The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. jpcdmd

    jpcdmd Member

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    Yeah I was going for the whole Tom Ford look, etc. I specified 4.5" wide lapels at 3" from the shoulder seam to the peak bottom. 18" drop to the top button from the collar seam. Took it to the tailor today, he's gonna fix the shoulder, arm, and the back left blade where theres some gimping of the underlying fabric. Also getting the pants adjusted. The tailor agreed that I should have specified Erect (or "Upright" as MT calls it)for the posture specification instead of Average. Looking at these pics I didn't realize my posture and spinal curvature was that erect.
     


  2. Superfluous

    Superfluous Senior member

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    For the Tom Ford look, you would have needed a slightly lower button point, slightly longer jacket, and taller pockets.
     


  3. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    rtw suits are not made for you. a man with your chest will have a stomach to fill in the space.
    your erect posture makes it worse, the back should be shortened at the top.
    read tutorials "balance explained" and "taking in jacket sides".
     


  4. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    add padding to the right low shoulder.
    take in the waist, it needs some shaping.
     


  5. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    the waist and the seat and the thigh would need to be taken in.
    that would make the back of the trouser smaller.
    a proper balance should have the back larger than the front.
     


  6. inlandisland

    inlandisland Senior member

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    I thought the same thing. It is definitely close fitting, and certain issues come along with that, but this looks about 100x better than many of the abominations you see posted from indochino.
     


  7. cliche

    cliche Senior member

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    I think the jacket is pretty good, but make those pants shorter and more slim.
     


  8. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    take them back get something that fits in the shoulders. these are too wide.
    these extra longs are too long. the trouser waist is way too big for simple alterations.
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2012


  9. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    you have very erect posture that is making the jacket kick out at the bottom of the front. thats why the buttons were moved. the back needs to be shortened, because the front cant be lengthened. see the tutorials "balance explained".
     


  10. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    cant tell much from the picture but it looks pretty nice.
    you have a right low shoulder , but the picture does not show any effect on the jacket.
     


  11. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    the jacket looks short.
    the trouser legs are so tight they will never hang straight.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2012


  12. RingTail

    RingTail Senior member

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    Thanks! This was bespoke canvassed, so I believe the tailor adjusted for the low right shoulder, for future jackets, would be worth getting extra padding on the right shoulder?
    Also any ideas on what alterations to improve the RTW pants?
     
    Last edited: Feb 29, 2012


  13. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    its a matter of balance. your jackets are too short at the top of the front.
    go to the tutorials "balance explained".
     


  14. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    a little more suppression on the waist.. use the under arm seam.
    the jacket looks a bit short.
    i dont think the trousers need to be narrowed.
    wish i could see the top of the jacket in profile.
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2012


  15. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    get the ones that fit in the seat and crotch.
    then have the legs tapered.
     


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