The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[jandersson]

@mintyfresh: I'm not a tailor but...

Photos would help diagnose the problem and ask ProperCloth.

I suspect armhole height has to be addressed at the pattern cutting stage. I doubt this problem can be resolved with alterations. Maybe this can be improved for your next shirt, but few MTM shirt companies can do high armholes so I doubt it.

Having sufficient room across the back and some extra width and length in the sleeves improves mobility. Longer sleeves require properly narrow cuffs to prevent them from sliding down over your hands.

 

[Aloysius16]

Is there any particular shirt pattern adjustment that can or should be made for rounded/forward shoulders. Typically, this features causes three problems:

1. Some drag lines either side of the collar (as the yoke is dragged forward at each end)
2. An excess of fabric along the armscye at the front.
3. Creasing around the armscye at the back (where the shoulder is hollow)

 

[Ahheck01]

I've purhased a few Indochino suits with decent results, but for my upcoming wedding I spent twice as much stepping up to a 3 piece oliver wicks suit. I'd love to hear your feedback on what I should get tailored/adjusted! Probably a bit late for a remake to get here in time for a 9/30 wedding.

 

[mobobs]

I've purhased a few Indochino suits with decent results, but for my upcoming wedding I spent twice as much stepping up to a 3 piece oliver wicks suit. I'd love to hear your feedback on what I should get tailored/adjusted! Probably a bit late for a remake to get here in time for a 9/30 wedding.

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There really isn't much that you can alter. You might want to see if one of the tailors wants to weigh in on whether shortening the collar will remove some of the creasing in back. The suit looks fine overall, definitely better than any OTR would fit with your posture. My only suggestion is using suspenders under the vest (definitely not a light contrasting belt) so that the pants rise slightly and the vest meets the waistband without showing any shirt.

 

[bdavro23]

I am not a tailor. With that said, I dont see how shortening the collar would help anything here. Perhaps you meant shortening the back.

In any case, I would be interested in hearing the recommendations from the pros here.

 

[mobobs]

I am not a tailor. With that said, I dont see how shortening the collar would help anything here. Perhaps you meant shortening the back.

In any case, I would be interested in hearing the recommendations from the pros here.

You are correct, I meant shortening the back. I tend to use those interchangeably since my tailor knows what I mean

 

[gettoasty]

General question:

I have two pair of pants from the same maker, light brown and gray. They each have a 11" front rise.

I had the light brown altered (nip the waist, shorten pant leg, and tapered). Fits well and really appreciate the higher rise.

I then had the gray altered at a different appointment (same alterations as above). For some reason, the gray pair really hugs in and around my whole seat, uncomfortable when seated for long periods of time.

First thing I noticed was how much more snug the waist was of the gray pair of pants (at least let out quarter of an inch).

Question is when the tailor takes in the waist, can this affect the rise of the pants? Whatever alterations happened the pants feel like a lower rise pair of trousers when I am seated. I plan on taking the pants back this weekend but am not sure what to ask for. Only thing is to take in both pair of pants and ask the tailor to measure both pants and compare seat measurements (waist, front and back rise, hip measurement, etc.) I think the solution is to let out the waist 0.25" but will this help with the seat?

 

[vim147]

Am learning to do my own alterations from youtube videos.
For a slim fit, no break trouser what hem width should i do ?
For shirts, how much room space should be in the body and arms to have the fitted look ?

 

[pnin22]

Trouser hem width 7.5" is moderate, 7" is slim. Anything under that, and they'll fit like leggings.

Care to share YouTube clips for advanced jacket alterations?

 

[TortillaBusiness]

Not totally happy with the fit of this suit I bought a few months back, I'd prefer a more fitted look in the body. I was going to ask a tailor to take the sides in and slim the arms and pants. Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks.

 

[Mannerheim]

Arms look fine, but you could slim a bit the pants and the upper back

 

[1up]

Had some items made from Luxire, and I can't resolve the bunching in the lower back of the shirt, and pants. Would love any insight:

Their recommendations after this iteration are:

1) Reduce the midsection width of the shirt by 0.5" flat (total 1" at the shirt waist).
2) Reduce back pant length by 0.5" and reduce inseam by 0.5" at crotch.

 

[fourspin]

x-Posting from the PC forum, hope that's ok.

I just dipped my first toe in the Proper Cloth pool. I am in Denver so my only local semi custom shop choice is Ratio, and I have tried them once and do like their construction, but not so much their fabric selection. I understand the limitations of online MTM, but wanted to see how close I could get. I figured a casual shirt would be a little more forgiving than a dress shirt, so I wasn't going for a super fitted look, just a reasonably slim fit that I could tweak if I order something more dressy. I think for starters I would take the waist in a tad for a dressier shirt. I'd appreciate feedback on fit. Note that I didn't have the collar stays in when these were taken (because I washed the shirt and forgot to put them back in after ironing), and photos were shot slightly upwards by my daughter.

 

[whitefisk]

Recent MTM. Advice on how to clean up the back for the next one would be greatly appreciated

 

[Shirtmaven]

Recent MTM. Advice on how to clean up the back for the next one would be greatly appreciated
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nice where is this from?
a little more sloping shoulders and even more on the right..