The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[gettoasty]

Can any tailor confirm whether this is a 3-roll-2?

Any potential with this one? It is 100% linen. It is final sale and I have been sleeping on this for awhile. TIA

 

[ellsbebc]



Can any tailor confirm whether this is a 3-roll-2?

Any potential with this one? It is 100% linen. It is final sale and I have been sleeping on this for awhile. TIA

With how the lapels roll at the third button, I would think its a 3R2. The only way to truly determine is a picture with the third button unbuttoned.

 

[kulata]



Can any tailor confirm whether this is a 3-roll-2?

Any potential with this one? It is 100% linen. It is final sale and I have been sleeping on this for awhile. TIA

I bought that jacket and returned it. It is close to a hard 3 and the fabric is very very heavy.

 

[renji]

Hello gentlemen

I just have my first fitting for my first suit today. Here's some pic

Some of the point that has been discussed:

• Jacket needs to be longer, maybe by 1"
• Open quarter
• Higher gorge
• Narrower shoulder (or maybe not? I'm not sure)
• Less shoulder padding. I looked like rugby player!

​

I think it's still a bit of a mess, especially the back and the arm but I'm not sure what to tell the tailor to fix it (fuller upper arm perhaps?). The next fitting will be on saturday, along with the fitting for the pants.

Any suggestion for improvement will be very appreciated

 

[Sean McKee]

With your build you need a longer coat. That coat is way too short, you need to add 2-3 inches to where you can just cup the skirt with your fingers. He's trying to put you in a slim fit and it's not a good look for you. In general I think it's very sloppy but it would be nice to seethe final product. Needs lot's of work in the chest as it is very full. Half back same way. What's up wit hthe right sleeve?

 

[gettoasty]

^Thank you for the replies. I will just pass on this jacket. Appreciate it

 

[Despos]



[COLOR=222222]Hello gentlemen[/COLOR]

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

[COLOR=222222]I just have my first fitting for my first suit today. Here's some pic[/COLOR] [COLOR=222222]

[/COLOR] [COLOR=222222]

[/COLOR] [COLOR=222222]

[/COLOR]

[COLOR=222222]Some of the point that has been discussed:[/COLOR]

• Jacket needs to be longer, maybe by 1"
• Open quarter
• Higher gorge
• Narrower shoulder (or maybe not? I'm not sure)
• Less shoulder padding. I looked like rugby player!

​

[COLOR=222222]I think it's still a bit of a mess, especially the back and the arm but I'm not sure what to tell the tailor to fix it (fuller upper arm perhaps?). The next fitting will be on saturday, along with the fitting for the pants.[/COLOR] [COLOR=222222]Any suggestion for improvement will be very appreciated

[/COLOR]

It is too soon to judge on this garment but there is good and bad at present. The good is the type of try-on they prepared they can do a lot of adjusting. Probably the max they can lengthen the jacket is 1.5 inches but that should be ok. The gorge and sleeves don't matter now as much as getting the length and balance right. From this point the jacket is taken apart and reshaped for the next fitting. Shoulders always look bigger and more built up than they will look when the garment is finished.I don't think I would narrow the shoulder but again, it is too soon to tell. I am responding to this thread because I am curious in what country you are having this made. It appears to be a fused garment, not sure if you are aware of that or if you requested it. Some of the thread marks in places are very odd, have never seen them used like this. Is the tailor a man or a woman?

 

[tcbrgs]

Despos can you elaborate on what you describe as a dry sleeve btw?

 

[Despos]



Despos can you elaborate on what you describe as a dry sleeve btw?

Sleeves measure anywhere from 2" to 3" larger than the armhole. The sleeve is basted in distributing fullness at strategic points along the armhole. The more fullness you apply to the sleeve the more skill you need to work it in. When the fullness is on the skimpy side, less fullness rather than more fullness, it is called "dry". The sleeve looks a little flat when it is dry. Less rounded along the front and back where the sleeve drapes.

 

[tcbrgs]

Gotcha, thanks. Im guessing the type of cloth will also dictate how dry/full the sleeve is? It would be much easier to get a full round sleeve on 12oz all wool flannel then it would be on a super 250s 8oz cloth?

 

[Despos]

correct, the amount of fullness will vary with cloth type and weight. Manufacturing process dictates this as well.

 

[Flyswatter]

Let's talk shirt darts for a moment.

I'm a big fan of adding darts to dress shirts to reduce fullness and billowing in the back. I recently took a Charles Tyrwhitt slim fit shirt to a tailor to have it darted. I've had shirts darted by the same tailor with good results before, but on this particular shirt, the darts extended all the way up to the shoulder pleats. I'd never really paid much attention to the height/placement of darts before, but this seems too high; I feel a bit of tightness in the upper back of the shirt and the pleats splay open slightly when I'm standing relaxed with arms handing naturally.

Am I correct to assume that these darts extend to high up the back of the shirt? Any thoughts from the tailors on dart height/placement?

 

[renji]

With your build you need a longer coat. That coat is way too short, you need to add 2-3 inches to where you can just cup the skirt with your fingers. He's trying to put you in a slim fit and it's not a good look for you. In general I think it's very sloppy but it would be nice to seethe final product. Needs lot's of work in the chest as it is very full. Half back same way. What's up wit hthe right sleeve?

We're actually trying to determine the sleeve length of the right sleeve but forgot to remove the pin when we take the photo.

It is too soon to judge on this garment but there is good and bad at present.

The good is the type of try-on they prepared they can do a lot of adjusting. Probably the max they can lengthen the jacket is 1.5 inches but that should be ok. The gorge and sleeves don't matter now as much as getting the length and balance right. From this point the jacket is taken apart and reshaped for the next fitting. Shoulders always look bigger and more built up than they will look when the garment is finished.I don't think I would narrow the shoulder but again, it is too soon to tell.

I am responding to this thread because I am curious in what country you are having this made. It appears to be a fused garment, not sure if you are aware of that or if you requested it. Some of the thread marks in places are very odd, have never seen them used like this. Is the tailor a man or a woman?

I actually asked for a canvassed jacket. Is that not how a canvassed jacket supposed to look at? if so then I should have a talk with the tailor. It's made in Indonesia and the tailor is a man. He did put quite a lot of padding in it. When I asked him about it (since I want little to no padding) he told me that the padding is temporary.

 

[ScottMC]

Recently bought this Howard Yount from a fellow SF member. Its an 85% cashmere 15% silk summer jacket, so I believe it has a very delicate drape, which causes more wrinkles/movement lines to be visible. What do you guys think of the fit OTR? (I like my shirt sleeves and jacket sleeves slightly shorter, because I like to see the shape of the wrist.)

Also, can anyone tell me what is causing the little bump on the right shoulder seam? Thanks.

 

[shendo]

This Classic Napoli Dark Grey Plain from Suit Supply just came in today. The pictures below are of a 38R and I will be exchanging it for a 38L.

Other than the obvious (sleeves too short and trousers legs too long), what about the fit? To me, the shoulders, back, arms, and legs look good and don't seem to have any weird wrinkles or fabric pulling.

The 38L sleeves will have another inch (from 33.6 to 34.6) but I might still have them taken out another .5 inch for my long arms.

I personally don't mind the boxy look but may get the waist slightly suppressed for a more fitted shape. The trousers might look loose at the thigh but I'm afraid if the pants are too snug it will show off my chicken legs.

I appreciate any suggestions!