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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. mintyfresh

    mintyfresh Senior member

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    Received my first shirt from ProperCloth, and I seem to have the same problem with the majority of OTR shirts - that the sleeves are fine when my arm is down, but pull back so much when I lift my arms.

    Given that they are providing 'free alterations', what is it I would tell them to fix? I suppose this is an armhole issue, but not sure how to verbalize it.

    From my experience, the only OTR shirts that don't do that are Brooks Brothers shirts (if that helps any).

    Many thanks.
     


  2. jandersson

    jandersson Active Member

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    @mintyfresh: I'm not a tailor but...

    Photos would help diagnose the problem and ask ProperCloth.

    I suspect armhole height has to be addressed at the pattern cutting stage. I doubt this problem can be resolved with alterations. Maybe this can be improved for your next shirt, but few MTM shirt companies can do high armholes so I doubt it.

    Having sufficient room across the back and some extra width and length in the sleeves improves mobility. Longer sleeves require properly narrow cuffs to prevent them from sliding down over your hands.
     


  3. Aloysius16

    Aloysius16 Senior member

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    Is there any particular shirt pattern adjustment that can or should be made for rounded/forward shoulders. Typically, this features causes three problems:

    1. Some drag lines either side of the collar (as the yoke is dragged forward at each end)
    2. An excess of fabric along the armscye at the front.
    3. Creasing around the armscye at the back (where the shoulder is hollow)
     


  4. Ahheck01

    Ahheck01 Senior member

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    I've purhased a few Indochino suits with decent results, but for my upcoming wedding I spent twice as much stepping up to a 3 piece oliver wicks suit. I'd love to hear your feedback on what I should get tailored/adjusted! Probably a bit late for a remake to get here in time for a 9/30 wedding.

    JPEG image-90548DF95CDD-12.jpg JPEG image-90548DF95CDD-1.jpg JPEG image-90548DF95CDD-2.jpg JPEG image-90548DF95CDD-3.jpg JPEG image-90548DF95CDD-6.jpg JPEG image-90548DF95CDD-10.jpg JPEG image-90548DF95CDD-11.jpg JPEG image-90548DF95CDD-12.jpg
     


  5. mobobs

    mobobs Senior member

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    There really isn't much that you can alter. You might want to see if one of the tailors wants to weigh in on whether shortening the collar will remove some of the creasing in back. The suit looks fine overall, definitely better than any OTR would fit with your posture. My only suggestion is using suspenders under the vest (definitely not a light contrasting belt) so that the pants rise slightly and the vest meets the waistband without showing any shirt.
     


  6. bdavro23

    bdavro23 Senior member

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    I am not a tailor. With that said, I dont see how shortening the collar would help anything here. Perhaps you meant shortening the back.

    In any case, I would be interested in hearing the recommendations from the pros here.
     


  7. mobobs

    mobobs Senior member

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    You are correct, I meant shortening the back. I tend to use those interchangeably since my tailor knows what I mean :)
     


  8. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

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    General question:

    I have two pair of pants from the same maker, light brown and gray. They each have a 11" front rise.

    I had the light brown altered (nip the waist, shorten pant leg, and tapered). Fits well and really appreciate the higher rise.

    I then had the gray altered at a different appointment (same alterations as above). For some reason, the gray pair really hugs in and around my whole seat, uncomfortable when seated for long periods of time.

    First thing I noticed was how much more snug the waist was of the gray pair of pants (at least let out quarter of an inch).

    Question is when the tailor takes in the waist, can this affect the rise of the pants? Whatever alterations happened the pants feel like a lower rise pair of trousers when I am seated. I plan on taking the pants back this weekend but am not sure what to ask for. Only thing is to take in both pair of pants and ask the tailor to measure both pants and compare seat measurements (waist, front and back rise, hip measurement, etc.) I think the solution is to let out the waist 0.25" but will this help with the seat?
     


  9. vim147

    vim147 Well-Known Member

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    Am learning to do my own alterations from youtube videos.
    For a slim fit, no break trouser what hem width should i do ?
    For shirts, how much room space should be in the body and arms to have the fitted look ?
     


  10. pnin22

    pnin22 Senior member

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    Trouser hem width 7.5" is moderate, 7" is slim. Anything under that, and they'll fit like leggings.

    Care to share YouTube clips for advanced jacket alterations?
     


  11. TortillaBusiness

    TortillaBusiness New Member

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    Not totally happy with the fit of this suit I bought a few months back, I'd prefer a more fitted look in the body. I was going to ask a tailor to take the sides in and slim the arms and pants. Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks.

    DSC_1444.jpg

    DSC_1445.jpg

    DSC_1446.jpg

    DSC_1447.jpg
     


  12. Mannerheim

    Mannerheim Well-Known Member

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    Arms look fine, but you could slim a bit the pants and the upper back
     


  13. 1up

    1up Senior member

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    Had some items made from Luxire, and I can't resolve the bunching in the lower back of the shirt, and pants. Would love any insight:

    Their recommendations after this iteration are:

    1) Reduce the midsection width of the shirt by 0.5" flat (total 1" at the shirt waist).
    2) Reduce back pant length by 0.5" and reduce inseam by 0.5" at crotch.

    IMG_0397.jpg IMG_0400.jpg IMG_0396.jpg IMG_0402.jpg IMG_0395.jpg IMG_0401.jpg
     


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