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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Gavinband

    Gavinband Senior member

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    So the solution there would be before the trousers are cut, I assume?
     
  2. Gavinband

    Gavinband Senior member

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    May 21, 2014
    Would it involve a bit more material around the calf and knee?
     
  3. Gavinband

    Gavinband Senior member

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    Here is a pic from the back. Does this look like calf pulling at trousers?

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  4. ptr1988

    ptr1988 Senior member

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    Sep 3, 2015
    Hi I am pretty new at this. This is a Ralph Lauren Black Label suit - solid anthony. The size is 36R. I think overall the fit is pretty good except for a few things. For the front there are bumps on the lapel and on the back there are alot of wrinkles. What are causing those wrinkles ? Also are there other issues that I need to fix. I don't have a keen eyes for this. Also ignore the pants, its my workout sweat pants. Thanks

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    Last edited: Dec 7, 2015
  5. greger

    greger Senior member

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    WA
    

    A picture from the side would show better.

    The shaping of the seat looks amiss. More darts perhaps.
     
  6. Gavinband

    Gavinband Senior member

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  7. phoenixfalling

    phoenixfalling New Member

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    Oct 30, 2013
    Hi, could I get some comments about the fit of this shirt and these trousers? The shirt is TM Lewin (unaltered), and the trousers are Luxire test fit chinos (not sure if it's just me, but the rear pockets of the chinos look like they're spaced a bit too far apart). Thanks!

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    Last edited: Dec 8, 2015
  8. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    NYC
    the shirt is fine for RTW

    the pockets do seem off

    increase the seat measurement. they look a bit tight.
     
  9. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Senior member

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    Could I have some feedback on the fit of these trousers? 'm trying to improve the fit for my next order with Luxire. Here're the problems I'm experiencing:
    - Front not clean.
    - Trousers not falling cleanly over the shoes.
    - Trousers crawling up between the butt cheeks resulting in disrupted lines at the back.
    - What looks to be like to much room around the pockets and front (to the left of the crotch in the first picture). Also, I feel like, at least when standing, there's to much room around the hip area. But I'm afraid of decreasing it because as you can see, the trousers are already riding up between the butt cheeks. On the other hand, not tightening the seat area makes the trousers look like they're "sagging".

    I'm not sure what alterations to ask for, but I'm considering one of the following two routes:

    1
    - Increase back rise at the crotch by 0,25" to remedy the problem of the trousers riding up between the butt cheeks.
    - Scoop out the seat by 0,25" for the same reason as above.
    - Slanted/military hem. Decrease front length by 0,25" and increase back length by 0,5" resulting in a 0,75" slant.

    2
    - Increase back rise at the crotch by 0,25" to remedy the problem of the trousers riding up between the butt cheeks.
    - Scoop out the seat by 0,5" for the same reason as above. Note, this is 0,25" MORE than alternative 1.
    - Slanted/military hem. Decrease front length by 0,25" and increase back length by 0,5" resulting in a 0,75" slant.
    - Decrease half hip measurement at front by 0,25" to tighten the front seat area. I'm imagining this will render a cleaner look around the pockets.
    - Decrease half hip measurement at the back by 0,25" to tighten the back seat area. I'm imagining this will render a cleaner look around the pockets.
    - Decrease front rise by 0,25". I'm imagining this will render a cleaner look as well.
    - Increase back rise at waist by 0,25" in order to give my butt/back a little more room in addition to the first alteration under this alternative (2).

    What do you guys suggest? I'd appreciate your feedback.

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  10. codydemmel4

    codydemmel4 Member

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    I am new here and looking for some advice on what to do about the roll on the back of my suit jacket. I did some research and I think I need to take it to a good tailor and they can take care of it.
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    I had a local tailor take the jacket in a little so I am really hoping the jacket isn't too small and this can be fixed by a good tailor because I highly doubt Jos A Bank will take it back since I had it altered a little and it wasn't from them.
     
  11. RomanOne

    RomanOne Member

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    Aug 7, 2015
    Suit Supply Napoli 40R that I am intending to wear as pictured with jeans or chinos.

    How does the shoulder width look on this?

    Not sure what to do about the creasing...

    Any other input appreciated!

    Thanks!

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    Last edited: Dec 9, 2015
  12. Gavinband

    Gavinband Senior member

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    Another pair of trousers and same issue. At the back leg it rides over the back of my shoes a lot. I suspect so much is wrong... Any advice would be amazing. Calf on this one is wider than one previously posted but trousers still push back and cannot get w nice straight line down the front.

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  13. albertm

    albertm Member

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    Hey StyleForum Expert Tailors! I need your help [​IMG]


    I ordered a tuxedo from Indochino but am having a problem getting the collar to fit right. Here's a shot of the jacket standing normal and buttoned:


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    And here's a shot of the SAME jacket but pulled in at the stomach (button):

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    My question to all the experts out there - is it enough to ask them to pull-in the stomach (about -2.5")? Will this fix my problem with the collar gap noted above or is there something else I might have missed?



    Thanks!!
     
