1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. bnovc

    bnovc Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    62
    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2012
    Location:
    San Jose, California
    Oh, duh. That was a pretty stupid comment...
     
  2. itsmejson

    itsmejson Senior member

    Messages:
    269
    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2012
    just received my macys bar III suit in the mail. I tried on the bar iii
    suits they had in store and the 38S & 34x32 trousers were perfect,
    however because they didn't have the color I wanted I ordered it.
    - it seems as though this suit was made with different measurements
    but wanted to get some input with it.

    - if the suit jacket is too small around the waist is it possible to let
    it out a little or should I exchange and get a 40S, then have it taken
    in? I am afraid that the 40S might be too wide in the shoulders.

    any feedback would be appreciated!

    [​IMG]
     
  3. sding

    sding Member

    Messages:
    6
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2011
    Beginner, trying to spruce up my work wear. This jacket feels a bit big on me. Wondering if this is something I can get tailored to look good or should just return. Thanks for any feedback.

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  4. sding

    sding Member

    Messages:
    6
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2011
    duplicate post. sorry.
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2012
  5. UltraMagnetical

    UltraMagnetical Senior member

    Messages:
    340
    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2010
    

    that one is already slightly too wide in the shoulders ( you can see divots) I dont think a 40 will work...but the midsection can be let out a certain amount
     
  6. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    

    if the shoulders are comfortable then dont look for trouble.
    there should be some cloth available to let out the waist.
    have the tailor check to see if there is enough in there.
    sleeves could be shorter.
     
  7. Jkhan82

    Jkhan82 Senior member

    Messages:
    135
    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2010
    Location:
    New York, N.Y.
    What do you guys think about these pants? to short?

    also, how can I get rid of the rolls of fabric that appear when I walk?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Ignore the shoes below....

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2012
  8. Master-Classter

    Master-Classter Senior member

    Messages:
    8,463
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2007
    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    question for the tailors - I know it's fairly common to have a dropped shoulder, but I have this nagging feeling that often the breast pocket adds another layer that keeps the chest area filled, so that hte other side collapses without it, making it seem like that second side has a lower shoulder, when maybe both are low... am I right with the hunch there? As in, does the breast pocket provide that side of the chest with more reinforcement so it doesn't show the fabric compressed?
     
  9. blc456

    blc456 Senior member

    Messages:
    113
    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2009
    Hello,

    I recently got a suit that is the best OTR fit I have ever had (Benjamin suit from Ehaberdasher), but the one issue is some collar gap. Is this fixable? And if so how involved is it?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Thanks for any help! :)
     
  10. Brendon

    Brendon Senior member

    Messages:
    115
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2012
    Hi the outside welt or Breast pocket does fill out a fused suit on that side. If you went to a Bespoke Tailor who use Camel and Horse hair in the body this would not be an issue.
    The most important thing in a suit is the cut. This is how you appear in your suit from 5 yards plus away. When you are close to someone in proximity they will be looking at your eyes face etc rather than the detail in your suit.
    Hope this helps
    Brendon
     
  11. Brendon

    Brendon Senior member

    Messages:
    115
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2012
    I cannot see anything to recommend this jacket. Send it back. The alterations would probably cost more than the jacket and even then it would be a poor job.
    good luck
    Brendon
     
  12. Brendon

    Brendon Senior member

    Messages:
    115
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2012
    This is acceptable in England if the coat is what is termed very straight in the pattern...Sitting off the neck may not be a problem if the cut is flattering. However I think I can see by the lapel that this coat is crooked and is trying to jump to the neck. Therefore if you have chosen fashion forward ie actually too tight all over then the coat will leap off the neck if the coat is too tight in the chest. ie it wont sit down. If this is not the case all you can do is pass the back up on the coat. Make a mark on the front side seam , another mark on the back side seam say 1/2 an inch below the corresponding mark. Move the lower mark up to the top marrk pushing the seams past each other. You will have added some length to the back of the coat which may help. The off the peg coats will not have the appropriate inlay to do the correct alteration which is to correctly balance the coat.
    Hope this helps
    Good luck
    Brendon
     
  13. Brendon

    Brendon Senior member

    Messages:
    115
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2012
    The trousers are clattering into your calf as you stand on your trousers. The button on the jacket is too high which accentuates the coat projecting outwards from below the button. Trousers hard to fix. All you can do is clear out the seat. as an exercise to demonstrate what you are doing turn side on as you are and stand errect upright and see the trousers tuck up under your seat and hit your calf muscles.
    A pleated trouser with a larger fork area may help disguise this a little
    Good luck, suggestion go to London see a Savile Row Tailor for about 5k US$
    If I can think of anything will reply further
    regards
    Brendon
     
  14. Brendon

    Brendon Senior member

    Messages:
    115
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2012
    In my opinion the coat is too long in the back ie back balance if this is your natural posture. Fashion garment do tend to be too tight rather than fitting. Look likes you have slept in it. Look at the trousers side on, they are like corrugated roofing iron or cardboard. Welcome to the world of fashion Style over substance. When you have moved your arms up the coat is trying to fly off your body. Always a sure sign of an off the peg or factory made to measure
    Good luck
    regards
    Brendon
     
  15. Brendon

    Brendon Senior member

    Messages:
    115
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2012
    Your posture is errect. Whatever you do buy a suit with a centre vent so that the back can be passed down as an alterarion with an alteration tailor. Your trousers are too short and your posture causes all sorts of problems in the drape of the leg of a trouser. The armhole depth is not causing the bunching of the shoulder. Think of the inside vs the outside of the curve. Your front is the outside and your back the inside. One is longer one is shorter. Suggest you see a Bespoke Tailor who gives you 3 fittings etc
    good luck
    regards
    Brendon
     
  16. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    

    Yes, definitely too big. Try other sizes and different cuts they would have more shape at the waist but If you stick to having a cotton jacket, don't try to over fit it, leave it a bit relaxed.
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2012
  17. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    

    Seeing two things in these pictures. Collar puling away from the neck and the jacket moving back but if you are holding the camera for these shots, it may be a effecting this. Most common cause for this is square/ high shoulders but cannot diagnose properly without full length shots and a view of your posture.
     
  18. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

    Messages:
    5,059
    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2006
    Location:
    Cambridge, England
    Brendon, you're comments are not very useful when it is impossible to tell which poster each comment is in reply to.
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    

    The pocket does add a certain amount of structure that fills in the chest area. It's not that you have two low shoulders, you have sloping shoulders. You can fill in the gap between your shoulder and the jacket with a bit of padding. That's the only way to adjust without removing the sleeves and cutting the shoulder to be more sloped.
     
  20. blc456

    blc456 Senior member

    Messages:
    113
    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2009
    

    Thanks Despos. Let me see if I can get some full body shots today and post those. I was not holding the camera but it does seem like my jacket "moves back" from where it originally sits (When I put it on it sits against the collar but once I start moving and it settles it seems to fall back off the collar/shoulder a bit.)
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2012

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by