The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Bastion of

    Bastion of Member

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    Thanks! I just got back from my tailor and he will be:

    - suppressing the waist a little, from the under arm seams
    - narrowing trouser inseam by 1" (I am usually a drop 7-8, but this suit is drop 6)
    - shortening cuffs by 1/4" so it falls right to the wrist bone (the shirt in the first pics is a tad long, but normally the jacket covers all but a trace of cuff)

    When he finishes that work (and I post the pics), I will see what he says about lengthening it 1/2".

    Any other feedback?
     


  2. Achilles_

    Achilles_ Senior member

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    Thank you for the help!
     


  3. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    those ripples on the upper back may be tightness across the back.
    a problem below the collar, ask your tailor.
    you have erect posture, making the bottom of the jacket kick out..
    shortening the back at the top may correct that.
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2012


  4. phr33dom

    phr33dom Member

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    Here's one of three bespoke suits made at Narry tailor in Bangkok in November 2011. Cost USD490 each suit including waistcoat and 2 pairs of trousers.

    The material is a little creased out of the suitcase, never had time to iron it.

    Critique welcome...

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     


  5. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    as long as the shoulder measurement is your usual, leave it be.
    after you have worn it a while and it still bothers, you can still change it.
    i take it that you mean that the lapel bellows out away from your chest.
    two main reasons to cause this.

    the coats chest is too tight.

    or the angle of the shoulder is too crooked for you.
    here the front of the shoulder seam must be moved outward. but this can
    only be done if there is enough cloth under the collar at the gorge.
     


  6. poorman

    poorman Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Can this coat be altered to fit me? What exactly needs to be done? As you can see it's pretty big everywhere. :embar:

    The coat is fully lined. I don't know if that will affect anything.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2012


  7. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    the full lining does not matter.
    cant tell from the picture if the shoulders are ok. if they are too wide then the sleeves would need to be removed in the process.
    if the side seam goes through the pockets then they must be removed and then replaced.
    sleeves to be shortened also.
    the whole thing can be done, with a potential for a large bill.
    get a firm quote from the tailor first.
     


  8. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    yes j p , you should have checked off erect posture. thats why the button pulls upward.
    the coat length could be a little longer, unless you prefer a shorter coat.
    the lines of draw on each side of the button says the waist is too tight..
    the lapels bow out because the chest is too tight.
    it may be the left sleeve lining is twisted.
    the right shoulder is a mess some sort of construction mistake was made it needs a hands on fitting.
    the back view shows a waist so tight that it looks like a womans corset shape of the 1890s.
    add to that its tight over the butt making it looks like there is a bustle to go with the corset.

    the trouser waist should close with a small tug and no need to suck it in.
    wrinkle across the crotch, pants are too tight.
    the pockets bow out, pants are too tight.

    sorry j p i dont mean to be harsh.
    i think you should send the suit back.
    and with it you should send all those pictures of you wearing it.
    do not depend on just telling them what is wrong, they must see it as well.
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2012


  9. Achilles_

    Achilles_ Senior member

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    Is bespoke my only option? Or would MTM be something to look into?

    Edit: I know bespoke is not the only option, but I am wondering if MTM would only be marginally better than the best RTW, in which case saving for bespoke might be best.
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2012


  10. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Quote:
    Hello,

    Thanks for your input. I've read that tutorial, but it looks like I'm not displaying many symptoms of improper balance; no roll under the collar, the back looks clean, and the bottom is parallel to the ground. I'll see if I can post pics of how my jackets actually look; maybe it's just the fat on my lower torso that's distorting the drape, or maybe it's the button stance. Perhaps they're even not that bad for RTW and I'm just being paranoid. [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2012


  11. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    shortening the back at the top will go a long way,. or doing plan D as in the tutorial taking in sides.
    your tailor by handling the cloth can tell what will work.

    if you decide to try a m2m suit. get it from a company rep that comes here from hon kong or wherever.
    or get from a tailor here that deals with a m2m company.
    you want someone that you can talk to right here.
     


  12. Achilles_

    Achilles_ Senior member

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    If I did MTM it would probably be through a local place that does samuelsohn MTM (not many tailors come to Omaha NE, maybe if Warren Buffet didn't use those Dayang suit makers... :plain: )

    I will take it to my tailor and hopefully post some successful pictures :)

    Just so I can be clear with my tailor, I would be shortening it by having them take it apart all the way across the top seam?


    Thanks again :)
     


  13. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    sorry RDiaz thats what comes from falling behind and rushing to catch up. my falt.
    that word should have been LONG not short.
    no you are not bring paranoid. the problem is real.
    is the coat also snug at the waist button?
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2012


  14. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Here are a couple pics of the problem I describe. This happens to all of my jackets. It doesn't feel snug on the chest at all, I'd say it's even a little loose. I believe this jacket is making it look like I have more of a belly than I actually do.


    Coatless:

    [​IMG]

    Coat on:

    [​IMG]

    Now that I come to realize, I believe I'm standing a bit more erect in the coatless pic, hope the "problem" shows though. In fact, when standing less erect, the belly should be less pronounced, but the jacket makes it look like there's a big one there!
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2012


  15. Liquidus

    Liquidus Senior member

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    That doesn't look like an "erect" posture to me. You're letting your stomach puff out, and the effect is exaggerated more when you have a coat on. Both pics have the same outline in the front.
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2012


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