  14. Xcaliber

    Xcaliber Member

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    First MTM suit received from BlackLapel, critics and suggestions welcome. Please let me know if you see any issue and if any adjustment needed by tailor.

    Note: Please ignore my mis-aligned left elbow, broke it 30+ years ago and the doc never had it fixed properly.




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    https://www.flickr.com/photos/13715639@N07/shares/3X2cf1
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. jasperj

    jasperj Member

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    Sep 9, 2015
    How do you feel about it?
    I think it fits perfect and is a realy nice looking suit
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. flvinny521

    flvinny521 Senior member

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    Location:
    Palm Beach, FL
    No offense, but this thread is supposed to be for tailors to reply (or at least well-respected and knowledgeable members). I see a few things wrong or sub-optimal, but will refrain until somebody meeting those criteria weigh in. I'm also interested because all of my suits have the same folds under my arms on both sides (visible in the rear view), which I assume are related to shoulder slope/armhole positioning.

    I have a few pics of my altered jacket sleeves. At rest, the length seems good, despite a difference in the length of my arms that makes one cuff show more than the other. However, while typing, the jacket sleeves pull up way past my shirt cuffs, which drives me crazy. I know these pics aren't going to be enough to diagnose the whole situation, but does anybody have tips? Is it actually my shirt sleeve that's too long so it doesn't retract when I lift my arms? Is it some other fit issue, perhaps the shoulders of the jacket?

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    Last edited: Dec 18, 2015
  17. Xcaliber

    Xcaliber Member

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    I'm just guessing but here's what I think may be a concern:

    1)Jacket Length
    I think the jacket length may be an issue to taller people but I've deliberately made this particular jacket shorter, so it look more propositional to my body type. I'm only 5.6"...a traditional longer jacket is going to make my legs look that much shorter, long torso + short legs = look like monkey. lol

    Here's a different angle view of the suit:
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    Concern #2) Waist suppression
    I think the waist suppression is a bit over the top (even for a slim cut), it doesn't pull or anything like that, the rear seems to conform to my back evenly. And as you can see from my previous post/pictures this jacket did not have the 'X' stretch pattern at the front, wonder if I should let my local tailor let out the jacket another inch or two?

    #3)Shoulder length
    I think I could drop 1/2~1" on the shoulder length to get rid of the slight pivots? but I've also notice a lot of British cut looks kinda like that, so I'm not sure....

    #4)Jacket Closure
    Notice the 2nd/bottom button area leave a pretty big gap showing the bottom of my tie (see picture below), none of my other suits look like this, here is a direct comparison to two of my suits, not sure if this was designed on purpose, or due to the aggressive waist suppression
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    note: charcoal one is the al-cheapo $250 Macy's Bar III slim-fit (tailored), and the black one is a $2K MTM custom made in Italy suit which i bought from a reputable local shop from Alexandria downtown. Also notice the difference in jacket length and lapel style/width on all three jackets.



    Not sure what causes the under arm folds/crease but i don't think it's too bad on this particular jacket, The black color MTM italian suit from a local shop had even more folds/crease, the tailor mentioned to me that a normal suit should have a little extra fabric/room in that area to provide flexibility to aid in arm movement, he warned that the suit may end up being more rigid if I completely flatten/smooth out that area, well i ignored his warning to pursue a perfect looking suit so I insisted on getting it 'fixed', well.... it came back looking great with all the folds gone at the rear under arm area, unfortunately his warning came true, now the under arm at the rear feels restricted whenever i cross my arms or extended forward.
     
  18. lcadena

    lcadena Member

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    Nov 17, 2015
    I decided to take the plunge and bought a couple of suits from Oliver Wicks a month ago. The first one arrived yesterday and I have to say that I'm pretty happy overall. Oliver Wicks offered to remake the jacket because they used the wrong-color lining, which was very nice of them, so I have an opportunity to tweak the jacket, which I think needs at least some changes to fit me right and look good (for example, I'd like to get rid the folds of fabric in the back right next to the bottom of the armholes--no idea how to fix that, though). I'm no tailor, so please let me know what this suit needs. As for the pants, they have too much taper below the knee, but I think they fit fine otherwise. Suggestions


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  19. Ttailor

    Ttailor Senior member

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    135
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    May 27, 2011
    Location:
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    1. Length- looks like the hem is much shorter in the back. The fold under the arms at the back are sometimes caused by jacket having squarer cut shoulders than the wearer, but in your case it looks more like the back needs a bit more adjusting (needs more length, possibly a bit of width)to fit better over the blades and upper back, because it may be dragging the fronts towards the back causing issue 4. Letting the waist out will not fix this. 3.fix other back issue detailed above. Do you mean divots? Shortening the length of the shoulder seam will not help at all, if your upper sleeve has divots, it is more likely that the sleeve shape is quite narrow at the top and / or the xcross back of the jacket is too fitted and the sleeve is compensating for it.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. Xcaliber

    Xcaliber Member

    Messages:
    5
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    Nov 24, 2015
    Is it possible that the fold under arms at the back could be due to the yoke and the width from shoulder to should at the back being too long on the jacket?

    Thanks for the comments
     

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