The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    That's not what they are doing. The tailor is shortening the sleeves an additional amount (close to one inch) even though the working buttonholes have already been cut. Hence, my concern on how the sleeve is going to look when finished.
     
  2. Willin

    Willin Senior member

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    I have been reviewing fits on the MC WAYWRN and reviewing comments for a while now. It has made me re-analyze my fits and I am reaching a few conclusions that I need advice on.

    I am 5'9" ~180 with a stocky bodybuilder type build. I have coats that are 40 - 42R and my waist is 32. I have come to the conclusion that my 40R jackets are typically a touch tight at the shoulder but the biggest problem is that I have a thick chest and the jackets all bow at that area. The 42R seems to be the only jacket that my chest will fit in without bowing because there is more material from the shoulder across the chest. The problem is that my waist is 32 so the 42R makes my whole fit look boxy and makes it seem like I have a pot belly hidden somewhere underneath my coat.

    Is it typically possible to alter a coat so that it has more material from the shoulder across the chest? Is there any specification that I can look for in a coat to alleviate this problem? This issue is causing obvious problems like an X at the button point, etc.

    Thanks for advice!
     
  3. inlandisland

    inlandisland Senior member

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    Sounds like you just need to get coats that fit in the shoulder/chest and have them taken in at the waist. Taking in at the waist can be done at side seams or the back seam, or a combination thereof. A decent tailor should be able to advise you on this on a jacket by jacket basis. Letting out a RTW jacket that is already too tight is probably going to be very hit or miss.
     
  4. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Isaia. Yay or nay? How are the shoulders?

    Sleeves need to be lengthened about 1/2 inch, and collar needs to be shortened.

    Any idea how to get the lapels to lay flatter with just the second button done?
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2012
  5. Seph

    Seph Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    yay
     
  6. GasparddeColigny

    GasparddeColigny Senior member

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    To my eyes the sleeves are long enough as is, the quarters/fronts however are very closed. From the back it looks like it's a bit large in the shoulders. Might have a sleeve pitch issue too.
    I say nay.
     
  7. HalfCanvas

    HalfCanvas Senior member

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    On the Isaia, I think it looks promising (a bit of tailoring needed of course), but the real question is how much better/worse does this fit you compared to other available brands? More generally, it is difficult to get a good sense of a suit and/or sportcoat when you are wearing a t-shirt underneath it. Throw on the dress shirt you are going to be wearing with it (and preferably a tie, and if it is a suit, the pants), and it will give you/us a better idea of what it is going to look like when all put together.
     
  8. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Any tailors around? I can't quite figure out why the lapels won't lay flat. I know I have "erect" posture, but there seems to be enough room in the chest.

    Chest is about 20.5, would you recommend upping it to 21'' on future jackets?
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2012
  9. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

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    Thanks in advance!!


    So is it true that one of the tailors who have been more than wonderful in helping with critiques in this thread is from San Francisco? I am going to my tailor this weekend in Los Gatos, would definitely postpone the trip to make it out and see one of you gentleman in the North Bay instead.

    I ask because I have 2 suits, similar to the one I will show, that I am getting tailored. I like the suits in general. I would not categorize them as "power suits" by SF standards, more like work horses good enough for my starting career. But as I am planning to get the remaining two suits tailored, I am also venturing out to more jackets/ sport coats.


    I am posting to see whether the jackets currently are too big/wide in the shoulders on me. The jacket allows "perfect" layering of a variety of combinations: shirt +/- sweater +/- light down jacket!

    I am just wondering if I should
    A) Stick to the same shoulder measurements, or go .25" smaller. Currently 17.5" shoulders on jackets in general.
    B) Should I slim down the jackets?

    Again, I like the overall fitting currently but I am asking out of curiosity in question B, and more about fit with question A.

    Appreciate the feedback!​

    PHOTOS!: :)

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    Layering the jacket here: :lol:
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    Honest opinions please, but keep it relevant....these suits are not MC approved by any measure FWIW.

    THANK YOU! :bigstar:
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2012
  10. inlandisland

    inlandisland Senior member

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    Leave it to a pro to answer, but I will say that from the side shots it seems the lapel is not just bowing, it's bent right into a peak. from the back however it looks like there is possibly some extra fabric. Seems like something is off. Are these shots fresh out of a bag or something?
     
  11. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Looking for any tips from the tailors on what needs to be done to make this jacket fit better. Just got it back from Brooks Brothers and was happy with what I saw in the mirror, but am not happy with how big it looks in the pictures. I see excess fabric around the shoulder blades and there does not appear to be any v to the jacket. Does the chest/shoulder blades need some sort of suppression? Any thoughts?




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  12. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    you have answered your own question. yes the 42 is your size. there is no way to make the chest larger on a RTW jacket.
    some stores carry suits in an athletic cut. it would have a 42 chest and shoulders with a smaller waist area.
    one of these may need fewer alterations.
    take a look at the tutorials "how many ways to take in a jacket" and also "trouser alterations".
     
  13. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    its not just the erect posture. its the "full chest".
    was this jacket M2M?
     
  14. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    It's an OTR, older model Isaia jacket
     
  15. cxbxw

    cxbxw Well-Known Member

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    I just bought my first blazer in preparation for employment. What do you guys think of the fit? How could it be improved? I'm a total beginner. Ignore casual chinos.

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    Last edited: Feb 14, 2012

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