1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. MattGuitar

    MattGuitar Member

    Messages:
    7
    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2016
    Hi all. I'm a newbie to the forum, though I have been following for a month or so. I am also new to wearing suits. In the past, I was not as dressed up. At any rate, I am trying to get a feel for suit fit, and have been going to try OTR suits, just for comparison. I'd like to check my impressions with those of the group here. What do you think of the fit of this suit?
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Thanks in advance for your help!
     
  2. AdductorMagnus

    AdductorMagnus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    68
    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2015
    Location:
    Norway/Hungary
    So I have this morning dress rig that I think, not knowing any better, fits me pretty good. However, it was tailored in 1937, so I feel maybe the trousers at least could do with some minor alterations. Any tips on what could/should be altered would be much appreciated. I don´t quite have photos fitting the prescription in post #1, some poor mirror shots and pics from my wedding is what I can give you to work with. Clickable for full size.

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]




    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]




    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]



    My white tie rig could also do with some alterations advice, but there really weren´t any suitable pics from the wedding.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. wigglr

    wigglr Senior member

    Messages:
    2,030
    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2012
    Location:
    Boston
    ^ that is so bad ass. Idk if I'd go for any alteration. I thought about leg taper but I think that'd ruin the vibe
     
  4. b14k

    b14k Active Member

    Messages:
    37
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2011
    Hello!

    I would appreciate any advice on whether to keep or return this suit. This is the smallest size they offered and the shoulders are a little too big, exactly 1/8 inch too wide. The tailor said it would cost me $60 to narrow the shoulders, but recommended it looks fine and it wouldn't be worth it. The tailor only recommended I hem the pants to a "slight break."

    Do you guys think this the look okay to keep and alter the rest, despite the shoulders being a little too wide? If so, what else would you suggest getting altered on the suit?
    This is my first suit and it will be primary used while I am in law school, so I am not looking for something too fashion forward, but at the same time I don't want something too conservative. Is the overall proportion okay or should I look to slim the sleeves, pants, and chest down further? Thank You!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  5. divot

    divot Active Member

    Messages:
    29
    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2011
    [removed]
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2016
  6. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

    Messages:
    4,537
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    

    The suit is too big in the shoulders (hard to fix) and too long in the sleeves. Also, the drape of the pants is wrong in a way that is best left for a tailor to figure out.

    By the way, the shirt color is too dark for that suit.
     
  7. MattGuitar

    MattGuitar Member

    Messages:
    7
    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2016
    @mensimageconsultant Thanks for the feedback. I agree about shoulders and sleeve (and shirt color, but this was just what I had on from work that day). I wasn't thinking too hard about the pants.

    I seem to have trouble finding OTR suits that simultaneously fit my shoulders, which are not particularly wide compared to my chest, which is a little over 41 inches. I guess I am trying to justify to myself (and my wife [​IMG]) going with MTM at some point soon.
     
  8. Aloysius16

    Aloysius16 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    84
    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2016
    Is there any advice on how to correct the fit issue shown below. I find on almost all OTR trousers that there is an excess of material at the outer seam around my seat and upper thigh (at and just below the pocket seam). This is frequently visible on the front silhouette (see bottom picture). It is presumably due to my narrow hips and flat seat, but I find that it is not corrected just by adjusting the hip and thigh circumference. What adjustment might be appropriate?

    Perhaps connected, I also find that my trousers do not hang straight along the front (they gather along the knee/shin). This is the opposite to the photos I often see on SF where more 'amply posteriored' men have trousers that gather at the back of the leg. Again, how might this be adjusted? Is it a matter of leg 'pitch', rather like a jacket sleeve?


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  9. The Dirk

    The Dirk Member

    Messages:
    9
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2016
    Hi all. first time poster. I just wanted to get some opinions on how many of these issues with this suit would be solved by going up a size? Particularly the divots/rumples in the shoulders. it's a size 42R and I'm debating between sending it back for a refund, or exchanging it for a size up. It's a really nice suit, I like the styling of it quite a bit, but I just don't think it fits my body well.

    Thanks in advance for the help and opinions.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Aloysius16

    Aloysius16 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    84
    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2016
    I have a flat seat, so many of my trousers have an excess of fabric at the bottom of the 'cheeks. Some have a centre seam which has a longer 'horizontal' part at the base of the crotch. I have tried to draw this in the amateur cross-section picture below, where drawing 1 has a relatively straight line between the base of the front rise and the the rear waistband, whereas drawing 2 has this extended horizontal part (and tends to protrude at the base of my seat where I have marked in red). Am I correct in thinking that the shape of this area is referred to as the 'stride', and that it can be cut differently for flatter or fuller seats? Also, does stride refer to the 'shape' as well as just the length of the 'rear rise' (i.e. the seam length from the leg seam/fork to the rear waistband)?

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2016
  11. Ttailor

    Ttailor Senior member

    Messages:
    135
    Joined:
    May 27, 2011
    Location:
    Canada
    Reply for The Dirk

    Return it.
    Try a size up or two, or a different brand/cut.
    It is much too tight, pretty much everywhere.
    Trousers are much too narrow at hem, and it doesn't look proportionally balanced.
     
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2016
  12. The Dirk

    The Dirk Member

    Messages:
    9
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2016
     
  13. Kevin24

    Kevin24 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    95
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2014
    [​IMG]

    I bought this Samuelsohn suit from Saks Fifth and had it tailored at the store as well.

    Yesterday I wore it to a function and notice that the sleeves on the suit appeared long for the shirt I was wearing. So I couldn't show any cuff.

    However, when I tried on other shirts with the Samuelsohn when I got home they largely fit perfectly with the sleeves.

    Then again when I tried on the orginal shirt I was wearing with some of my other suits/sport coats sleeve/cuff lined up perfectly with them.

    Sorry if this is all confusing. I was wondering if I have a shirt problem here or a shirt one? I.E. is one or the other too long for my body or both?

    Thank you in advance!
     
  14. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    Hi Kevin

    Go to search then ask for "tailors technical tutorials".
    Scroll down to "shirt sleeve showing problem"..
    That should help you.
    Good luck.
    Alex
     
  15. The Dirk

    The Dirk Member

    Messages:
    9
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2016
    @a tailor do you mind giving me a technical response to the pictures I posted above?
     
  16. hoxuantu

    hoxuantu Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    68
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2012
    I just received my new MTM suit. Please give me feedbacks. If you need more photos at other angle view, let me know.
    Thanks a lot.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2016
  17. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    Dirk

    The reference that I gave you is the actual technical solution to your problem.
     
  18. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    Alyousis

    People come in all kind of shapes., RTW makers can only make there garments in one average shape and hope fore the best.

    You have a pretty good idea of the solution. Your tailor will grab a handful of cloth and make some chalk marks. This will show
    him how the new seam will be made.
    When the alteration is done the thigh circumference may appear too large, but this is a separate problem, and a separate
    alteration, for a separate price.
     
  19. Odd I/O

    Odd I/O Senior member

    Messages:
    1,027
    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2009
    

    I have one shoulder with quite a bit of a drop in comparison to my other shoulder. This results in a lot of folds in the fabric of my shirts under my arm pit. Would adjusting the slope for that shoulder solve this problem?
     
  20. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    That would take care of the shirts problem, But the jackets problem is separate
    .
    If you change the shirts shoulder, do it first.
    Then see that all your shirts sleeves end at the same place.
    Then do the suit sleeves.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by