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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

catlettsl

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Its impressive thats a damn good OTR pattern.

He could maybe use a little more length on the jacket by going for a long as he is 6'2" but otherwise it's great.

Initially I thought the same then I talked to a buddy of mine who does some MTM stuff for a living. We said the jacket length was fine but I should lengthen the sleeves some and that would give the appearance of a longer jacket. Does this sound right?


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catlettsl

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Here's a side profile for reference



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moopband

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Looking to get your thoughts on this shirt and what edits I can make on the next one to make the fit better. Overall, I think the arm holes should be cut closer to the chest, which would remove that excess fabric below the shoulders at the front.




 

Legal Eagle

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Just got this suit. No alterations have been made. It's completely unfinished. Here is a front shot. I can get better pics but I am having my tailor take a look tomorrow.

My concerns are primarily the shoulders. There's a crinkling below the back center collar- like basically all OTR suits I try on- and this appears to be having some effect on the shoulders. Do the shoulders appear far too wide? The padding is slightly more than I typically associate with RPL.

Also, I wasn't positive the jacket isn't a tad long, I'm always on the cusp of a short vs regular, but this jacket had a BOC length that is equal to my short length suit coats, albeit with a slightly lower button stance at about 2 inches above my naval. I'll probably have the waist taken out a tad too, although I left the tacking on the side vents for now.

About me: 5'8" or so, 205 lbs. So much weight gained in the past 5 years. This is a 44R custom fit.



Thanks in advance.
 
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Legal Eagle

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Just got back from my tailor. He says he can do the suit. It is too big in the shoulders so he will remove the sleeves and take the shoulders in. He's also going to take the jacket out a little on the sides. Also, he is going to remove the back collar wrinkle and do the sleeves. I'm going with nonfunctioning buttonholes for the time being. I need to make sure everything is spot on before committing to buttonholes, if in fact I do it. He recommended against dropping down to the 42 because it would be too tight in the chest. I though his cost for the jacket work was very reasonable so I will let him have a go.
 

othertravel

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Just got back from my tailor. He says he can do the suit. It is too big in the shoulders so he will remove the sleeves and take the shoulders in. He's also going to take the jacket out a little on the sides.  Also, he is going to remove the back collar wrinkle and do the sleeves.  I'm going with nonfunctioning buttonholes for the time being. I need to make sure everything is spot on before committing to buttonholes, if in fact I do it. He recommended against dropping down to the 42 because it would be too tight in the chest. I though his cost for the jacket work was very reasonable so I will let him have a go. 

That sounds like alot of work. Have you tried other cuts that have softer shoulders? It looks like you're wearing the Anthony, which has very thick shoulder pads.
 

Legal Eagle

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The suit is actually the Drake. There is a decent amount of shoulder padding in it. The cost to redo the jacket is only $70, and my tailor was confident that he would do a great job. $10 to do cuffs on the pants So, I'll basically be into the suit for $680. I know he's a great tailor, probably the best in my city and he seemed very convincing. Hoping I didn't make a mistake, but I guess there's only one way to truly find out.
 

othertravel

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The suit is actually the Drake.  There is a decent amount of shoulder padding in it.   The cost to redo the jacket is only $70, and my tailor was confident that he would do a great job.  $10 to do cuffs on the pants So, I'll basically be into the suit for $680.  I know he's a great tailor, probably the best in my city and he seemed very convincing.  Hoping I didn't make a mistake, but I guess there's only one way to truly find out.    

Hope it works out for you!
 

Legal Eagle

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Thanks, I hope so too. You got me thinking though, does the Drake PL model normally have a lot of shoulder padding? Suit is from Fall 2014, purchased NWT.
 

othertravel

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Thanks, I hope so too. You got me thinking though, does the Drake PL model normally have a lot of shoulder padding? Suit is from Fall 2014, purchased NWT.  

I think so. Check out Jeff's review of of an RLPL's construction:

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.ca/search/label/Ralph Lauren Purple Label

Quote: "What is somewhat surprising is the size of the pad- this is the thickest pad I have seen in RTW for a long time. Mr. Lauren is known to appreciate a more imposing shoulder than some of his American colleagues."

I have high/square shoulders, so a strong shoulder doesn't work for me. After I figured that out, I've gravitated to soft shoulder models.

One of the most helpful pieces of advice I've gotten from SF regarding suits, is that shoulder fit is paramount. If the shoulder looks good, anything else can be altered (for the most part).
 

Legal Eagle

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I have similar shoulders. A 42R in Samuelsohn Gable, RTW is about as good as I can get off the rack, as far as not having the dreaded collar rumple. It does require some side alterations in waist. My wedding suit was a Gable MTM.

But there was something about not having a RLPL suit (owning shirts and ties, etc) that made we want to take the plunge. Plus at that price point, it was hard to pass. Anyway, I'm either going to be happy, or will have learned a lesson and end up owning a less than perfect/ideal suit.
 

Rrd0084

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Am really interested in your opinions. I think I'm pretty close to a proper fit but it is a little snug. I am considering sizing up. Thanks for your help.



 

maximscandi

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Hey guys!

I recently purchased these pants but unfortunately the waist is at least one size too big. Just wanted to see if anyone has a rough opinion of how many cm's the waist can be altered before throwing off the balance. The fit is good in the seat but the waist is 4-5cm too large. Is there a risk for the pockets to get too close to each other?

Would be great to hear some thoughts!
 

Portabiti

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Hello, can anyone please educate me on what is going on with my sleeves? To me it looks like the creasing is caused by narrow shoulders. However, the shoulders do not feel narrow at all. Is it fixable?






 

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