The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Despos]



[COLOR=222222][COLOR=222222]I Just have my second fitting today and in looks much better. Still could use some improvement tough. Please ignore the bad tie[/COLOR][/COLOR]

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

[COLOR=222222] [/COLOR]

[COLOR=222222]It looks like I really could use fuller upper arm. The lower back is still a mess but tailor said ironing will solve it. is this true? [COLOR=32454E]How about the pants? is the taper too much?[/COLOR][/COLOR]

The trouser needs to be adjusted on the inseam. You stand a bit knock-kneed, The front parts need to be shifted down and the back part up. This will help the leg fall better. They came a long way from the first fitting but still have some adjusting to do. Hope they can clean things up around the front chest, raise the collar and get you some more room around the middle. Let us see after your next fitting

 

[Despos]

These fit pretty well. You want the back to hang as well as the front, correct?

Yes. Is that possible or am I wrong?

This can be altered if you find a technically skilled tailor who understands pattern manipulation for posture effects. To alter this trouser isn't difficult and you don't require much adjusting but to do so disrupts the look of the back seat area. The side seam on the back part has to be taken in from o at mid thigh to 3/4" at the top of the outseam and then lower the waist band on the back part. The pockets will not be parallel to the waistband after this and look askew. The back pocket will be closer to the side seam as well. That's the negative part of making the alteration.

You would love the way I cut trousers!

 

[Betelgeuse]



This can be altered if you find a technically skilled tailor who understands pattern manipulation for posture effects. To alter this trouser isn't difficult and you don't require much adjusting but to do so disrupts the look of the back seat area. The side seam on the back part has to be taken in from o at mid thigh to 3/4" at the top of the outseam and then lower the waist band on the back part. The pockets will not be parallel to the waistband after this and look askew. The back pocket will be closer to the side seam as well. That's the negative part of making the alteration.

You would love the way I cut trousers!

Thanks! Will comment this with my tailor, although I think he might not know how to do it.

I need to renovate my Visa and plan a visit to your workshop!

 

[Chris-ModaR]

Here's a Tom Ford suit I bought recently. Material is a wool/silk/linen blend. Colour is actually a dark charcoal, just looks brown in these shots, which are heavily post-processed due to poor lighting.

I would like some advice about jacket sleeve length (plus any other observations our resident tailors may care to make).









A couple of my own observations:

- It's a typical Tom Ford cut, probably not to everyone's taste, but I like it.

- the crease at the right upper back, below the shoulder, was from the jacket being compressed in the wardrobe. It follows the line of the shoulder pad. Maybe there's a bit too much material across the upper back? Minor issue, the crease is usually not there.

- you can see particularly in the second shot, that I have a mid-thoracic spinal kyphosis (due to teenage Scheuermann's Disease, confirmed on lateral chest X-ray). In order to keep my head up, I have to throw my stomach forward. Not much I can do about that. I mention it for the sake of completeness.

My most pressing issue is the sleeves - I think they are too long. But there is only 4cm between the sleeve edge and the base of the first button. Could I have them shortened a little, say 1.5cm taken from the end, or would this (a) make the buttons too close to the sleeve edge, (b) throw out the balance of the suit? If OTOH I have them shortened at the top, isn't this both a much bigger and much riskier undertaking?

Thanks for your collective feedback.

Hey Coxsackie,

Beautiful suit. I would love to one day have a Tom Ford suit! I've walked in their store a few times just to look at their products out of a love for clothing and I just love their level of detail. From what I can see, no major changes need to be made if the crease you mention is indeed from being compressed. I will say though that if you could take photos in a brigher lit environment it would be more helpful! Your surrounding being dark makes it a bit hard to see any finer details of your brown suit.

For the sleeve, I personaly usually recommend my clients have their sleeves end approximately where the little piece of bone that sticks out from the pinky side of your hand is. You should see approx how much further your sleeve is than that point right now. I'm guessing your suit has working buttonholes hence your concern with the buttons being too close to the sleeve edge. It's such a nice piece that I wouldn't risk throwing that proportion off. You could get it shortened from the top of the sleeve but you should check how much it costs but honestly, if you have a Tom Ford suit, it's worth the extra money to have it right. My only concern is whether or not they can shorten it the amount it has to be though. Hope this helps! Don't shorten it from the sleeve end, but if you do, make it a combination of sleeve end and sleeve top if it can't be done completely from the top!

