Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.
It is too short.
It is okay to wear casually.
Do not take in the waist.
I've lengthened jackets successfully by opening the curve of the front edge to a point in the hem of the new length. You will get the infamous SF open quarters. It helps if the fronts are not very open and you have to search everywhere the jacket will be made longer that outlets are there. Sometimes at the vents the cloth will be trimmed away and there is nothing to work with. If I knew how to draw lines on the pictures I could demonstrate. Some cloth will cooperate and not show a crease or any marks of the old hemline. If it's cotton, has a fuzzy nap or maybe has silk in cloth, you will continue to see a line from the previous hem. If the jacket is old there could be a difference in the color of the cloth. Lighter on top and darker where the hem was turned under.
Chris is right about doing that, but most ready-made garments will be fairly cut away to begin with so that alteration might look a bit goofy.
@Chris- did you do it by hand? Open up the buttonhole? Or just start the shaping well below the lower buttonhole?
Sometimes by hand but mostly by machine and as the previous post said, it helps if the fronts are closed. I start below the bottom buttonhole. I would mark the new shape on the fronts with chalk and try it on the client before opening anything to see if the new shape of the front will look normal or altered too severely. If the client agrees with the lines then we lengthen this way. Biggest problem is the bottom front can look too rounded and having sufficient length on the inside lining. Have to piece the canvass in front a bit too.
Any advice on alterations to alleviate the flaring out of jacket past the waist?
Is it possible for a tailor to shorten the part where my dress shirt is attached to the sleeve? (so my shirt won't hang below my shoulders)
Just get a new shirt which fits, or go MTM.
TuckerSon, my tailor is actually very good with these alterations. The problem comes down to sleeve length. As my tailor explained, the shoulder is taken in by removing the sleeve and cutting back the shoulder. The sleeve is reattached. If the sleeve has some extra length, no problem. If not, the sleeve needs to be lengthened. Depending upon the cost of the shirt, it may be cheaper to just replace it.
I'm going to be attempting to alter some of my own shirts in the next few days (some are kind of old and not too expensive, so I don't mind taking a chance trying to alter them myself instead of paying a tailor). Now I'm not exactly sure about how each shirt is supposed to fit exactly. I think the two in this post fit well; can they be my benchmark for altering my other ones?
And here are the ones I think need a bit of alteration. Please tell me what you think needs to be changed (eg too loose around waist, or hips, or sleeves, or too long, etc)
sorry for so many posts
I'll be using the "pinch and pin" seen here in this video to alter the sides
Can I also use it for the sleeves? or would the cuff pose a problem? And of course if the shirt is too long I'll just tuck it in.
Thanks in advance for your help/opinions
I got this RTW suit in 38R, I plan to get the sleeves shortened, any other alterations I should make? Thanks!
It seems I could use more structured shoulders for future suits
Is the coat too far off to be tailored?
It especially looks too big from the back.
I recently got my J Crew striped tweed sportscoat in
I think I want to get: Sleeves shortened a bit
Waist brought in
Maybe arms as a whole a little slimmer?
Sorry those are the only pictures I have.
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