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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Canadianguy

    Canadianguy Senior member

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    Location:
    Ottawa, Canada
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    UPDATE!
    Based on your observations (ericjens), I had the center back taken out nearly an inch, which I think has helped make the back drape better. However, there still seems to be a balance problem with the back being shorter than the front. This is really bothering me as I feel like the back is riding up and my rear end is not covered sufficiently. Please help: is there any way to correct this? I read in another thread that extra fabric needs to be added above the shoulder blades... is this a thing? Any advice is much appreciated! Thanks all
     
  2. ericjens7

    ericjens7 Active Member

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    It looks much better. But you are right the back is still too short. It's not terrible because from what I can see from the photos the back isn't kicking out tremendously. You are correct in saying that the only way to fix this problem is by lengthening the back at the shoulders.
    As a side note, the fronts should be longer than the back but only by 1/2 centimeter.
     
  3. Canadianguy

    Canadianguy Senior member

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    Thanks for the quick reply. Is lengthening from the back shoulders a complicated and expensive procedure? I'm guessing so. Would the tailor be able to use existing fabric for the alteration or would we have to order some in?
     
  4. ericjens7

    ericjens7 Active Member

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    I'm not sure on the cost but it would be time consuming for an alterationist and possibly difficult. It would also depend on if whoever made up the coat left allowance in the shoulder. My guess is most likely not. Honestly if I were you, and I didn't get this coat bespoke, I would leave it as is. Not worth the money to have it fixed.
     
  5. Canadianguy

    Canadianguy Senior member

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    It is bespoke, and it cost me a small fortune (on a musician's salary). I'm just trying to educate myself on what needs to be done before I go and take it back to the tailor.

    If there is no allowance in the seam, is it possible to add more fabric? Are there any other specific instructions I should give to the tailor?

    Thanks for taking time the time (on a sunday no less) to help me out here. As you can see I'm determined to get the fit of this jacket as close to perfect as possible at this point.
     
  6. ericjens7

    ericjens7 Active Member

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    Sorry but if there isn't any inlay at the shoulder then you are out of luck. Fabric can't be added without it being visible. I personally can't see anything else that needs fixing. Good luck and I hope it all turns out well.
     
  7. Canadianguy

    Canadianguy Senior member

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    Thanks a lot Eric, you're advice has been really helpful. I really appreciate it.
     
  8. sjmin209

    sjmin209 Senior member

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    I'd like feedback on 2 items before i head back to the tailor. Any feedback, tips or tweaks would be greatly appreciated.

    The first, a navy suit:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    The second, a tweed jacket:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  9. jollygoodshow

    jollygoodshow Member

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    Oct 5, 2015
    Hey guys,

    Is there a difference between letting out the seat of a pair of trousers or letting out the waist?

    I went into MJ Bale (decent quality suit store here in Aus) and they fitted four pairs of trousers for me. The crotch and backside of the trousers were too tight and the waist felt pretty tight too. To fix this they said they would let out the waist by 2cm or so. Will doing this fix the seat as well?

    The people who sell the suits aren't tailors so I want to double check.
     
  10. turkoftheplains

    turkoftheplains Senior member

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    Can jacket fronts/quarters be opened? Along a similar line, if the waist needs to be taken in, will doing this make the fronts a bit more open?
     
  11. table21

    table21 Senior member

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    Toronto
    Is there a way to correct this problem I am having with my shirts. I seem to get pulling over the shoulders on almost all shirts I order or buy. Not sure what is causing this. Here is a pic of the last shirt I got

    http://postimg.org/image/rgw6retw3/
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2015
  12. 1up

    1up Senior member

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    Bump?
     
  13. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Hi 1up

    Yea thats one of the drawbacks of the very narrow trouser bottoms.
    The other is that the smaller the bottom ,the larger it makes your feet look.

    Alex
     
  14. 1up

    1up Senior member

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    Yes, that's true, thanks for the comments.

    Any other feedback, on the whole does it look alright?
     
  15. greger

    greger Senior member

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    It seems to me that back in the mid sixties the trousers were a little shorter. Let's say, an inch above the shoe. The bottom of the trousers fell clean, not bunching up because, they would have been held up by resting on the shoe. In other words, the hem or cuffs were hanging, not resting.
     
  16. Koala-T

    Koala-T Senior member

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    See @Roycru 's fits for examples.
     
  17. Roycru

    Roycru Senior member

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    As @Koala-T mentioned, I have continued dressing the way that everyone did when I was at school. Here's a picture that a classmate of mine took at our old school out on the front lawn during lunch in 1965, when we were both Seniors.......

    [​IMG]

    ......the person in the grey suit with his hands in his pockets is the Dean Of Boys, who always thought that all of us were up to no good, and he is interrogating one of the usual suspects. (We were all usual suspects.)

    However, as this illustration (that I found on Dandyism's Facebook page) shows, trousers were short before I was born.......

    [​IMG]

    ......anyone who might be wondering what men used to look like before the internet was invented and all the damn fool silly rules made up might want to look through the thousands of pictures that Voxsartoria has posted.
     
  18. jcmeyer

    jcmeyer Senior member

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    Waist and hips taken out on the suit, waist taken out on the tweed. Both jackets seem short, especially in the front, but if you're going to primarily wear the tweed with denim it's fine, since shorter in that case fits with being more casual. If these are RTW rather than made for you, I would suggest seeing what a size up in both look like but especially the suit which also may be a bit narrow in the shoulders.
     
  19. jcmeyer

    jcmeyer Senior member

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    Hey, I'm catching up a bit on this thread so forgive the very late reply. Looks like you didn't get any takers on your questions - good pictures, though - you tried! What did you end up doing? I would have said return the 36S and try the 34R Lazio. The shoulders on the 36's were too big for you it seemed, though the pants on the 34 looked to be a bit snug up top. You seem to have a hell of a drop from chest to waist.
     
  20. jcmeyer

    jcmeyer Senior member

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    Again, I'm really late to the game so apologies if this doesn't help you since you likely already did whatever you were going to do to this suit. I do hope you didn't slim the pants. For $450, assuming you continue down the path of suit buying and wearing, you'll look back on this as a good learning experience. You're a young guy, appear to be in good shape, and likely thought a slimmer cut would work for you - but there's a big difference between slim and tight. Everything here is too tight, too short, and too small. For your next go (and you may want to see if RTW items work for you before doing MTM again):
    • Wider lapels
    • Wider/softer shoulders - although if you have a dropped right shoulder, I could be wrong about the softer shoulders as that could cause some creasing; that's why trying on a bunch of RTW jackets would help
    • Less waist suppression
    • Lower buttoning point
    • Longer jacket length (by like 2-3", seriously)
    • More room in the seat of your pants
    • More room the whole way down the leg of your pants
    • Less tapering of your pants
    Don't worry, very few people outside of this forum will really notice these things, you're young so you get a pass anyway, and making mistakes is a big part of learning. I did an Indochino suit much like yours when I first started and it set me on the path even if it was terrible by my current standards (where there is still plenty of room for improvement).
     
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2015

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