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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. bobbynardo

    bobbynardo Member

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    12
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    Aug 25, 2016
    Hello, all. Blank Label recently made an MTM suit for me. While I'm generally happy with the final product, I would be really grateful for any feedback from the community on what could be done to improve the fit for this and any future MTM suits that I might commission from them. Many thanks in advance!



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    N.b. In photo above, the coat's bottom button isn't buttoned; rather, it just got caught on the edge of the jacket.

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  2. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

    Messages:
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    Mar 15, 2006
    
    Sloped shoulders. Could use some padding to camouflage. How much, if any, horizontally depends on facial width, which is unknown.
     
  3. Foxtorpedo

    Foxtorpedo New Member

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    Jul 4, 2012
    Thanks! Hadn't even thought about my shoulders tbh, but they are def more on the sloped side.

    How hard is it to add padding (both jackets are SuSu) and/or salvage the creasing?
     
  4. fire and zen

    fire and zen Member

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    Oct 20, 2012
    This is very helpful, thanks. So you think the shoulders are too square on my frame, and that they should be more sloped?

    And what is CB? Collar back? If so, could we raise the collar on this jacket too?

     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2016
  5. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

    Messages:
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    Mar 15, 2006
    

    To where it makes a noticeable difference, it's probably not feasible; but unless a tailor chimes in here, a visit to one is the only way to find out. To be qualified to evaluate that, the tailor probably should have experience in making suits and not work in a laundromat. There's an article on tailor selection on the website.
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2016
  6. Ttailor

    Ttailor Senior member

    Messages:
    135
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    May 27, 2011
    Location:
    Canada
    

    CB is centre back.
    I did not specifically say I thought the shoulders are too square for your frame, i think the general interpretation of that paints a different picture in most people's minds. The tension line is mid shoulder.
    The back shoulder seam may have too much of a hollow to it, your upper shoulder/ blade might be more full than average and the jacket does not account for it. Speaking as a patternmaker It made me think of two possibilites to fix what I saw.

    Determining the fix would mean having it looked at in person. One cannot tell from the internet whether one solution or the other would work.
    In a finished garment, some fixes are not possible- you cannot add fabric where none exists or not worth the money to take something apart and put it back together.
    .
     
  7. Kolossaal

    Kolossaal New Member

    Messages:
    4
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    Oct 22, 2016
    Hello all,

    I received my Luxire order a few days ago: a pair of twill trousers. The fitpics:

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    As can be seen, there is quite some room for improvement unfortunately. There is too much fabric in the crotch (they made the half hip measurement 21 inches instead of 20 like I asked, but I'm in contact with them about that) and around the thighs (under my bottom). They are also a tad too long and wide to my taste, both in general and at the bottom cuff. The improvements that I was thinking of myself for a next pair (that I would like to be a more slim fit) are as follows:

    - taking in the waist with 1/4 inch (as at the moment they are a little bit too wide);
    - taking in the half hip measurement with 1 inch (to reduce the excessive fabric in the crotch);
    - reducing the back rise with 1/2 inch (so that the fabric under my bottom will be one straight line instead of excessive fabric that it looks like right now);
    - taking in the thigh measurement with 1/2 inch (as it looks too wide to me right now)
    - taking in the knee measurements with 1/4 inch (also a tad too wide to my taste)
    - taking in the bottom cuff width to 7 inches

    I will also contact Luxire about this, but I would like to have some comments from you, any help is appreciated!
     
  8. Brick

    Brick Member

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    Feb 11, 2016
    Thoughts on the fit of this coat?

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  9. fire and zen

    fire and zen Member

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    Oct 20, 2012
    

    Thank you for clarifying, this is helpful. There is seam allowance of approx 2" pretty much everywhere and they'll adjust it free of charge for me. What alteration would you recommend? Taking out the center back? Or is this an issue with the shoulder?
     
  10. jeam3130

    jeam3130 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    79
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    Aug 27, 2016
    I'm thinking about getting some cotton trousers let out at the waist. Im worried that this is gonna leave some visible lines. I took it to my tailor and he opened up some fabric in the back and material he would release is same same color as the pants. Any idea if there will be visible stitch lines? If so, do they usually look bad?
     
