The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. boned

    boned Senior member

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    Hoping I can get a price check. Went to a tailor shop called "Tails" in Chicago today after reading a bunch of recommendations on here (Oxxford tailor named Joe worked there). Was very disappointed to hear he retired two years ago. What I saw was your standard cleaners/alterations fare (Two asian women). I brought in a suit jacket and 4 pairs of pants for alterations.
    • Suit jacket
      • Take in on sides - $85
    • Suit pants
      • Take in seat - $25
      • Shorten crotch - $45 (tbh I don't even know what the difference is between this and taking in the seat.)
      • Taper & Hem - $55
    • Pants 1
      • Shorten crotch - $45
      • Taper & Hem - $55
    • Pants 2
      • Shorten crotch $45
      • Taper & Hem - $55
    • Jeans
      • Taper & Hem - $55
    Total: $465

    Did I get taken to the cleaners? Pun intended.
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2017
  2. boomstick

    boomstick New Member

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    I have a problem with virtually all my pants, including a few that were made to measure by several different tailors. They all have creases in the seat right under the butt when I stand upright (like this). Those creases disappear if I move my legs forward a bit, which would point to a flat butt, but that is not the case (I have muscular thighs). Is there any tailor around here who knows what gives and how to deal with this?
     
  3. GoYouNU

    GoYouNU Member

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    Hey, guys. I bought a Tom Ford suit and, while it's new with tags, it appears the sleeves are already fitted with surgeon's cuffs. I'm relying on photos and don't have the suit in-hand yet; perhaps Tom Ford sells them with sham buttonholes. In which case there's no problem.

    But, assuming the cuffs are functional, am I taking a risk in compromising the quality of the suit by having the sleeves taken up at the shoulder? My tailor is a bespoke suit maker so I have a lot of faith in him. But I don't know exactly how intricate a TF shoulder is and I don't think it's fair to expect him to know the ins-and-outs of the brand.
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2017
  4. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    Pretty sure back in the days it was just unfinished, is it from Botique or eBay? Better find out once you have it in hand...
     
  5. MannyGermany

    MannyGermany Active Member

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    Not far off what I pay. I have worked with the same two tailors so I get breaks on things. The taper and hem is about average and the crotch (rise problem I guess?) seems reasonable.

    My advice is to take a few things at a time in. My main more expensive tailor knows exactly how I like things. Also the tailors I work with will re adjust things if I am not happy.

    Bottom line anywhere from $100 (basic) to $200 (mid) per suit is about right and maybe much more if you need more work.

    The taper is often needed when doing a hem or you will have far too much material flapping around at the bottom of your trousers.
     
  6. GoYouNU

    GoYouNU Member

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    I visited a boutique over the weekend and, indeed, new TF suits are sold with unfinished sleeves. I purchased mine from a menswear seller on Ebay. They have over 4,000 positive feedback in the last 12 months. I don't doubt the authenticity or anything. But now I'm wondering if perhaps it had been a floor model.

    So the question about the alterations remains: do you think a TF sleevehead is something your average bespoke tailor can handle without messing up? Am I being unduly concerned?
     
  7. 1up

    1up Senior member

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    Hi friends, looking for some feedback on Samuelsohn suit I received from Saks.

    I purchased it at a great price at a recent sale, $350 CAD, in a size 38R and I'm trying to see if it's worth it to make the alterations to get it to fit slimmer and more fashion forward & contemporary, or if I should just return it.

    My best fitting suits are MTM from Suit Supply, and the fabric/cut of this Samuelsohn is noticeably better.

    [​IMG]
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    The obvious alterations and likely price points I can think of are:
    - Taper & Hem Pants ($40)
    - Let out seat ($20) - hopefully there is enough fabric and it fixes the pocket flare
    - Take in the jacket in the body ($30) -
    - Slim and shorten the sleeves just a touch to account for my sloping right shoulder ($50?)

    Are there any other glaring errors that can't be tailored? The jacket length seems a touch long/traditional and might not give the look I'm after? Worth making the changes or just send this one back?
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2017
  8. hiendu

    hiendu Member

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    Hey guys,

    Thanks for all the help you guys provide in this thread.

    Bought this Benjamin Sartorial suit. Really love the suit and obviously needs some alterations, but not sure if it's worth altering or exchanging/returning for another size.

    Model: Classico II
    Size: 36S

    [​IMG] Too much bumping in the shoulders?

    My biggest concern are the pants. They're obviously too tight. I'm wondering if it's worth/enough fabric to let out in the seat and waist or if I should just go for a size up.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. TwillPoplin

    TwillPoplin Well-Known Member

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    Hi, I was directed here from the Luxire thread for advice on the fit of my trousers. Any comments? What would you change?
    01.jpg 02.jpg 03.jpg 04.jpg 05.jpg
     
  10. Michell

    Michell Member

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  11. Michell

    Michell Member

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    the crotch is tight too.
    If the side seam width is over 2cm, it is workable to let out the seam, or it will be still tight for the seat
     
  12. Michell

    Michell Member

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  13. MJ248

    MJ248 New Member

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    Hey guys,

    Hoping I could get some advice on the jacket of a Spier and Mackay suit I bought recently:
    Size 36R contemporary fit (different pants on in pictures)
    I'm 5'8 around 150ish lbs

    IMG_5645.PNG IMG_5646.PNG View attachment 784154 IMG_5647.PNG IMG_5649.PNG

    I'd really appreciate general advice, but my (hopefully not too uninformed) initial thoughts have been to maybe take it in a bit at the waist and possibly slim the sleeves a bit. Not sure if these changes would lead to too much of a "trendy" look, but, esp. since its black, I sort of want it's silhouette to be as sharp/slim-ish as possible on a OTR suit like this. FWIW, I tried on a size 38R and though I liked how it lay on the front more and loved its lower button stance, it was just a bit too roomy in the chest/arm holes area.


    I'd also appreciate some pointers on a pair of Ben Sherman pants. They're clearly too tight, and my un-expert guess is that the seat needs to be let out? Thanks so much for everything you guys do.

    IMG_5650.PNG IMG_5651.PNG IMG_5652.PNG
     
  14. pi34

    pi34 Senior member

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    Hey all, I'm currently trying to find a proper answer on Google and searching Styleforum, but I thought I'd just post something in case it's a really quick / easy answer.

    Can a tailor make a waist .5-1" wider? What would the general limit be to this type of alteration and is it relatively easy to reverse without long-term damage to the garment? Finally, is it something that's relatively simple/straightforward or I'll need to possibly go into NYC for tailor (I still don't know a tailor who does surgeon cuffs on Long Island.)

    (Basically, I have a wedding coming up to go to... I thought I could get away with slacks and a jacket, but I rather not risk it. I also rather not buy a suit for one wedding, especially when I need to slim back down a bit. The pants in question actually button and fully close, but I don't really want to worry about the button flying off.)

    After a quick google-fu, this image may help? This is the center back seam of the pants.

    IMG_2509[1].JPG
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2017 at 7:50 PM

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