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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. dobbs383

    dobbs383 New Member

    Messages:
    3
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    Apr 3, 2015
    Thanks Despos, my tailor has already indicated he can make adjustments the next time he is in town at no charge. Would this be a relatively easy fix?
     
  2. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
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    Mar 16, 2006
    They can look the suit over and make the necessary adjustments. Wouldn't worry about adjusting the front length and they can diagnose the cause of the wrinkles on the sleeves. Neither issue is an easy fix and the result is dependent on their diagnosis and ability to execute the alteration.
     
  3. Penfold

    Penfold Senior member

    Messages:
    241
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    Jun 8, 2014
    Location:
    London
    Going to have an odd jacket made up in a strongly patterned rough tweed.

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    My tailor/cutter is quite obstinate about doing this with a one-piece back. These are two examples of one-piece back jackets made for other clients.

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    which look pretty good.

    But so far we're only one fresco blazer into the tailor-client relationship though (a sacrificial offering to use as a warm-up)

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    So my question to all you tailors is this:

    Should I allow him to go with the one-piece back, fearing that it might be i) restrictive to my movement ii) impossible to alter well, or insist on normal construction. What are your views on the one-piece back please?

    Edit - I will insist that the coat is gently shaped but not actually tightly fitted, so it can be worn easily over a shirt and thick sweater. To my mind a tweed jacket of this kind is closer to outerwear than a suit coat and comfort is paramount.
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2015
  4. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Mar 16, 2006
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2015
  5. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

    Messages:
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    Aug 6, 2008
    Location:
    Shanghai
    
    The back of your fresco blazer is messy. Better ask him to prove he can do normal back well enough before you jump to one-piece.
     
  6. cond

    cond Member

    Messages:
    15
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    Dec 14, 2013
    Not sure, if this (high quality) suit is worth keeping and altering.
    While the image quality isn't the best, the suit needs a pressing - the vertical wrinkles aren't fit issues.

    - The pants would need an overhaul.
    - Sleeves need shortening from above.
    - Do you think the back can be - satisfactorily - fixed?
    - Interesting thing: my left shoulder on the front has those horizontal lines running to the chest pocket. While I know that my shoulders slope and my left shoulder is a bit lower than the right one,
    it'd be interesting, if this will be gone after a pressing or the sloping is the cause.
    The ripples on the back shoulder blade coming from the front let me think it's caused by the sloping. But I never had that clearly different effect between my left and right shoulder.
    - Do you think the front between arms and lapels can be fixed?

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    Updated Pic:
    a little pressing drastically improved the back wrinkling.
    The front "bubbling" on the left was also improved, but I think there's still a little bit too much fabric on the front between shoulder
    an lapel (maybe a few mm).

    [​IMG]

    Edit: Super-strange, why the seam on the left sleeve back is visibly running to the cuff, but not on the right sleeve.
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2015
  7. scatterbrain

    scatterbrain Senior member

    Messages:
    612
    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2011
    Location:
    Toronto
    I feel like this jacket looks alright when undone:



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    But when I do it up, everything goes to hell:

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    Is this jacket just too short? is the balance off? Is it too tight at the waist? All of the above?

    I may help you to know that I have short T-Rex arms and a long torso. I also have a "prominant rear" and a spare tire around my waist.

    It it worth trying to have it altered, or should I just wear it as an open-only jacket?

    More pics below for diagnosis purposes:
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  8. BrooksLauren77

    BrooksLauren77 Senior member

    Messages:
    1,405
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2013
    Location:
    TrudeauLand
    Scatterbrain: I think that jacket is too short and buttons too high for your physique. I think you would look better with a lower buttoning point and a jacket of traditional length. The buttoning point only makes your hips look wider which is exacerbated by the pockets; flap pockets would look better.

    I also think you'd benefit from some drape in the chest and that overall, that jacket is all wrong for your body. Just my opinion.
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2015
    2 people like this.
  9. ShakeEmUp

    ShakeEmUp Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    71
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    Sep 2, 2013
    I need to sell an old suit that I outgrew, and I want to ensure that I don't screw anybody over by selling them a suit that doesn't fit.

