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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Despos

    Despos Senior member

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    Besides the length it's one or two sizes too big. Try another size or brand
     
  2. ianGP

    ianGP Senior member

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    Location:
    Washington, DC
    Thanks for the input @Despos !

    This was already a 38... so yeah, will def have to try a diff brand and go down to a 36 :nodding:
     
  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member

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    Other makers may size their jackets differently. You might find a 38 or 36 in a trimmer cut that will work for you. Ralph Lauren did one a few years ago that was very trim. You have to keep looking, it's a great coat to have. I have had 3 peacoats,very versatile garment.
     
  4. ianGP

    ianGP Senior member

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    Yup, this is an RLPL - I'm a 38S on their line and was a bit take back when it didn't... oh well, back to the hunt!
     
  5. aDrummingDude

    aDrummingDude Senior member

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    Apr 19, 2014
    Location:
    Santa Rosa, CA
    How much do a gentleman's shoulders typically grow/shrink by gaining or losing weight?

    I'm this weird in-between 41-42 jacket size depending on the cut, however my more svelte, 20 year old self used to fit into 40's quite nicely (granted though that was when suit shoulders were commonly cut a bit bigger than they are now). Since then I've gained probably about 40lbs, going from slightly underweight to slightly overweight, and I have a bear of a time finding jackets which have good fitting shoulders OTR.

    If I lose 20 lbs, should my shoulders back in to the smaller size jacket?[​IMG]
     
  6. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

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    For the man with a larger seat compared to his waist, is it best to stay away from double vented jackets, or just go bespoke?

    I ask because I noticed a number of jackets I have purchased recently all have double vents. Despite the chest and waist fitting a little large, which can be fixed, the vent lies perfectly against my bum with no flare at all. But when I try to imagine how the body looks after alterations and taking it in, I pull slightly at the buttoning point and begin noticing the double vent to not stay as flush and the curtain to being flaring slightly.

    Is the jacket just not cut right for my body type?

    I don't notice this much for single vented jackets. Care to explain?

    What in particular should I tell the alteration tailor so that the seat / vent does not go skewed from altering (waist/chest) the body? I shouldn't assume they know this. I fear their focus is drawn to the overall shape of the body without a second look at the entire silhouette.

    How can I communicate clearly, and what lingo should I use?


    edit:
    For an example of what OTR jacket looks like, double vented and no alterations done, see here: http://www.styleforum.net/t/265924/...-alteration-suggestions/5200_100#post_7405837

    Keep in mind the jacket is entirely unlined except for the sleeves and is a linen/cotton mix.
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2014
  7. jeffd

    jeffd Senior member

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    Everyone's body is different, but probably. It surprised me when I lost weight because my shoulders previously had no perceptible fat on them, yet my 42's were suddenly hanging off my shoulders by an inch. Weight loss will take some lean mass as well, so that is at least part of it. Part of it also is that when you're thinner, you will tend to wear closer fitting clothes.

    But if you're talking about losing only half of the 40lbs you think you need to lose, you might not notice it as much. It was in the second half of my weight loss where suddenly I was going from a large to a small in all my clothes.
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2014
  8. aDrummingDude

    aDrummingDude Senior member

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    Great answer, Jeff. Thanks!
     
  9. oolongtea

    oolongtea Member

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    9
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    Sep 30, 2012
    Hi there,

    Any feedback regarding the below fit would be appreciated, in particular how to get rid of the lines running between chest and waist/hips, and also how to add some more "shape" to the back.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Thanks heaps!

    Cheers,
    Oolong
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2014
  10. Despos

    Despos Senior member

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    Slope shoulder line, adjust for low left shoulder, reduce/shape the back at the waist.
     
  11. Veridis

    Veridis Well-Known Member

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    Oct 1, 2012
    Hello Everyone! I would really appreciate it if you could share some thoughts on my new suit.

    This is my second 3pc suit, but the first one that I made at a brick and motar MTM tailor that is highly regarded locally. It costs me about 1200USD (in Singapore). The suit is fully canvassed and partially lined. Just for reference, I am around 5'3", 115lbs.

