The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. ctyrw

    ctyrw Member

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  2. unapologeticpeanut

    unapologeticpeanut New Member

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    Hi everyone, brand new to this forum! I commissioned a suit from a tailor a while back and just received the final product. The issue is that a few days before, he asked if I wanted the sides to be taken in further (basically tightening the chest), which I agreed to. To my untrained eye at least, the result looks rather messy apart from the front, and the tailor has agreed to do any necessary alterations for free.

    Based on the pictures below, there's an obvious divot on my right shoulder, a lapel gape and bunching at the sleeves and waist. Can all of these be sorted out simply by letting the fabric out at the back, or are there any other things that can be done in order to make the fit cleaner? I'd preferably like a fit that's as slim as possible, but without the flaws that come with an overly tight fit. Any other suggestions are most welcome.

    Also, being fully-canvassed, will the fit 'improve' over time, i.e. will any residual imperfections be ironed out the more it is worn?

    Many thanks! L1001733.jpg L1001735.jpg L1001738.jpg L1001739.jpg L1001743.jpg IMG_1840.JPG
     


  3. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

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    You would need to let out at waist quite a bit... And it wouldn't guarantee you a nice back as there are problems with the upper back, armscye...and trousers. Re-do the back or the whole suit probably is easier.
     


  4. unapologeticpeanut

    unapologeticpeanut New Member

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    I'm not sure re-doing the whole suit is an option... For the armscye is it a sleeve pitch issue? I requested for small armholes but he wasn't willing to go a whole lot.
    What specific alterations need to be made? It doesn't have to be perfect in the bespoke sense since I was going for a slightly slimmer fit anyway. Also I'm letting the trousers slide since my leg muscles are relatively big.
     


  5. ericjens7

    ericjens7 Well-Known Member

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    There is no way this is proper Bespoke from a tailor. It's a mess and you should honestly ask for your money back.
    The trousers were not cut for you forward hips. The jacket is too tight all over. Your pronounced blades were not accounted for. The back might be short but it's hard to tell because it is much too tight. Who ever took in the sides did a bad job sewing. Sleeve pitch is way off. Chest is clearly too tight. This should have never been sent home with you.
     


  6. Churchill W

    Churchill W Senior member

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    Sleeves and overall length are a bit short for my taste.
     


  7. MrBergschrund

    MrBergschrund Well-Known Member

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    From top to bottom, everything is too tight. thats why the chest and back and pants are not clean in overall sense. i think you should really consider loosen everything first.
     


  8. Jkwon92

    Jkwon92 New Member

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    Hi, I am brand new to this forum. I just received my suit purchase from black lapel. I am 173cm and 145 lbs.
    But am a bit concerned about the fit. Basically, for the pants, the rise are maybe an inch to inch and half too long. I do prefer a lower rise.
    The thigh areas, the knee, as well as the calves are all a bit baggy.
    The waist is a bit loose as well and does not hold my shirt in. I can comfortable stick all 4 fingers side by side within my waist with the pants on.

    The suit jacket fits pretty well, however when relaxed, the shoulders feel a bit restrictive. not sure if the shoulder width is too narrow, or if it has something to do with the chest area. In a sitting position, with my arms forward as if eating a meal, the back and shoulders fit constrictive. The chest area is a bit too small and the waist is suppressed quite a lot.

    Im not sure if this all stems from one issue or if the entire suit is just ill-fitting. I emailed black lapel about these concerns and a possible remake or alterations.

    I workout and am involved in soccer year round, so i may fill out a bit more.

    Let me know of your opinions! Open to all advice!

    Thanks for the help in advance!

    DSCF3573-3.jpg

    DSCF3570-3.jpg

    DSCF3576-3.jpg

    DSCF3577-3.jpg
     


  9. Aloysius16

    Aloysius16 Senior member

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    The jacket is significantly too tight around the waist, and also a little too tight around the upper back, hence the restricted feeling. It's possible to correct this if there is enough fabric allowance.

    The jacket is also 1 or 2 inches too short, although you may had asked for a 'modern slim fit' which would explain this kind of length. The length cannot be altered. Sleeves perhaps a smidgen too long (no more than half an inch)

    In other respects the jacket looks quite ok for a slim style.

    The trouser shape looks absolutely fine from what I can see. They do not hang particularly well, but this might be due to the loose waist and high rise meaning you are not wearing the at the necessary position. It is hard to comment on the appropriateness of the rise at it cannot be seen
     


  10. Jkwon92

    Jkwon92 New Member

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    Thank you for your response!

    I agree with what you have said. The waist is definitely too tight, do you know roughly how many inches around the waist and upper back would be a better fit from eyeballing? I did ask for more fabric allowance but it is about an inch and does not extend to the tail of the suit.

    In terms of trousers, they are too loose so even with belt, they would most likely be sliding down. How much can the pants be altered without changing too much of the pockets?

    So the shoulders are fine?
     


  11. Aloysius16

    Aloysius16 Senior member

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    I should have said I'm not a tailor, so these are just my comments on the fit.

    I would have thought the jacket would need to be let out at the sides by at least half an inch on each side, perhaps more. My only concern is that the tightness is mostly at the lower back, and less at the front, so the issue is possibility exascerbatwd by the cut as well as the tightness.

    You can take in the waist plenty. Up to an inch and a half is fine. Even two inches won't make the pockets look noticeably strange.

    The shoulders look ok in a very slim style.
     


  12. pnin22

    pnin22 Senior member

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    Question about alterations at Brooks Brothers: I have an erect posture and in most OTR suits I have folds across the shoulder from the neck and a roll behind the collar. I have previously bought a BB Fitzgerald and had them shorten the back from the shoulder seam, to miraculous results (best fitting suit I own).

    I recently brought my newest Fitzgerald to a new BB location seeking the same treatment, but they just refused to touch it. "Everything fine, no roll" said the tailor while pulling down the vent to make the back appear clean... I didn't buy the suit at their location, but I am willing to pay ~$100 for the alteration.. what's the deal?
     


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