again. hopefully some cloth was left inside.

    i think this is bb's conservative model, we use to call it ivy league?
    its meant to be straight sided. the suppressing may not be all you might wish.

    if you look at the third photo, at the upper back. .those rolls of cloth can be removed .
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2012
  16. MarkI

    MarkI Senior member

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    Can someone recommend a tailor in NY for some waist suppression on the jacket, and pants need to be taken in a pinch
     
  17. Al H.

    Al H. Member

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    17
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    Mar 16, 2011
    Thanks for the feedback guys. I'm going to go back to the original tailor at Nordstrom's and ask him why he made the adjustments the way he did, which may give the next tailor some insight should I try to take it somewhere else and "repair" it.

    The jacket came with some small darts in it already, I had asked the tailor at first if he could add them in because they are so subtle that I could not tell. I wonder if they can be expanded. Not sure how much worse the situation can get, but I'll find out soon I guess. Thanks again.
     
  18. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    He altered it that way because that's all you can do on a ready made garment. Darts serve a specific purpose and are done at the first stages of construction, not added as an alteration adjustment. The adjustments I mentioned are posture adjustments and it is rare to find someone that wants to put the time and effort into making adjustments for posture. Even when you do there is no guarantee of a 100% result due to limitations of a finished garment. For posture fixes to a garment, MTM or custom route is the way to go.
     
  19. Al H.

    Al H. Member

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    Despos: would you have any suggestions on how the button stance should be altered to perhaps make the front appear less boxy or bulky?
     
  20. doogoshly

    doogoshly Member

    Messages:
    16
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    Jul 21, 2010
    posted earlier in the thread but didn't get a response bc i was an idiot and didn't take pictures correctly. sorry for reposting but just wanted to get some opinions before i go to the tailor tomorrow. if it's at all helpful, i'm a 42 chest, 32 waist, 5'10", 180lbs. thank you.

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