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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. DThomas

    DThomas New Member

    Messages:
    4
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    Jul 8, 2015
    I have similar problem (your doesn't look as severe as mine though) with good fitting shoulders, neck and front but a back that has vertical bunching. I got some suggestion, have a look at last post on page 391 from Depos.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. jsant09

    jsant09 New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2015
    Edit: Took this suit to my tailor. She said the jacket length is alright as is, and would cost $65 to shorten. In her opinion, it's not worth it. She's shortening the sleeves and I'm sleeping on the decision if I want to go ahead and shorten the jacket. It's for my wedding, so of course I want to look as good as possible. What do you guys think?

    Also, she hemmed the pants already but looking at them now they seem a bit too baggy? If so, how can that be fixed?

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2015
  3. TheloniusDrunk

    TheloniusDrunk Senior member

    Messages:
    318
    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    Location:
    Tomorrow
    So here are my new pair of Luxire trial pants, was hoping for some educated input (@Despos ) to tell me how I can best alter these to not be so restrictive.

    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]

    I want about 1"-1 1/2" all around in the seat area - is that as simple as specifying each measurement with that extra room (e.g. hip + .75", front rise + 1.5", back rise +1.5" etc.) or does the sum of all those affect the fit more than just adding measurements would seem?

    Also I think I need to add at least .5-1" of space in the thigh, knee, and ankle opening areas. Any input would be greatly appreciated and well received.
     
  4. mk nautilus

    mk nautilus Member

    Messages:
    8
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    Apr 26, 2015
    This is my slim sharkskin suit from T.M.Lewin. My first foray into the world of smart clothing, I'm after any advise on fit and alterations.
    [​IMG]
    I'm 6'2, 170lbs, and the jacket is a 40L. Whilst my shoulders seem to fit perfectly, I feel the body of the suit is a little tent-like (I have a 31" waist). Whilst I'm at the tailor having the waist taken in, is there a anything else I need to be made aware of?
    How is the fit?

    Thanks
     
  5. DavideMiguel85

    DavideMiguel85 Senior member

    Messages:
    133
    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2013
    

    I find it hard to judge the shoulders/chest because of the lower angle, but are you confident it is the right size here? It seems a little off shape on the chest/shoulders, but this could be the lighting. Did you try a 38L?

    I'd be cautious with waist suppression unless you are confident the shoulders and chest are perfect, as you may end up with something even worse. The actual shape looks okay as it is.

    The cuffs need reducing.

    I wouldn't discredit TMLewin as I do have a sports jacket from them which is one of my favourites and fits great, finished really well, but the suit is quite generic, so if you're not happy don't rule out looking elsewhere.
     
  6. mk nautilus

    mk nautilus Member

    Messages:
    8
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    Apr 26, 2015
    

    Thanks, That's great feedback. The 38L was too tight across my shoulders, it was restricting. I don't feel as though the 40L fits fantastic, but for my shoulders (which I understand is most important/ hardest to alter)
     
  7. bdavro23

    bdavro23 Senior member

    Messages:
    933
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    Mar 11, 2014
    I recently purchased 10 dress shirts of outstanding quality that fit me superbly, with the exception that the arms are about two inches too long. I was offered a price that was unable to be refused, so despite the sleeve length issue, I bought. As I am learning how to do some alterations myself (because its fun and I like learning) I had planned on practicing on some old shirts and then doing the alteration myself.

    Presuming there is enough fullness in the upper arm, can I do the alteration from the shoulder? Is this exponentially harder than removing the cuff, placket, etc and putting it back together? Thoughts?

    @Despos and any other tailor who'd like to warn me of pitfalls.
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2015
  8. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,335
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2003
    Location:
    NYC
    

    it will work better if you remove the sleeve placket and shorten from the cuff.

    make sure you allow for shrinkage before shortening.

    if you find it too daunting, i can give you the name of a woman who will do a great job.
     
