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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. jeep364

    jeep364 Active Member

    Messages:
    25
    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2015
    Hello. I would appreciate some feedback on this online MTM from Oliver wicks. Navy wool/linen, half lined, unpadded shoulders so obviously it does not drape as well as the fully lined wool Suitsupply Napoli in 32R in the last few pictures for comparison. I did turn up the brightness way up on some of the photos in order to see the 'wrinkles' and 'folds' better because the navy suit is obviously quite dark, hence the grainy, poor image quality. Additionally, the 'back' photo was done off my laptop (all other images are from the mirror)

    My thoughts:
    1. Jacket length - yes it is shorter than many would like but I was looking to purchase this as a separates pair for casual use as well. Prefer a generally slim fit.

    2. Sleeves - From my best comparison, the bottom of the armhole on the navy coat is about 1/2" below the Napoli. As far as width they seem similar with my untrained measurements, but when I lift up my arm you can see the excess fabric below my bicep. There is also quite a bit more wrinkling on the back of the sleeve of the navy coat compared to the Napoli - I don't know if this is simply due to the nature of the fabric or I should have the armhole raised up and biceps taken in. Additionally, is the sleeve opening too large for my small wrists?

    3. Lapel - On some of the photos it looks like the lapel is rising up and you can 'see through' the gap. I know some of this is due to the angle of the photograph, but it is also clear that the lapel notch is 'higher up' than that of the napoli. The button height appears to be approximately the same.

    4. Shoulder - I think these are fine, I did not realize my right shoulder has a 'steeper' angle than my left. This is best visualized in the Napoli (gray) front shot - It is taken in a mirror so the hand holding the camera is my right. In the photograph from the back (only image not from a mirror) I am rotated a bit so my left side is forward - please ignore the discrepancy there.

    5. Chest - Seems fine, do I need a hair more fabric in the front panels? There is a slight bowing mid lapel on the inside fold. More of a creasing. My Napoli has a similar crease, very slight. I have a Suitsupply Havana in 32R with a much more prominent creasing - I know that one probably is too tight in the chest. There is some back waviness, I think that might be fine due to the fabric, but adding 1/4" to each panel width maybe?

    6. Trousers - I did not photograph these, but they seem very comfortable to me, maybe a little bunching behind the thighs. Length is personal preference, I may have them shortened a hair.

    I appreciate all the help and any feedback. Thank you.

    [​IMG]
    You can identify lapel 'pop' in this image. Not nearly (if at all) apparent in real life. However, as aforementioned, the lapel notch is higher than the comparison Napoli below.

    [​IMG]
    (NOT a mirror image, rotated a bit - right is further back toward the camera)

    [​IMG]
    Very dark, but mainly to observe trouser general profile.

    [​IMG]
    Please evaluate sleeve - raise armhole/narrow bicep? I know this is obviously an 'aggressive' movement in a suit jacket, but it accentuates the questions I had.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
    Unaltered - Suit supply Napoli 32R for comparison purposes.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2017
  2. ThomGault

    ThomGault Senior member

    Messages:
    222
    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2016
    Location:
    Charlotte, NC
    Gorge and button stance too high, lapels too short, trousers too tight. The suit can't be fixed...return it. If your shoulders are really that different, you'll need a good tailor to hide it, and it won't be cheap; consider better mtm or bespoke if possible.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2017
    1 person likes this.
  3. jeep364

    jeep364 Active Member

    Messages:
    25
    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2015
    Thanks for the response. I will add that to my list. Also learned a new word - gorget - it is half an inch higher than the Napoli suit pictured, we'll see if they can drop that and the button stance in addition to other changes.
     
  4. ThomGault

    ThomGault Senior member

    Messages:
    222
    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2016
    Location:
    Charlotte, NC
    
    No, the gorge and button stance can't be altered. The entire jacket must be recut, and using a different jacket pattern. And the gorge on the Napoli suit is high, too...It's almost on top of your shoulder.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. clarksdb

    clarksdb Senior member

    Messages:
    2,475
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2010
    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    

    What's your height and weight? How are you fitting into a 32R unless you're really small?
     
  6. jeep364

    jeep364 Active Member

    Messages:
    25
    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2015
    65" 115 to 120 lbs. I always figured I was a 36s based on my chest (36.5") but suitsupply 32R sizing seems comparable for some reason.
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2017
  7. ThomGault

    ThomGault Senior member

    Messages:
    222
    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2016
    Location:
    Charlotte, NC
    
    Most likely because they cut their jackets unreasonably short from the start. 5'6" means you should wear a Short jacket in normal brands. Suit supply is not a normal brand with normal, traditional designs, but instead seems to focus more on the fashion of the moment, which is why I suggest people avoid it.
     
  8. jeep364

    jeep364 Active Member

    Messages:
    25
    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2015
    Per your suggestions, I have included that in my email I have sent back to OW. As you suspect, they will not be able to alter the pattern even with a remake, if that is the case I will be returning the suit.

    Yes, I understand they do not make a short jacket in the 32R or 34R sizes, but they are clearly cut for shorter individuals - not just a case of modern style. The 32R fits me well in the chest with the slightest hint of bowing in the front at the mid-lapel region, unless you disagree. Thier 36S seems much too large. I was under the impression the Napoli I posted fit reasonable well. I suppose the gorge and stance are a bit higher there as well, but I am a bit lost on how to proceed.

    I do prefer somewhat of a modern look and a slightly shorter jacket, I am short and have a shorter torso than most (even my height). I felt as the though the Napoli in 32R was one of the best fitting jackets I have tried OTR. At one point I had a Hart schaffner marx MTM? from the 'modern' or 'American modern' (something like that at least) line and it felt as if I was wearing my Dad's suit. Low armholes, overly classic silhouette. Honestly felt more 'traditional' than the Class A Marlow-white military uniform jacket I wear (in 37S, probably would and should have been able to go 36S when I purchased it originally years ago).

