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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. ohian

    ohian New Member

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    Apparently, I did! >: ) Although, I did notice that they made some adjustments to my measurements...I'd have to take a look at it again.

    Any suggestions? Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2012


  2. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    the jacket is too short by about 1"
    the waist should be suppressed a bit more by using the under arm seam.
    the sleeves should be shortened to allow 1/4 to 1/2" of shirt of cuff to show
    but only if the shirt cuff reaches the base of the thumb.
    cant see the trousers under the jacket.
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2012


  3. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    the back should be shortened at the top. but the roundness of your back is making the bottom kick out.
    the pattern should have more length over that roundness.
    the total length of the coat should be longer,about an inch and a fourth.
    the lapel bow out, means the chest is too tight. no way to make that larger.
    you have to be more specific about the shoulders. they dont get better with time.
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2012


  4. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    liam o
    really its just way too big let it go.
     


  5. Liam O

    Liam O Senior member

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    Thank you :)
     


  6. CDHagg

    CDHagg Senior member

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    Any suggestions about tailoring this blazer? I'm going to get some waist-suppression done, but with the high button stance, I'm worried that it might cause the jacket to flair out like a skirt.

    The button stance cannot be lowered, correct?

    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     


  7. phoenixrecon

    phoenixrecon Senior member

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    return that and go up in length
     


  8. elev8rz

    elev8rz Senior member

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    i am currently hunting for a suit that is appropriate for job interviews. this is the first i've found in my size (38S) in months and i want to know if i'm being too picky. my problem with it is the low button stance, which puts the top button just right above my navel. ultimately i simply need an inexpensive serviceable suit until i'm able to invest in better quality.

    i know i'll need to narrow the torso a bit and shorten the sleeves. once that's done, will this button stance work for, or against, my 5'5" stature? $20 for the suit and up to $30 for the alterations.


    note: the marks are on the filthy mirror, not the suit.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    thanks in advance.
     


  9. CDHagg

    CDHagg Senior member

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    If I get a long instead of a regular, the sleeves will be too long. Can they be shortened, even though the cuffs are functional?
     


  10. phoenixrecon

    phoenixrecon Senior member

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    they can but it will be expensive as you will have to take it up from the shoulder. so forget about it.
     


  11. u8myburger

    u8myburger Member

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    I wish I saw this thread earlier instead of making a new thread on the mainboard lol...

    Anyway... I just wanted some feedback on this OTR suit I bought. Something that concerns me is the fabric that is bunching up behind my arm. Keep in mind that this suit hasn't been altered in any way. The trousers are a 38w, but waist measures 35w. Would i need to taper the legs? and would i need to take the crotch or seat in after taking them in? Only asking because i've only purchased suit separates in the past.

    And last but not least, keep it or return it?

    [​IMG]
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    Last edited: Mar 10, 2012


  12. nomzam

    nomzam New Member

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    Pant fitting is not so good I htink you should go up some lenght and lilttle side stiching the colour is cool and look wise is great
    Clothing Ideas
     


  13. nomzam

    nomzam New Member

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    Everything is perfect but the pant lenght is too long. and tha waist is big so try to fix this other wise your suit is great . Looking good you can get clothing ideas from internet too
     


  14. nandreetta

    nandreetta Member

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    Hello,

    I can't believe what luck I have that a resource like this is available. I'm trying to nail down a wedding suit and I ordered two sizes of the Benjamin Sartorial Granoro suit. The sizes are Euro 52 (41/42R) and Euro 54 (43/44R). I took them to two different local tailors and got two different opinions as to which one to keep and alter and which to return.

    Personally, I feel I might be between sizes in the shoulders, but the smaller fits closest in shoulders and chest but pulls slightly at the waist. The larger could be too wide at the shoulder, I can fit a fist in the chest relatively easily, and would need to be suppressed in general. Regarding trousers, I can't even button the smaller pair and there might be enough material to let out in the waist and seat to make them work. The larger pair is a half inch big in the waist and, I think, needs to be slimmed through the seat, hips, legs, etc. I'm not concerned about trouser hem or jacket cuffs at this point. I just need to know which to keep or whether I should return both and try a different company with a different cut (in my current budget, the next I'd try is SuitSupply).

    Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer and please let me know if my pictures are insufficient.

    First, the smaller:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And an attempt to show the shoulder width by moving my arm six inches away from my hip. The difference in this between the sizes is more noticeable in person:

    [​IMG]

    Next, the larger suit:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  15. kennon

    kennon Member

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    Hello!
    Thanks so much for this thread! I just picked up my first bespoke suit and shirt from Spoon Tailor in San Francisco. Pics below (sorry, there are a lot):

    Fully canvassed suit with base charcoal fabric ($850):

    [​IMG][​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Shirt with base cotton fabric ($95):

    [​IMG][​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    There's something that seems off about the proportions of the jacket, but I cant put my finger on it. Perhaps the gorge is too high? The jacket bottom too flared?
    On the pants, something funky seems to be going on in the rear. Also, it seems either the shirt sleeves are too long (normal for french cuffs?) or the jacket sleeves are slightly short. In addition, The shirt seems a little too roomy? The shop owner said it is difficult to tighten the waist because I have a deep arch in my back.

    Lastly, some closeups of oddities in the jacket. First, when the jacket is at rest, the collar seems to pop out 1/2 inch from my shirt:

    [​IMG]

    Lastly, there are many creases on the front of the jacket that appear to be due to the interior canvassing. Theyre a bit difficult to see, but quite obvious in normal lighting. I pressed the suit again, but they still remain:

    [​IMG][​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Thank you so much for this thread!
     


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