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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Ttailor

    Ttailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    135
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    May 27, 2011
    Location:
    Canada
    

    Can't tell from the photos, sorry.
     
  2. stocken

    stocken Active Member

    Messages:
    31
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    Oct 22, 2013
    Dear TTailor, you commented about the duck canvas trousers, that they were to tapered. I after a clean fall so I will increase the hem width with 0.25 or 0.5".
    Do you think the knee width has to be increaed also? There is some tucking of fabric around the knees.
    The seat feels large I am thinking about decreasing rise at croch back and front with 0.25" and the half hip messurement.

    The pictures below is my first order and the duck canvas the second. I provide all pictures again.
    The duck canvas rise is 1" more in the front and 1.25" in back, half hip increased with 0.25".

    I also wonder what you think about the shirt. Luxire think It should be adjusted for sloping shoulders and "We also need to adjust the curve of the sleeve cap at the front to remove diagonal lines appearing on top of the sleeve head."

    I really appreciate your feedback and I try to absorb all knowledge I can overcome!

    yours
    Mattias Stockhaus
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  3. Ttailor

    Ttailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    135
    Joined:
    May 27, 2011
    Location:
    Canada
    

    Hem circumference increase of .25 or .5 is probably not enough. How much? It is hard to say. At least and inch maybe more?
    Probably leave the knee alone.
    Leave rise as is. If the seat feels large changing the rise will not help. Check your own hip measurment and your waist measurement, or better yet, get someone to measure you.
    Decreasing the hip may or may not give you better results, it depends on the basic pattern they use and how they manipulate it. I am not fond of very many of the trouser cuts I see, cut too much shape in the hips like women's trousers, and also trying to cut suit trousers as tight as jeans without modifying the pattern correctly. Just mt take on it.
    Shirt changes seem correct.
     
  4. ptr1988

    ptr1988 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    151
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    Sep 3, 2015
    Can't tell from the photos? Is it because of the photos size.. you have to click on it to enlarge or is it because the position/angle the photos was taken?
     
  5. Van Veen

    Van Veen Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jun 14, 2011
    Location:
    Nerdo Crombezia
    

    So what is the best option for guys with big hips in relation to the waist? Higher rise + pleats so the waist fits, but trousers still drape over the hips?
     
  6. Ttailor

    Ttailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    135
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    May 27, 2011
    Location:
    Canada
    

    Hah, no because you don't want the pleats to provide the fit, or compensate for a lack of fit.

    If your waist to hip difference is larger than average because of a full seat, look for a brand that offers the option for two back darts.

    There must be brands out there that cater more toward athletic figures- smaller waist, developed glutes and thighs. Maybe there is a thread somewhere here about possible sources.

    Just so you know, OTR/RTW and MTM are not my areas of expertise so I cannot direct you to specific brands, sorry.
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. piyi

    piyi Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    54
    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2015
    Location:
    WA
    I recently purchased this suit. I have not had it altered yet. I was wondering if you could give me some advice on the fit and what it will take to correct.
    Thank you,

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  8. skeen7908

    skeen7908 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,612
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    Jan 15, 2010
    Could anyone provide advice on what causes this bunching of fabric at the front of my armpits, as well as the messy look of the sleeve at my upper arm

    Armholes too small? Too big?

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    It doesn't look bad from the back or side

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    Last edited: Dec 28, 2015
  9. jandersson

    jandersson Active Member

    Messages:
    29
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    Aug 28, 2011
    @skeen7908 : I'm no expert but here's my thoughts:
    • Looks to me like the bunching might go away if you lift your shoulders? If so you might need to adjust your pattern for square shoulders.
    • Your shirt also looks a bit tight around the chest, which might cause the shirt to move upwards.
    • The lines at your upper arm might be due to a too low sleeve cap.
    • This article by Ruben Bakker is very helpful.
     
  10. Ttailor

    Ttailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    135
    Joined:
    May 27, 2011
    Location:
    Canada
    
    Not sure if this can be fixed, it looks a bit too small and without the correct pattern modifications for your body type, but I will tell you what I see. You have a challenging figure to fit. You are much more three dimensional than the suit. Two things stand out to me. A broad and heavy upper back -and a flattish seat -you can see the drag lines running from the waist up towards the blade and how the centre back below your waist forms a vertical fold. Technically challenging but it could involve recutting the whole back. Pass the back up, take in cb seam below the waist and let out sides below the waist......if there is enogh fabric there...... The second is the front at the buttoning point. As it is buttoned now, it forces the roll line to bow out. you likely need a gorge line dart or a hammer dart to provide upper body shaping, and a wider lapel to hide such a dart.
     
