The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[jefferyd]



I was always under the impression that a shoulder that is too large/long will sag at the end and create divots? 

This is incorrect.

 

[jefferyd]



See, I have that problem with more structured shoulders because the padding causes the fabric to divot when my arm isn't right there to fill the space up. However, with softer shoulders that are less structured and padded, I have found that the shoulder is more free to conform to my natural shoulder which may be a tad narrower. YMMV

This, too, is incorrect. Improper fit causes divots, not width or padding or structure. See Frederick Scholte and Tommy Nutter.

 

[NeedForTweed123]

This is incorrect.

What causes divots? And how far can you stray from shoulder to shoulder measurements?

 

[EEWithoutStyle]

Honorable Tailors, please comment on my Chinos. I always have trouble with proper fitting pants in the waist and inseam. I feel as though the leg opening is ok on these but not sure if I need to modify the hem or waist.

 

[Isolation]

Hi. I got these two suits from low-mid end tailors in HK. I will be returning soon and am considering returning to these tailors or alternatively other ones, and as such I would like comments on their handiwork, quality/value, opinions on which/whether I should go for more suits, and so on. These two suits cost between 500-600 USD. When I got them I couldn't have known better as they are some of my first suits, and even now I find them to be decent, but I would like opinions of people with higher standard. Please don't mind the wet patch on the linen suit I had some water spilled onto it. Also sorry for the pictures not being quite straight and clear I was in a hurry.




Pulling elbows back


Raising elbows.
















Thanks for looking.

 

[OTCtailor]

Hi tailors, @Despos

The chest and shoulders on this suit fit well, but there's wrinkling in the sleeves. Can that be fixed? Does it require rotating the sleeves?

Thanks!

If it's RTW, the chest is a tad small and it's pulling fabric where the sleeves are attached. So, the fit of the chest is not good if it causes that. You just happen to like how close it is.

 

[OTCtailor]

Tailors: more of a theory question: for minnis fresco fabric, if I use dark canvassing, does it matter what color of lining is used (will the lining see through the open weave)?

Thanks!

This question is a little confusing...please clarify.

 

[OTCtailor]

What causes divots? And how far can you stray from shoulder to shoulder measurements?

armhole distortion usually caused by tightness over the blades pulling at the armhole causing it to collapse. This creates excess vertical length at the sleeve cap.

 

[venividivicibj]



This question is a little confusing...please clarify.

I have heard that due to the openness of the fresco weave, one should only use dark lining, as it is possible for the color to show through if a lighter/contrasting lining is used (if a flash camera is used, if the sun is behind you, etc)

Do you find this to be true?

 

[OTCtailor]

Hi. I got these two suits from low-mid end tailors in HK. I will be returning soon and am considering returning to these tailors or alternatively other ones, and as such I would like comments on their handiwork, quality/value, opinions on which/whether I should go for more suits, and so on. These two suits cost between 500-600 USD. When I got them I couldn't have known better as they are some of my first suits, and even now I find them to be decent, but I would like opinions of people with higher standard. Please don't mind the wet patch on the linen suit I had some water spilled onto it. Also sorry for the pictures not being quite straight and clear I was in a hurry.




Pulling elbows back


Raising elbows.
















Thanks for looking.

They look to be too wide in the shoulders (esp the linen). Shoulders may not be sloped enough nor are they cut correctly---especially for the lower right shoulder. The prominent blades are really hard to get around and to some degree, you may always experience distortion in the back from them. Also, the back balance appears to be too long and not correctly adjusted for the swayback/forward hips. The jackets are falling down in the back and hitting your hips. Lots of work to correct all this with alterations.

 

[OTCtailor]

I bought a Brooks Brothers Fitzgerald suit on ebay based on listed measurements. I know the trousers and jacket sleeves need to be shortened, but I am unsure about the rest of the fit. What do you all think? Also, excuse the oxford shirt and loafers, as I am traveling for work, and don't have anything else to wear with the suit right now. https://imgur.com/a/LCV8Z

Thanks!

We can't tell from the selfie.

 

[OTCtailor]

Hi guys!

I have received my Suit Supply tuxedo(s) this afternoon (BTW excellent turnaround time, I ordered from Suit Supply on Wednesday April 2nd and received my order this afternoon - Friday April 4th) and would like your input.

Now, keep in mind that I am not your average lean/fit #menswear enthusiast, therefore I am a little harder to fit, be it in office clothing or casual attire. For the record, I'm 6' and currently 245lbs and trying to lose some, with a 47" chest. I lost 23lbs since January 1st and plan on losing 10lbs more until my wedding which is planned on July 12th of this year.

This is my first order with Suit Supply, so I used both their Size Advisor and Measurement page to guide my purchase. I order the tuxedo in 46R and 48R.

Def keep the 48R. Have the collar roll removed ( it is posture related). The jacket would require more front suppression so it doesn't pull around your sides. This is more involved than the normal sideseam adjustment. See the tailor's tutorials and look for the thread on jacket waist suppression. See the example where the front part only gets sucked in.
With the pants, it's harder to tell because you had no pics for us to see but it's probably releasing the back part of the fork and perhaps reshaping the lower part of the seat to give you more room back there.

 

[OTCtailor]

Very specific question for the experts here:

Jacket has too much skirt flare.
Red = problem area, gap between hip width and jacket hip.
Green = the contour I want to achieve.
It looks much more severe in person, because this picture is taken from top-down angle so it enhances chest width and gives the illusion that the hips aren't as wide as they are. In real life it looks like a tutu!

My question is: how do I fix this? Which seam should I (or my tailor, assuming I can find a competent one around here) take in? Pinning the center back seam didn't help, it maintained the hip flare shape. I think the jacket needs to be taken in from the side vent seams, kind of "rotating" the front quarters of the jacket. Any advice?

You're close to right except you probably wouldn't touch that CB seam. That would cause the vents to invert unless the seat of the jacket is simply way too large for your own. Go to the tailor's tutorials and find the thread on jacket waist suppression. It could be as simple as how you've drawn the green arrow or it could be a little more intense requiring a little skirt reduction at the front through the underseam that is intersected by the pocket.

 

[jefferyd]



What causes divots?

Problems with the armhole, problems with the cross-back, problems with the shape of the sleeve relative to the armhole.

And how far can you stray from shoulder to shoulder measurements?

Very far.

If wide shoulders or padding or structure had anything to do with divots, this guy would have sinkholes big enough to swallow a car collection.

 

[luv2breformed]

Thanks for all of the clarification jefferyd! I think this is a common misconception and now it makes perfect sense why despos recommended recutting the sleeve-head for what I think is a forward shoulders issue. Thanks again.