    Your thoughts? I am located in Bethesda, MD so I know shops like Read Wall exist in the DC area, but was hoping to avoid going $1500 / suit right off the bat.
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2017
  9. ThomGault

    ThomGault Senior member

    Messages:
    222
    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2016
    Location:
    Charlotte, NC
    I don't know why anyone living near a major city would be forced into the travesty of ordering a suit online or trying to guess their measurements. From reading the Oliver Wicks site, it is not a true MtM experience, but a sham of what good MtM or bespoke should be. If a [good] tailor isn't involved in measuring, you will NOT get good results. End of story. If you're really good at measuring (and lucky), you can get an acceptable suit...But it will never be really made-to-measure-for-your-body, because you simply don't have the measuring experience of a professional, nor can you'd adjust sizing for your body's quirks.
    You live 30 minutes away from one of the largest u.s. cities, which has real tailors. Locate a good one and let a professional do their job. When you see the results, you'll understand the difference.
     
  10. bobbynardo

    bobbynardo Member

    Messages:
    12
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2016
    Friends, I'd be grateful for any feedback on this MTM DB. It's made with an H&S 8/9oz Super 130s worsted. What alterations are required.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2017
  11. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

    Messages:
    4,538
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    

    The sleeves are too long, and the jacket collar is too high. The various other mild problems with the jacket might be due to forward shoulders. If so, in the long run, physical therapy might be better than tailoring.

    The pants are not draping well, but that might be due to standing with knees locked.
     
  12. Kwchang007

    Kwchang007 New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    Monday
    Hi everybody, great thread! I'm looking for feedback on this coat. Apologies for the wrinkles, it was a long day.

    I'm mainly concerned with how it seems to accentuate my hips from the front. I believe this is partly due to the incorrect balance which kicks out the front of the suit; are there ways to minimize this effect?

    Other things I've noted: the coat is a little bit short but less so than the pictures imply since the trousers were a bit low on my waist. There's a bit too much fullness in the upper back of the coat. The waiscoat isn't sitting flat, which I think is caused by an excess of fabric.

    The coat will be remade due to the balance issue, but based on what you see, I'd like to make sure that any other issues are remedied as well.

    Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

    1EC78309-1EDB-42F0-86CA-F9A37CE827E2.JPG 32F282FB-A7E6-4E7C-B396-CEE7B80117CE.JPG 980EB914-5816-400E-B429-2E1542E1C9EC.JPG
     
  13. breakaway01

    breakaway01 Senior member

    Messages:
    658
    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2013
    Location:
    Ann Arbor, MI
    Not a tailor so take this with a grain of salt. If these pictures represent your normal posture correctly then yes, the front balance is short and the back balance long. However, many people stand straighter for photos than they normally do, which can accentuate the problem. That being said, I do think there is a front/back balance problem.

    The other major problem that I see is that the buttoning point is far too high IMO. It looks like it is at the bottom of your sternum. In addition, the jacket is a bit short, even accounting for the trousers being a bit low. Would lengthen the jacket a bit and drop the buttoning point considerably.

    Trousers don't seem to fit that well in the back--are you sure this is just because they were sitting low on your waist?

    I personally am not a fan of hacking pockets + ticket pocket, but that is a stylistic call.
     
  14. Kwchang007

    Kwchang007 New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    Monday
    Thanks for the solid points breakaway01. The button sits about 1.5" below the sternum and does look high. Now that you mention it, it looks like the buttoning point is a few inches higher than my natural waistline. Will definitely make sure the button stance is lowered and jacket lengthened a bit.

    For the trousers, I'm fairly sure it's due to where they were sitting when those pictures were taken. I've attached pictures with them pulled up properly--unfortunately all of the lighting is overhead so looks like quite a lot of detail gets lost in the shadows. If anything, they might need to be let out a bit through the seat although I'm quite partial to the slim pant look to help visually lengthen the legs.

    DSCF8562.JPG DSCF8563.JPG DSCF8564.JPG
     
  15. Fredsuitup

    Fredsuitup New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    Tuesday
    Hello!

    I have this rather annoying problem with suit pants, or jeans in general.
    My suit pants literally go into my butt, cause I have a big bubble butt for a guy. However, my waist is very thin and my body shape is rather athletic (V shaped). The place I bought the suit from said I could get it sewn out, but I asume they cant do that in the seat area? Just waist? In other words, it wont help a thing....
    Am I wrong? I was also considering to size up and then get it sewn inn. But I dont know...

    Thank You
     
  16. boned

    boned Senior member

    Messages:
    385
    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2013
    Location:
    Chicago
    Hoping I can get a price check. Went to a tailor shop called "Tails" in Chicago today after reading a bunch of recommendations on here (Oxxford tailor named Joe worked there). Was very disappointed to hear he retired two years ago. What I saw was your standard cleaners/alterations fare (Two asian women). I brought in a suit jacket and 4 pairs of pants for alterations.
    • Suit jacket
      • Take in on sides - $85
    • Suit pants
      • Take in seat - $25
      • Shorten crotch - $45 (tbh I don't even know what the difference is between this and taking in the seat.)
      • Taper & Hem - $55
    • Pants 1
      • Shorten crotch - $45
      • Taper & Hem - $55
    • Pants 2
      • Shorten crotch $45
      • Taper & Hem - $55
    • Jeans
      • Taper & Hem - $55
    Total: $465

    Did I get taken to the cleaners? Pun intended.
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2017 at 5:31 PM

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