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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Ttailor

    Ttailor Senior member

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    Canada
    

    I hope that means starting from scratch. I doubt the trousers can be salvaged.
     
  2. 1up

    1up Senior member

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    Yes, starting from scratch.
     
  3. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Tailor's I need to resew a button on my jacket (one of the large front buttons). Best thread, needle to use (is there a gauge for the thread/needle)? I should not pull the needle through the two layers of cloth but just the top? If there's canvas in between the cloth, through the canvas?

    This might be beyond me...but I'm willing to learn.
     
  4. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Senior member

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    Apologies for the poor quality of the photo. I didn't have time to do this in natural light. I edited the photo to highlight the issue in which I'm most interested.

    This is the jacket from a MTM suit. I'm wondering if the amount of rippling across the back is within the acceptable range or if it needs corrections.

    I'm assuming that the bunching in the back of the arms is the result of my posture for the photo or something else since it doesn't show up in a mirror. If one of the tailors thinks otherwise I'd appreciate comments about that as well. Thank you!

    [​IMG]
     
  5. 1up

    1up Senior member

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    Well I went in and we made some changes. We are re-doing the pants,I was assured the color would be the same and a full remake isn't necessary as it's wool and from the same roll.

    The jacket was opened up a bit at the upper back to clear that taut wrinkling, and we increased the sleeve length 0.5cm on the left arm and 1cm on the right (my right arm hangs lower).

    We haven't increased the length of the jacket, I don't think it's too short, especially with a slim suit? I feel like the length isn't too bad, but the associate said once the pants are re-made I can decide if I want to re-do the jacket as well.

    The pants are being re-done, we've increased the taper opening and the length slightly so hopefully it falls better over the shoe. He is of the opinion that the waist + thigh fit well, but it only wrinkles like that because how I stand, and I kind of agree. It doesn't feel exceptionally tight, and I was able to squat with no problem.
     
  6. ter1413

    ter1413 Senior member

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    Jacket IS too short.
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. ter1413

    ter1413 Senior member

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    Looks horrible. That should be fixed.
     
  8. Ttailor

    Ttailor Senior member

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    Yes its your fault they cannot cut a pair of trousers that fit you and look good.
     
  9. Thrifter

    Thrifter Senior member

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    I agree, but it is a MTM program, not bespoke. They use a set pattern.
     
  10. 1up

    1up Senior member

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    But it hits right where most recommendations prescribe it to fall in terms of arm length?

    And when I measure the picture it is exactly 50% of the overall length of the suit??

    Maybe some background would help?

    I'm a consultant for a mining company (Engineer by experience I guess), but the majority of my other suits are very conservative.

    I didn't really intend for this suit to be a daily business environment wearer, mostly for events, dinners, weddings etc;

    I feel like the length is a bit more fashion forward and suits the use/color/fit of the suit? Am I completely wrong?
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2014
  11. HughJ

    HughJ Senior member

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    It should CYA.
     
  12. BBQBEEF

    BBQBEEF New Member

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    Hi tailors!

    i was looking around on the net to find a solution for my shoulder divot problem and chanced upon this post.

    I recently went overseas and got 2 suits tailored. Went for 2 fitting sessions. I highlighted to them that the shoulders looked weird but they brushed it off saying it is normal. This is my first time owning a suit. Please help me identify the problem and recommend the alterations that i need to get it fixed! I'm sorry for the bad pictures [​IMG]

    Thanks for the help!



    [​IMG][​IMG]

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  13. Ttailor

    Ttailor Senior member

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    I am aware of the process and understand that MTM is limited to a degree, but it was a sorry excuse in a broad sense.

    If I stuff someone in a jacket two sizes too small, should I tell them the problem is not with the jacket but with their size?
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2014
  14. Ttailor

    Ttailor Senior member

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    Not normal. Needs a different cut of sleeve for a jacket that sits so close to the body and with the shoulders where they are. Your bicep should not bulge out of the sleeve silhouette, and the structure of the coat shoulder, seam allowances, etc should not be visible. Again, to achieve a slim fit means modifying the pattern shapes, not just making the same pattern shape smaller or stuffing people into a smaller size jacket.
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2014
  15. ianGP

    ianGP Senior member

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    Hey guys, I'm curious if the length of this coat is acceptable... I got a great deal on it and still have the option to return if needed.

    I had to roll up the arms as it was just as long as the coat itself... methinks its supposed to be a pea coat.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Pardon the shots... I can take better ones later today if needed.

    I was thinking if I had the waist cinched abit, it wouldn't have that 'block' look to it that makes my legs look much shorter... thoughts?


    EDIT more shots:
    Shot from below the waist:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Waist level:
    [​IMG]

    Chest level:
    [​IMG]

    And to give you an idea of where my waist/seat of my pants are:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2014
  16. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Senior member

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    Re-posting in case this was overlooked. Thanks for any thoughts about it!

     
  17. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

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    Looks too long in the body, not ridiculous, but with the sleeves worse, it probably should be returned in favor of something with shorter dimensions.
     
  18. Ttailor

    Ttailor Senior member

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    It looks like to coat is wearing you.
     
  19. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    Agree with that...
     
  20. ianGP

    ianGP Senior member

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    womp... i figured.

    I guess I was trying to find little justifications to keep it. It's super nice!


    Thanks for the replies fellas! :cheers:
     

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