  11. Ttailor

    Ttailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    135
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    May 27, 2011
    Location:
    Canada
    

    Looks too tight - chest ( and hip) combined with small high armhole.
    Fabric is trying to find a place to sit where there is less tension. Full chest is using up all ease in the garment.

    Shirts have less inherent shaping in their traditional pattern which is why they were always a looser fitting garment. When you remove the ease to get a tighter garment, the garment needs more shaping to fit the body contours. This shirt, and really, most shirts do not have enough seams or darts to contour the fabric to the body, so the end result of over tightening is what you see here.
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2015
  12. skeen7908

    skeen7908 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jan 15, 2010
    Brilliant gents thank you

    This was mtm not bespoke unfortunately

    I can request a larger armhole and chest (and certainly hip which I need).

    I do note the chest and armholes do not FEEL tight: I can take a deep breath and the chest does not feel tight not do the buttons pull, and the armholes don't dig in at any range of motion

    Is there anything more specific they can be instructed to alter with regards to the pattern?
    Shape of armhole? Scye?
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2015
  13. Ttailor

    Ttailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    May 27, 2011
    Location:
    Canada
    Post deleted, answered the wrong person.
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2015
  14. piyi

    piyi Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Dec 27, 2015
    Location:
    WA
    I appreciate your input Ttailor.
    Thank you,
    Piyi
     
  15. Ttailor

    Ttailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    135
    Joined:
    May 27, 2011
    Location:
    Canada
    

    SORRY THIS REPLY IS FOR PIYI.
     
  16. piyi

    piyi Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    54
    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2015
    Location:
    WA
    Thank you Ttailor I missed your second post. I did notice the vertical fold in the lower back and because they do not have enough measurements the upper back is too small for me. I see what you are saying about my trousers, because my top is so much larger than my bottom I need them to be a little fuller to balance me out. I am not sure what options they have as far as pattern adjustment, but I will talk with them and see what they say. Here is a pic of the front unbuttoned. Thanks again for your help.
    PIYI

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  17. Ttailor

    Ttailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    135
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    May 27, 2011
    Location:
    Canada
    
    Looking at it unbuttoned you can see that the fronts sit much too far apart and that is why there is such a pull when you button it. Looking at the stripes, you can see how they are angling away, so that too indicates the need for some adjustment such as a gorge dart or hammer dart which will correct it so the stripes hang vertically at CF. I hope this helps you get an improved result!
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2015
  18. JimmyTre

    JimmyTre Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    77
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2015
    I've been ordering some pants from Luxire, an online MTM service. It has taken a few iterations to get a decent fit on the pants and I'm close. However, there is one persistent issue that they don't seem to be able to resolve, event though I send pictures to them and point out the problem. Namely, there is always a fair amount of loose/sagging fabric behind the thigh area, extending all the way from the bottom of the buttocks to the back of the knees. I am wondering whether anyone can offer a suggestion that I can pass on in order to get this taken care off. I'm including photos from the latest pair.
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    You may also notice that the pants are a bit tight across the hips. This was due to a mistake made with that measurement, which I'm already in the process of fixing. Please feel free to ignore. Many thanks for the advice!
     
  19. Ttailor

    Ttailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    135
    Joined:
    May 27, 2011
    Location:
    Canada
    
    What kind of fit there are you trying to achieve? Close fitting like jeans or clean hanging but loose around the thigh? In the photos it looks like you have a prominent seat, did you manage to get them to use two darts in the back? Also, are they a company that asks you to measure an existing pair of trousers or to give actual body measurements?
     
  20. JimmyTre

    JimmyTre Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    77
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2015
    Thanks for your reply! I'm looking for something clean hanging rather than close-fitting. I do have a prominent seat and it seems that the problem is getting the taper from the seat to the leg right. There are double darts being used in the back.

    As for the company, they ask for either body measurements measurements off a best-fitting set of pants. I went with the latter. Because of my build, I've never had a something that is trully best fitting so I'm still trying to get fit right. The company allows you to send pictures of how a previous order fits and make comments regarding that fit. They then recommends changes to the pattern/alterations to the pattern that they have for you on file. Over the 2 times that I've done this, the managed to fix the "wedgie" issue that I was having. However, the sagginess behind the thighs remains.
     

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