The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[NeverLearntToShare]

Like just about every SS suit, the button stance is too high, the quarters are gaping, either the fabric around the bicep is wrong or your undershirt is weird, the trousers are too tight through legs, trousers are showing off your package, and the rise is too low. It looks like the breast pocket is curved, too---or is that just from your stance?
Is your shoulder to waist ratio as extreme as it looks in the picture?

I agree the button stance is a tad higher than ideal, though it's not a deal-breaker for me.

Concerning the fabric around the bicep, do you mean because it is bunching around that area? I get that with a lot of suits I try, and have been told it's probably an issue with sleeve pitch. I think I just have an unusual shoulder/arm angle, so unfortunately I end up having this problem often with OTR.

The breast pocket I believe is in indeed curved.

My shoulder to waist ratio is fairly big, though I think it looks exaggerated in the changing room pictures. The ones in a more natural light are more accurate.

 

[FLMIkey]

Hello,

New member here. I bought my first nice Italian suit over the weekend (it's Burberry and managed to buy it on sale for $370 from Saks outlet). From what I've read here, lurking around, is many people don't rate it. In any case, I have it, and would like to get it tailored. I bought it to the Burberry store to be tailored, but am thinking about bringing it to a tailor recommended by people here. I live in Ft. Lauderdale, FL. I would be very appreciative if the community could recommend professional tailors here or recommend a way to find a tailor here.

 

[jonathanS]

Hi all,

I received my first M2M Trousers order from Luxire, and I have made the unfortunate mistake of requesting trousers that are generally just too slim - it turns out that I was far too overzealous in my measurement changes to trousers I already own which are a bit too baggy.
I have been sent to this thread from the Luxire thread for advice.

To be clear, I am desiring a slim fit to the likes of an Epaulet Rivet Chino (or Jcrew 770 fit) with a higher rise, as I have relatively short legs for my height. I also have the misfortune of having well developed thighs, but a relatively flat seat.
Original Measurements:
Back Rise: 42.2 cm
Front Rise: 29.5 cm
Waist: 48.5 cm
Hips: 57 cm
Thigh: 31.7 cm
Knee: 23.5 cm
Inseam: 79 cm
Outseam: 105 cm
Bottom: 19 cm

Luxire suggestions:
- letting out the waist 2 cm (total)
- letting out hip 2 cm total
- letting out thigh 3.5 cm total
- letting out knee 3.5 cm total
- decrease inseam 1.5 cm at crotch
- increase length +1.5 cm

I have already received some great measurement change advice from the folks at Luxire, but wanted to see if anyone here had anything to add.

Thanks!

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You need a remake. Can’t salvage those attrocities. They just don’t fit. Don’t they feel tighter in the calves and quads?

 

[Shirtmaven]

You need a remake. Can’t salvage those attrocities. They just don’t fit. Don’t they feel tighter in the calves and quads?

Out of curiosity, does Luxire, give you some sort of break on the remake, or is it all on you because you supplied the measurements?
The excitement of opening the box. And trying something on, and then it is a disaster.....

 

[jonathanS]

Out of curiosity, does Luxire, give you some sort of break on the remake, or is it all on you because you supplied the measurements?
The excitement of opening the box. And trying something on, and then it is a disaster.....

No idea. Never ordered luxire. I’m just saying you can’t salvage those trousers from where it’s tight. It looks tight in the quads, and the calves.

 

[Matty007]

Just wondering whether this suit is beyond redemption? I usually have good luck at finding suits that fit me, but feel I’ve got a dud here. Probably made a mistake buying off EBay. Shoulder divot on the right shoulder and weird creasing near the neck at the rear of the jacket and a lot of bunching at the arms etc

Any advice whether I can salvage this?

Thanks

 

[Maccimus]

Just wondering whether this suit is beyond redemption? I usually have good luck at finding suits that fit me, but feel I’ve got a dud here. Probably made a mistake buying off EBay. Shoulder divot on the right shoulder and weird creasing near the neck at the rear of the jacket and a lot of bunching at the arms etc

Any advice whether I can salvage this?