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2016
  11. Ttailor

    Ttailor Senior member

    Messages:
    135
    Joined:
    May 27, 2011
    Location:
    Canada
    

    The danger of internet advice! I didn't say to take out the CB, and I am not sure what else to say for fear of it being misinterpreted.
    I bet it is a shoulder issue. The fix is possible in a couple of ways but your best bet is to take it to them in person. Indicate the area you have concern about and see if they can fix it. They made it, so one assumes they would be able to fix it.
     
  12. fire and zen

    fire and zen Member

    Messages:
    19
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    Oct 20, 2012
    

    Fair play, this is why I wanted to clarify. I'll take it to them. And no CB adjustments (unless this is what they diagnose in person). Thanks!
     
  13. EzraPaul

    EzraPaul Senior member

    Messages:
    145
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    Aug 26, 2010
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    
    It could be caused by several things:
    • linen drapes differently than cotton
    • the back is too big so when you taper to the waist it drapes funny (problem regardless of the waist issues)
    • the armhole is too big (problem regardless of the waist issues)
    • the shoulder slop is too square (problem regardless of the waist issues)
    But is most likely the result of: You wear your trousers way lower than your true waist. You're unlikely to change this. I'd also bet the family farm that pants are always baggier than you like around the lower hip/thigh. This is because the rise is much too long for you on most trousers, so the hip (which is cut bigger than the thigh) is sitting at the thigh. I assume you are ordering these yourself, not getting measured? To fix:
    • adjust the items above
    • decrease the back if you can, which is doubtful, so decrease the chest 1/2" and the yoke 1/2" and check the "erect posture" box
    • decrease the hip as much as you can without making it tight
    • add 1-2" to the length. The shirt will be too long, but it will make the shirt waist longer (hip lower)
    Lastly, this is why you should have a professional measure you.
     
  14. jeam3130

    jeam3130 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    79
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    Aug 27, 2016
    1. What do I need my tailor to change for these pants to fit better? I feel like they are too baggy in the buttocks area. will slimming the thighs to the knee and increasing the taper from the knees down do the trick?

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  15. TinyThor

    TinyThor New Member

    Messages:
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    Aug 16, 2015
    Location:
    Winnipeg, Canada
    I have short arms & sports coats with surgeon's cuffs.[​IMG] My local tailor (bespoke fellow, not alterations only type) has quoted me a price to shorten the sleeves that's 4x greater than shortening regular sleeves (plus, the pattern may not match which is a real risk). Is that a reasonable mark up? If i don't care about losing the functionality of the surgeon's cuffs can i get it shortened at the cuff end?
    thanks!

    TT
     
  16. EzraPaul

    EzraPaul Senior member

    Messages:
    145
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    Aug 26, 2010
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    

    It costs that much because he has to take them up from the shoulder. I strongly recommend not doing that. I won't bore you with the details of why it isn't a good idea, but it almost never comes out good Even if your arms are so short that you clear the buttons, there will be no placket, which will not look good. I'd invest that money into a new jacket that fits right.
     
  17. bobbynardo

    bobbynardo Member

    Messages:
    12
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    Aug 25, 2016
    Usually tailors/alterers want to take in sleeves for the sleevehead/shoulder when sleeve has working cuffs. It's more labor intensive but worth it if your garment is high quality.
     
  18. Torzano

    Torzano Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    60
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    Jul 19, 2015
    I got a pair of heavier weight chinos tapered and thighs taken in. The fit is a little too tight. Can they be taken out again?
     
  19. snk1800

    snk1800 Member

    Messages:
    6
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    Nov 2, 2016
    Yep, seems like is a bit baggy in the buttocks area.
     
  20. Dr Evil

    Dr Evil New Member

    Messages:
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    Nov 2, 2016
    Short Q with a terrible pic. Sorry.
    Tried this on today. First time with natural shoulders. Can this cut work for the dad bod or does it make me look even wider?

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