The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Despos, here is a picture of the jacket unbuttoned and another one of it buttoned for comparison's sake:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Slightly off-topic: Does anyone know why so many of us have a dropped shoulder?
     
  3. Big A

    Big A Senior member

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    The weight of being awesome . . . .
     
  4. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    Most people have one shoulder slightly lower than the other. Nobody is perfectly symmetrical.
     
  5. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It's the bone structure coming off your spine. No really perfect shapes occur naturally. Very common to have a high hip on the same side as your low shoulder. Not 100% of the time but very common.

    Everyone has a different line to their back too, the curvature of your spine.
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2012
  6. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    this was not a comment on your trousers.
    the fit of the trousers tell us where your torso ends and your legs begin. provided the trousers fit properly. it also tells us where your waist is at. [f we were fitting you in person we can tell this by touch.
    here there is only a picture to make a judgement. take a look at the pictures. see the belt, is that your actual waist? do you want the jacket to cover the seat of your pants?
    please give us a break. its tough enough to give you a proper judgement just from a picture. sometimes even a picture can be deceptive. we do not want to be haphazard about advice.
     
  7. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    It is Brooks Brothers, Fitzgerald cut.
     
  8. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The fit is pretty good balance wise but I think you have a broader chest than the actual size you need. Meaning you may measure 44 but the width and shape of your chest would require the front part to be sized to a 46 and your back and shoulders require a 42. Averages to a 44 but you don't have the cloth where you need it over the chest and get too much cloth across the blades and shoulder.
    Your posture isn't extreme. If you were erect the center vent would open like ^ but it hangs straight.
     
  9. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Thanks, this makes perfect sense based on what I see when I try on different sizes. Is there anything that can be done by a tailor to correct this issue?
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2012
  10. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If the tailors says" let me make you a suit that fits you" say yes.

    RTW are finished suits, you have to adapt to the suit. Alterations to resize the suit or for extensive posture issues aren't advised.
     
  11. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Would made to measure solve this or do my issues really require the creation of a pattern specific to me? Either way, looks like I need to start saving my pennies.
     
  12. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]
     
  13. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Every MTM program is different in what can be done. You have to select MTM in the same way you find RTW that fit's you best.
    90% of fitting a full chest is cutting and shaping the canvass the way I work and if that's what you need, MTM may not go that far but you have to ask. Some programs may have a method to cut for this. Most likely it will be from an independent shop and not a MTM from a RTW brand. If you worked with someone like Adrian Jules they would know how to cut for you. You could call them and see if anyone uses them for MTM in your area.
     
  14. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thank you Mr. D.
     
  15. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Are you suggesting that my body isn't perfect? Sir, I am offended!
     

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