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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. mrtn

    mrtn Member

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    Thanks for the reply! Does this help?
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    Both coats have 3-roll-2 buttoning.

    My natural waist, from what I can tell, is roughly 0.5 in. above the second-last button on the _shirt_.

    I will typically wear the coats with jeans or odd trousers. No tie, nothing formal. I'm really not pedantic, but expect a decent fit.

    If I were to take them the tailors, how much should I let them out?

    Appreciate your advise!
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2016
  2. powerkicker

    powerkicker Senior member

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    I'd be astonished if you'll be able to have those let out enough. Burn or Ebay them.
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2016
  3. mrtn

    mrtn Member

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    Thanks for the reply! Not sure about burning them though
     
  4. refinery

    refinery Well-Known Member

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    Fair point given the picture, but depending on how much he likes it, it may still be worth it to keep/tailor.

    To you @Melchiades, that high button stance is not very flattering and in my opinion a bit too high even if you did happen to shed a few pounds. However this is just my personal taste.

    Also given the length of the suit itself, I think it's a bit too long. When you can cup your fingers underneath the jacket itself without it folding is a general (really up to you) idea of how to know if the length is too long or short. Of course preference, body shape, proportions, etc. all play a part so take it with a grain of salt.

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    However since the button stance is so high, I think shedding 2 or even 3 inches of the suit's length would still make it look fine and it wouldn't look awkward due to the pocket placement/high button stance. Usually you can't trim down a suit/jacket's length too much otherwise it would mess with the proportions being too close to the pockets/buttons, but you have plenty of room here.

    Good luck.
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2016
  5. refinery

    refinery Well-Known Member

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    I think they look perfect in sleeve length and suit length. The shoulders are hard(er) to tell without a side picture but honestly they look fine.

    The waist is too clearly too tight when buttoned, but you can fix that without a tailor but a (gym) trainer instead. Also since it's already warped when buttoned on the waist, it'd be unfair to give any serious input on the chest.

    Don't burn them even for warmth, I'm sure having it on your back would be more beneficial.

    Good luck.
     
  6. Purplelabel

    Purplelabel Senior member

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    Kent, UK
    

    Any help fellas? Off to the tailors to get my Hackett chinos tapered this weekend and would like to bring these along as well.
     
  7. mrtn

    mrtn Member

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    Great piece of advice, thanks!
     
  8. greger

    greger Senior member

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    Tight fit really shouldn't be straining on the buttons. Flared skirts look better on short coats with a proper button stance. Designers today are young without proper history lessons to get the most out their designings.
     
  9. HanEyeAm

    HanEyeAm Active Member

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    Hello, I'm trying to decide whether to keep this jacket (part of a suit). This is a Signature Gold-line from Jos a Bank and it was on clearance for $200, so a pretty good price for a decent half-canvassed suit, IMO. About $40-50 more would go to bringing up the sleeves, adding buttons, letting out the pants, and doing the pants cuffs. The thing is, I don't need another suit (I have one dark grey suit that I only wear for special/important occasions), and the $$$ could be spent elsewhere on a sport coat, which is a more pressing need.

    I think the coat fits well (sleeve length aside) but the shoulders are a bit robust (as JAB tends to have) and the drape of the sleeve could be better. Your thoughts?

    Also, I will be wearing the jacket as a sport coat occasionally at conferences, etc., so would like the coat to work well with jeans and khaki chinos (the lighting throws off the color in the pic below of the khakis, but I think you get the idea). What do you think, does it work? Does it look like an orphan? Thanks!


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    Last edited: Mar 10, 2016
  10. jcmeyer

    jcmeyer Senior member

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    In all seriousness, it sounds like you already know the answer to your own question given your ambivalence, but there's no way this jacket is going to look like anything but an orphan and your money will be far better spent on an actual blazer - a navy one to start if you don't have that covered. :nodding:
     
    2 people like this.
  11. HanEyeAm

    HanEyeAm Active Member

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    Thanks, jc. Yeah, ambivalence is the right word.

    I have a navy blazer and a navy sport coat I like. I have 3 other sport coats that, now that I have learned to be a bit more critical of my wardrobe, will be exiting my closet soon.

    If I needed a suit this would be a bargain on a middling one, but what I need is a proper (tweed) sport coat (or 2). 'Been twitchy on some eBay offerings, as I'm a frugal guy, but don't tthink I have the grapes for online, used clothing shopping.

    -Hans
     
  12. GuP

    GuP Senior member

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    X post

     
  13. mrtn

    mrtn Member

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    Thanks, @greger !
     
  14. HanEyeAm

    HanEyeAm Active Member

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    In hindsight, I am curious what made you respond "meh" to the fit and exactly what that means.
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2016
  15. jcmeyer

    jcmeyer Senior member

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    All I meant was that the way it fits doesn't overcome the issues with the stylist details. It's by no means a bad fit, as you said and as you'll find plenty of examples of in this thread, but the shoulders are indeed large with a lot of structure, sleeves look wide adding to the boxy look, and the buttoning point is too high. Not enough to go on in the pics to see much more, but it's just not in the realm of, "this looks so amazing on me I don't care that it's not versatile/correct and I'm keeping it."

    That help? :)
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. HanEyeAm

    HanEyeAm Active Member

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    Thank you jc. Your perspective and post are well appreciated.

    I was hoping to scan eBay for some sportcoats this week, but lordy, I feel like the chances of getting shoulders plus length plus armholes etc. right (even knowing measurements of decent-fitting jackets) is close to nil. That was amplified by a trip to Dillards and trying on a 40S MHS blazer yesterday and man, it just looked right. Time to up the budget, perhaps. Ah, a post for another thread!
     
  17. jcmeyer

    jcmeyer Senior member

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    LOL. Welcome to StyleForum, my friend!
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. Gavinband

    Gavinband Senior member

    Messages:
    238
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    May 21, 2014
    Gents,

    Can I get some honest feedback on this shirt? First attempt from Luxire using body measurements. I am happy with cuff width and sleeve length, those feels right. It feels very big at the back, and there is a lot of spare material at the back arms. Any suggestions on slight tweaks I can make for another order? The body measurements I used are below:

    - Neck 14.5 inches: PLEASE ENSURE THE COLLAR MEASURES 15 INCHES
    - sleeves 34 inches
    - short sleeve 10 inches
    - shoulders 18 inches
    - chest 38 inches
    - across chest 16 inches
    - across back 16.5 inches
    - waist 37.5 inches
    - biceps 13 inches
    - wrist 6.5 inches: PLEASE ENSURE THE FRENCH CUFFS EACH MEASURE 8 INCHES, SO 1.5 INCHES MORE THAN MY WRIST MEASUREMENT.
    - average shoulders (rather than sloping or straight)
    - length 31 inches
    - slim fit.


    Many thanks in advance.[​IMG]

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  19. seejulius

    seejulius Member

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    - shoulders 18 inches | can come up a .25 on each side
    - chest 38 inches | I would add 2 pleats on the back of the shirt, then subtract a .50" total.
    - waist 37.5 inches | you have a lot of excess fabric in your waist/stomach area you could take an additional 1" total.
    - biceps 13 inches | another .50 could be taken out.

    This is just my opinion, it looks like they gave you a little bit more of an allowance on your first shirt.
     
  20. seejulius

    seejulius Member

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