  9. JamesNiven

    JamesNiven Active Member

    Messages:
    30
    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2015
    Location:
    Irvine, California
    I'm planning on buying the Benjamin sartorial tuxedo from Ehaberdasher. I'm 5'6" and usually wear a jacket of 29.25" boc to bottom length. The 38r is 28.75" long and the 38l is 30" long. I usually wear a 23.75" long sleeve. The sleeve length on the 38r is 26" and 27.5" on the 38l. The sleeves come without buttons and surgeon cuffs can be added. Which size do you guys think I should get. I fit bb fitz 38s well.
     
  10. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,335
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2003
    Location:
    NYC
    

    5' 6" is a short.. not a regular..

    and working buttonholes on a tuxedo is not necessary
     
  11. JamesNiven

    JamesNiven Active Member

    Messages:
    30
    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2015
    Location:
    Irvine, California
    

    I thought that you should go by measured size? The buttons aren't attached so how much can I shorten the sleeves if needed?
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2015
  12. beyondmars2020

    beyondmars2020 Senior member

    Messages:
    124
    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2010
    

    I'm not a tailor nor an expert, but your height generally corresponds to a short jacket size.

    Your body proportions (eg an unusually long torso) or personal preference could affect your sizing, but it'd be very unusual for someone your height to be well suited for a long jacket.

    EhaberDasher makes excellent products and accepts returns, so you're probably best off ordering both jackets, plus the short if available, and seeing which fits best.
     
  13. JamesNiven

    JamesNiven Active Member

    Messages:
    30
    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2015
    Location:
    Irvine, California
    Usually I do fit short sizes like the 38s fitz bb which has a 29.25 length.
     
  14. nblogical

    nblogical Member

    Messages:
    9
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2015
    Seeking: Fit check and advice on Combat Gent slim fit suit, 36S, charcoal.
    Stats: 5'7'', 145lbs, average/slim build
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    As you can tell, the camera angle is angled down slightly.

    Full album (360 degree view): http://imgur.com/a/5fyBm

    Personal thoughts: shoulder pads too big, side sleeve wrinkle (how to fix this?), hows the jacket length?, content with sleeve length, 34S or 34R might be too tight on the chest area
    Need feedback please!
    Thanks.
     
  15. RichardHarrow

    RichardHarrow Member

    Messages:
    22
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    Oct 4, 2014
    I know the price point for their stuff is very attractive, but you should shop around a bit more. It's not that flattering on you and I'm not sure a tailor can do much to help this out.
     
  16. nblogical

    nblogical Member

    Messages:
    9
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    Jul 18, 2015
    Thanks for the feedback. Can you tell me a little more about what's wrong with it? I'm visiting the tailor Tuesday, so I want to see if the tailor brings up the same points. If not, I'm going to bring them up and see what he says.
     
  17. RichardHarrow

    RichardHarrow Member

    Messages:
    22
    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2014
    Shoulder divots look pretty prominent. The average person probably wouldn't know otherwise, but it is signs of a suit that doesn't really conform well with your upper body.
    Quote:
    Taken from here. http://threads.dappered.com/showthr...r-Divots-What-actually-causes-shoulder-divots

    Try another maker. You can do much better than this. Unless you're in dire need of a suit, but IMHO if you can spend a bit more, definitely shop around some.
     
  18. Hawberry

    Hawberry Member

    Messages:
    8
    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2014
    One thing you can do is to have a tailor change the sleeve pitch. The reason that the sleeves are bunched up in the back is that your arms are hanging further back than the angle at which the sleeves are attached to the coat.
     
  19. nblogical

    nblogical Member

    Messages:
    9
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2015
    Thanks for the positive feedback! I've already started looking into SuitSupply as I've heard some positive reviews about them. Seems like I'm going to have to return it. I want to see if changing the sleeve pitch will help it at all. I wish this suit could work out as I only got it for $136!

    I will have the tailor look at if changing the sleeve pitch can help it at all.
     
  20. RichardHarrow

    RichardHarrow Member

    Messages:
    22
    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2014
    I have two suits coming in from SuSu tomorrow, both in the York fit. I'm thinking these will work well for my needs, i just hope they fit correctly!
     

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