    Is there a good guide to taking proper measurements?
     
  10. CaliSun

    CaliSun New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2015
    Can you guys look at the fit of this suit and let me know if there's any alterations you would recommend and/or what about the fit I should keep in mind changing for future suits? I apologize for the poor lighting.

    I'm also unsure whether this suit has been pressed yet or not.


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    Last edited: Apr 15, 2015
  11. mikeyam1975

    mikeyam1975 Member

    Messages:
    9
    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2015
    Also posted in Suitsupply NYC thread.

    Please help me critique my Sienna NavyPlain Pure Wool S140's in 36R. Also, I'm reposting myself in Sienna Blue Plain Pure Wool S140's in 34R for comparison of fit.

    36R

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    Myself in 34R

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  12. SuitsHarvey

    SuitsHarvey Member

    Messages:
    12
    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2013
    http://www.styleforum.net/t/250682/suitsupply-nyc/8790#post_7819574

    I'd be glad if I could get some feedback on my SuitSupply suit. Some things I already noticed:
    - arm sleeves are too tight for double cuff shirts(a bit more room for the shirt cuffs is needed)
    - pants could be a little bit shorter and less bunching in the back; could be also a bit "roomier"
    - less wrinkles on the shoulders and the back
    - length of the suit should be ok, butt is covered

    Do you guys think it's possible to make it decent or is this a total fail and I shouldn't have any hope for this suit? Any other things you guys can notice on the photo?

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  13. blinks112

    blinks112 Member

    Messages:
    5
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    May 17, 2012
    Hello! This Brooks Brothers sport coat arrived for me today, and I was wondering if it was salvageable.
    I'm still pretty new at spotting things, but what stood out to me the most are:
    - Bows out a little in the chest
    - Pulled too tight across the back and around waist
    - Some dimpling under the shoulders, which is actually much worse when I move my arms back or out

    Other concerns are that the arms might be a bit tight and the button stance high? (second button is about at belt level)

    I'm guessing there are too many problems to make this worth keeping, but since I've seen these problems in a lot of coats I've tried on (I think my chest diameter is big for my shoulder width) I wanted to know how much is fixable and how difficult it would be.

    Thanks!

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  14. CaliSun

    CaliSun New Member

    Messages:
    4
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    Mar 1, 2015
    Anyone?
     
  15. Ttailor

    Ttailor Senior member

    Messages:
    135
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    May 27, 2011
    Location:
    Canada
    
    I would not recommend keeping it. Balance is quite off, it is also a bit too tight, big job to fix with no guarantee of a satisfactory result.
     
  16. scatterbrain

    scatterbrain Senior member

    Messages:
    612
    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2011
    Location:
    Toronto
    
    Any comments @Despos, or the other tailors? Would appreciate insight!
     
  17. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    Do you feel pressure on your shoulder points? At the end of the shoulder just before the sleeve

    Just a front view doesn't provide much info for diagnosis
     
  18. bLaZ3n

    bLaZ3n Senior member

    Messages:
    197
    Joined:
    Mar 5, 2013
    Location:
    NY
    Im in NY/LI looking for a competent tailor to work on a few pieces.. any recommendations from SFers? or can anyone point me to the right topic to ask in. Thanks.
     
  19. CasperK

    CasperK Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2015
    Picked up my suit today from the tailor and had him take a few pics. I'm wearing a shirt much too large for me which is probably creating some of the bunching shown. My main concerns regarding the fit involve the jacket length and the taper on the trousers. The jacket length just covers my rear but the pants are a little high waisted so I feel like it is making the jacket appear longer than it actually is. Also, I feel like the taper on the trousers may be a little too aggressive and is causing them too look awkward. I believe the leg opening on them is around 6.25". Any suggestions/advice would be most appreciated. Thanks in advance.



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    Last edited: Apr 24, 2015
  20. Ttailor

    Ttailor Senior member

    Messages:
    135
    Joined:
    May 27, 2011
    Location:
    Canada
    
    Yes, too tapered. In fact no one will notice anything but the trousers.
     

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