-Chris

 

[OTCtailor]

This is my first MTM suit from ProperSuit. It came out not as well as I expected, but I would appreciate any specific comments or advice. Someone suggested I post in this thread to get a professional opinion.
Also curious about what is going on with the strange lines on the pants and how can that be fixed.

Please click the spoiler link to see more pictures






^ click for more pictures

Thanks

It looks to me like the garment was created without adjusting for a few things like the slope of your shoulders and your posture. The swayback and forward hips may not have been accounted for because the jacket back balance is too long. Everything looks too tight as well.

 

[Dingusberry]

How high should the rise of my chinos be? I am going to order a pair of MTM chinos and want to make sure it's not too low. My last order had a 9'' rise, and I think that was way too low.
For reference, I am 5'7''.

Edit: I also had a problem with gaping pockets. I read a post about increasing the seat to remove the gaping pockets. But what do I change if there is no option for "seat" but there is options for "half hips", "hip front only" and "thighs".

 

[Douglas]

*Important Disclosure: I am not a tailor.

Rise is a matter of personal choice, though when you go MTM you are constrained by the pattern. If the pattern is for a low-rise pant, sure, you can make some minor adjustments, but you can't make a pattern that was designed to be low rise into a high rise trouser, and vice-versa. When you go bespoke, you can go as high or as low as you want; the tailor can adjust the pattern to whatever you need.

I think higher rise "dress" trousers tend make everyone look better, but that's probably just me.

Your particular rise in inches is so particular to your body that I don't know anyone can tell you the absolute answer, though a tailor with a lot of facility with these measurements on a lot of different bodies might be able to generalize along the lines of "9 inches is awfully short for most people." (I don't know if that's true or not)

 

[OTCtailor]



This can be altered if you find a technically skilled tailor who understands pattern manipulation for posture effects. To alter this trouser isn't difficult and you don't require much adjusting but to do so disrupts the look of the back seat area. The side seam on the back part has to be taken in from o at mid thigh to 3/4" at the top of the outseam and then lower the waist band on the back part. The pockets will not be parallel to the waistband after this and look askew. The back pocket will be closer to the side seam as well. That's the negative part of making the alteration.

You would love the way I cut trousers!

D,

On the trousers he has pictured, the alteration isnt severe. My question is what would the effect be if instead of lowering the waistband at the back, the entire back part of each leg was shifted upwards into the waistband along with taking the side seam in at the hips? I did this for a client but the problem was much more extreme.
Other than it being much more labor, would it create a shift in the knee/leg area almost like adjusting for bow legs or knock knees?

 

[Betelgeuse]

Quote: D,

On the trousers he has pictured, the alteration isnt severe. My question is what would the effect be if instead of lowering the waistband at the back, the entire back part of each leg was shifted upwards into the waistband along with taking the side seam in at the hips? I did this for a client but the problem was much more extreme.
Other than it being much more labor, would it create a shift in the knee/leg area almost like adjusting for bow legs or knock knees?

Despos and OTC, why if I pull the waistband from the center back with my hand, all the creases are gone? I think that using suspender would fix the creases.

 

[Despos]

Because lifting the trouser at the center back has the same effect as lowering the waistband.

Even if you get the trouser cut properly and they hang straight from the seat, that area stretches from wearing and sitting and will wrinkle some again. Then you have to shape them up with an iron.

Suspenders will help some by holding them up.

 

[Betelgeuse]



Because lifting the trouser at the center back has the same effect as lowering the waistband.

Even if you get the trouser cut properly and they hang straight from the seat, that area stretches from wearing and sitting and will wrinkle some again. Then you have to shape them up with an iron.

Suspenders will help some by holding them up.

Nice! Thank you!

 

[Naf Nasitra]

I'm useless when it comes to sizing jackets. I've got 4 I'm trying to decide between, and could use some feedback. I do know I have weird shoulders. Apologies for the poor photo quality.
#1

#2 (a size larger than #1)

#3

#4

Thanks in advance for your feedback.

 

[OTCtailor]

side profile pics would help....alot.

 

[Katt]

Whoops, double post, my mistake!

 

[Katt]

Hello! Need help with my Suitsupply Napoli suit, i am 172 cm and weigh 68 kgs, i've always felt that suits are a bit too long for me, and this is the first serious suit i've bought.

I have taken in the sides, shortened the sleeves and fixed the neck at a tailor. However, is it too long for me? I think my arms may a bit short compared to my body. The suit reached between end of thumb and end of pointing finger.

Sorry for the bad pictures and everything, but i would be very happy with some help. Is the waist good? Should i shorten the jacket up to one inch?