    Some of my thoughts:

    First, the armholes are not low but they could be higher. What do you guys think?

    Second, I asked for 2.75" lapels, but the lapels are 3.25" instead. I feel that is a little big for someone my size. Didn't notice it because it was unfinished during the first 2 fittings.

    Lastly, there is some weird bunching in my pant's behind. I've complained about this before on my previous pants made with this tailor, saying that the crotch is a little tight. They told me it was fine. I suspect that this is the limit of MTM, but I'm sure the crotch can be let out 1/2 to 1 inch.

    I'm not sure if the armholes and lapels are even alterable by the tailor at this point. However for the price I paid, I would still ask for higher armholes and smaller lapels.



    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Thank you so much for reading!
     
  12. Veridis

    Veridis Well-Known Member

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    Any comments on the lapel size? It would be much appreciated!
     
  13. HughJ

    HughJ Senior member

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    Jun 13, 2011
    

    I'm not a tailor, but the lapels don't look particularly wide to me. The high buttoning point isn't doing you any favours, though.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. Despos

    Despos Senior member

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    My guess is you are measuring the lapels differently than the tailor. Do you measure along the gorge line, the seam where the collar is sewn to the lapel, from the lapel roll to the tip of the lapel?

    Proper method is to measure perpendicular from the break line/roll of the lapel to the tip of the lapel. You will get about 1/2" difference between the two methods of measuring.

    This lapel width is more flattering to my eye than if it were more narrow
     
    3 people like this.
  15. Skatenc123

    Skatenc123 Senior member

    Messages:
    287
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    Jan 14, 2014
    I think the lapel looks great how it is. And wouldn't go down by more then .25 if you decide to make them slimmer. Would also lower the buttoning point. Could you post pics of the full suit on with the vest.
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. Veridis

    Veridis Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Oct 1, 2012
    I think I used this method (black line) to check. Found this photo from an old forum thread. I will check again when I get home!
    For lapel width, I wanted 2.75" because it is around the mid-point between the suit opening and the jacket shoulder, which I believe is the "normal" width without being narrow or wide. I personally prefer a narrower lapel so anything wider than halfway to the shoulder looks weird to me. My measurements are 16.25" shoulders and 33" chest.

    [​IMG]


    The first button should be at my natural waist, it seems 0.5-1" higher in the photos, which is strange. I may be standing too straight for the photos. I've contacted my tailor and will be visiting them tomorrow to get the pants fixed. My tailor tells me that the lapel cannot be altered, and that he did ask me during the second fitting if everything was alright. During the 1st and 2nd fittings the suit was unfinished so I thought the lapels would be smaller.. I feel that they should have consulted me before deviating from the agreed upon width though.
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2014
  17. Veridis

    Veridis Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Oct 1, 2012
    Here are photos with all 3 pieces worn. Thank you all for providing feedback, I am deeply grateful!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  18. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member

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    NYC
    
    not bad considering hoe sloping your shoulders are you need a little more left low. it is also a bit messy around the side of your neck do to forward pointing shoulders the bias split yoke only highlights your sloping shoulders. add darts
     
  19. Katt

    Katt Well-Known Member

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    52
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    Oct 10, 2013
    Just bought my first Luxire pants. What do you think of the fit? Heavy 14 oz / 400 gm Camel Wool Flannel for the Swedish winter.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. Ttailor

    Ttailor Senior member

    Messages:
    135
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    May 27, 2011
    Location:
    Canada
    
    I think lapels are fine. There are things you cannot do anything about now, just to keep in mind for your next suit. The hip pockets are too high. They are too close to your waist. The buttoning point is too high and not flattering. if the first button moved down at least an in maybe a bit more and the pockets shifted down as well it would be better? The waistcoat is cut for a higher waist, which would be ok if the trousers were not cut as low in the rise as they are. The two pieces just seem to fight a bit. I won't say any more about the trousers because I would just be repeating myself. Same problems I see regularly in this thread.
     
    1 person likes this.

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