Thanks

I doubt you are standing in your natural posture. Centre back line is twisting, and obviously your right shoulder is lifted. Try to be a bit more relaxed.
My guess is it can be saved.

 

[jonathanS]

Just wondering whether this suit is beyond redemption? I usually have good luck at finding suits that fit me, but feel I’ve got a dud here. Probably made a mistake buying off EBay. Shoulder divot on the right shoulder and weird creasing near the neck at the rear of the jacket and a lot of bunching at the arms etc

Any advice whether I can salvage this?

Thanks

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You look like you're really ramrod in there, like the other dude said, I don't think your standing naturally.

 

[Maccimus]

 

[Matty007]

Thanks guys. Tried more like my normal posture. Also tried it with a more tapered shirt and it seems to have alleviated much of the sleeve bunching.

Can’t help thinking it’s rather unslighty from the back however and I hate that shoulder divot on the right. Also never noticed I angle my body to the left.

Any suggestions on how to fix this? If possible at all.

P.S. Ignore the trouser drape. These are unfinished 36’ trousers and haven’t yet been hemmed.

 

[Matty007]

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Wow. Looks a beautiful suit if I can get it to fit like that.

 

[jonathanS]

Thanks guys. Tried more like my normal posture. Also tried it with a more tapered shirt and it seems to have alleviated much of the sleeve bunching.

Can’t help thinking it’s rather unslighty from the back however and I hate that shoulder divot on the right. Also never noticed I angle my body to the left.

Any suggestions on how to fix this? If possible at all.

P.S. Ignore the trouser drape. These are unfinished 36’ trousers and haven’t yet been hemmed.

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You might be able to salvage it. You’ll need to let it out in the back. Both the lats & waist. Also, of note, the balance is off. Are you left handed?

It’ll fit well enough. Won’t be perfect. But I doubt you paid bespoke prices.

 

[Maccimus]

Matty, no your issues can't be completely solved if your natural posture is really like that. You will need a proper bespoke jacket to fit your posture. No RTW jacket is designed for asymmetrical posture.
The problems you have observed are all inter-related. Shoulder divots are their because your arms are bit backward against how sleeves were set in. That should be an easy fix to a competent tailor.
The rolls under collar are there because your shoulders are not in the shape the jacket was cut for. Your shoulders are dragging back piece to front, which a) creates tension around your neck in the back, b) makes your shoulder lines twisted (not very obvious but you will see dent at your front neck point), and c) lifts the whole jacket and makes your bottom half like a skirt. In theory these problem can be fixed, but the tailor must be an experienced bespoke tailor.

 

[Matty007]

You might be able to salvage it. You’ll need to let it out in the back. Both the lats & waist. Also, of note, the balance is off. Are you left handed?

It’ll fit well enough. Won’t be perfect. But I doubt you paid bespoke prices.

Thank you. So I need to let it out in the back yes? And the waist also? I thought it might benefit from being taken in at the waist as it feels rather roomy. Any way of getting rid of the shoulder divot?

No, I’m right handed. I do seem to have a strange posture from the back but don’t believe my natural posture is like that. I am quite hunched and think I’m conscious of that in the photos so I try to stand too rigid which throws the balance off.

Entirely possible the balance would not be like that normally

Fortunately I did not pay bespoke haha. It’s a Canali I found on Ebay. Didn’t pay too much for it but it’s a beautiful suit so would be upsetting if I couldn’t get it fitted properly

 

[SplurgeFrugal]

Have you ever thought about learning to do your own alterations? I purchased a new sewing machine for $75.00 and taught myself to do pretty extensive alterations after practicing on a couple of thrifted jackets. It's not difficult to learn and the cost of having one sportscoat altered would have exceeded the cost of my sewing machine. Now, I do all of my own alterations on my thrifted purchases, saving lots of money in the process. In the jacket below, I removed the center vent, and slimmed the overall waist and body, giving the jacket a slimmer, more European silhouette. This is a silk/wool blend sportscoat that I purchased second-hand on eBay for $12.00! As long as the shoulders fit, everything else can be altered!