The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Sorry, I didn't want to mean I have an erect posture (which I don't), just that I'm a bit more erect in one pic than the other. If you realize, the position of my arms relative to my back is different in each pic; my stomach is puffing forward in the coatless one, but it's not on the other. It's the jacket that is bulging out. In fact the silhouette of the coat looks better when both buttons are done, as if it was cut to be that way; that makes me think a lower button stance would fix things up a little, but I'm no expert...
     


  2. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    its the front balance thats too short. the front is being pulled up. see how the horizontal plaids are slanted up.
     


  3. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Thanks! So, what should I ask for when going the MTM route? I'm gonna have it done with a tailor, but it's likely that he will only take my measurements and send them over to a factory; I don't know if he will take things like this into account. I'm already going to ask for a lower button stance and wider lapels to help disguise that belly of mine, should I ask him if it's possible to make the front a bit larger than the back to help with balance?

    Or perhaps I should wear this jacket when I get measured, and tell him what I'd like to fix with MTM garments?

    Thanks again for your help.
     


  4. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It is hard to diagnose everything form just a side view. Your posture does look erect, plus you stand hip forward. Cannot judge the button position from a side view. Front and back view and a picture of the jacket unbuttoned would help.
    Definitely wear this jacket to get measured for a MTM garment and just describe what you want to be different. Don't direct them. The pattern they use may be very different than what you are wearing and may need different adjustments from the cut of this jacket. Let them decide what adjustments to make. If the tailor you use for this does not understand balance issues or understand what you want to accomplish, go some where else.
    Do you have this issue with every jacket or just this one?
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2012


  5. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    I believe the tailor I'm using is pretty good judging from the work he's done in alterations; his bespoke work looks good as well. I just haven't had any garments made or measured for at his place, and I really hope he knows what to do. I'd just like to suggest what to fix and I'll definately be wearing one of these RTW jackets when I get measured..

    I have the problem with this jacket too (I've posted it previously, it's from the same maker):

    [​IMG]


    Other makers I've tried also tend to do the same. I have the feeling that both the waist and the button stance are very high, which shouldn't be necessarily bad, but maybe it isn't ideal for my body shape and posture?

    yes if you do have a m2m suit made, do wear this suit. it will focus the tailors attention on the problem. also take copies of these pictures the shirt sleeve, the jacket side view, and the front view. your tailor may want to send these to the m2m company with your order.

    the shirt sleeve picture shows the problem.
    draw a straight line from the chest to the stomach. it should touch the front of each. it slants outward as it goes down.
    if you continue that straight line on its way down you can see how far out it goes.
    and thats what your coats are doing.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 26, 2012


  6. Hadrius

    Hadrius Active Member

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    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]


    If this thread is still running... I'm looking for opinions on the fit. Obviously. the jacket sleeves are not finished yet, and to me it looks like there's a weird neck-thing going on, and the back needs to be slimmed a bit. But I'm not a professional- are these things fixable?
     


  7. black_umbrella

    black_umbrella Senior member

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    This is seriously off topic, but christ! The power of a DSLR to make a mirror shot look interesting! Shallow and intersting focus, color depth, I wonder if I can convince my wife we really need a nicer camera......
     


  8. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ask your wife to sign on and ask us. we promise to lie for you.
     


  9. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Looks to me like you are in between a regular and a long, I am assuming this jacket is a regular. This is a touch short but a long is a full inch more and more than you need. The neck thing is from prominent blades and I think the left blade is bigger than the right. You have a right low shoulder anyway. Shorten right sleeve 1/4" and the left 1/2". Pant has long back rise so they fall on your calf and causes the diagonal wrinkles on the back of the leg.
     


  10. Hadrius

    Hadrius Active Member

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    Thanks much Despos- I assume all of these are relatively fixable? jacket wise, at least.
     


  11. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    I purchased a blazer from Brooks Brothers where the tailor was to shorten the sleeves and then make functioning buttons on the cuffs. The problem is the BB tailor did not shorten the sleeves appropriately before making the functioning buttons. When I tried on the jacket yesterday, the sleeves appeared unaltered and it was clear they need to shorten the sleeves close to an inch to get them to the appropriate length (showing 1/4 inch of shirt cuff). The tailor told me it is not a big deal and he can easily shorten the sleeves more, but I was under the impression you cannot mess with the sleeves in such a significant way once the button holes are cut. Is there anything I should look for when trying on the jacket next week? For instance, how much distance should there be between the end of the sleeve and the first button? The blazer is a 42L (if that helps).
     


  12. Hadrius

    Hadrius Active Member

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    They can shorten from the shoulder if buttonholes are already cut.
     


  13. CalTex

    CalTex Senior member

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    I took 6 OCBD shirts to my tailor and when I brought the shirts back home I realized that they were not the same length. I know this is nothing major but all the shirts should be the same dimensions correct?

    He added darts to the shirts and took them in the sides, the arms, and length. A few of the shirts were large and a few medium and custom and classic fit.

    How would you guys go about it?
     


  14. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Depends on what dimensions the original shirts had, no? If some were already shorter than he thought appropriate, he can't add more cloth to the tails.
     


  15. CalTex

    CalTex Senior member

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    Yes I understand that, some of the shirts are longer by about an inch or two. I have not measured the shirts yet, I just made a quick observation.

    I simply thought he would make them all even, I saw the shirts and the ones I gave him were all large.
     


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