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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. mrjester

    mrjester Senior member

    Messages:
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    Do you believe the chest can be taken in a bit? In the picture, the armholes look low. They're actually high, just that the chest pops out on the sides a bit.

    https://s7.jcrew.com/is/image/jcrew/A9724_BR5868_m?$pdp_fs418_3x_zoom$

    Accurate representation and the exact one I'm contemplating.
     
  2. Ttailor

    Ttailor Senior member

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    Location:
    Canada
    

    I cannot tell whether the chest can be taken in from a photo.
    That is something best judged in person.
     
  3. MrNestor

    MrNestor Senior member

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    Location:
    Sweden
    I know this isn't the best picture but I'd still like to get a quick comment with your opinion.

    I'm a skinny guy with not much muscle on my arms which leads to sleeves on all kinds of coats being a bit bulky for me. I asked my tailor today if he could slim them down but he told me that it wouldn't be a good idea.
    His argument was that if you use the seam on the inside (closest to body) it would mess up the balance of the arm since it is pressed and sewn in a special way to make it 'drape' as it does.
    If you used the outside seam (furthest from body) it would be a problem for the buttons at the cuffs and would mess that up.

    Is it bullshit?


    [​IMG]

    PS. One of the lapels is incorrectly pressed, that will be fixed.
     
  4. Just a guy

    Just a guy Member

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    13
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    Jul 28, 2012
    It's not bullshit, exactly. Sleeves can be slimmed down, but it's a lot of work to do a good job. This blog post shows the ironwork that needs to be done on the forearm seam that your tailor was talking about. In itself, it's not a major challenge, but If you have the sleeve slimmed along its entire length, it will no longer fit the armhole, so something will have to be done about that.
     
  5. kmb0319

    kmb0319 New Member

    Messages:
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    Sep 26, 2014
    I have often looked at Styleforum for tips and research, but I am a brand new member. I needed to check with this thread for some advice, as I'm continuing to learn a lot about clothing, but would by no means consider myself an expert.

    About 6 years ago, I moved from an office job where "no denim and a shirt with a collar" was all that was expected into a sales career that required suits and ties. At the time, times were very tough financially, so "buy 1 get 1 free" and clearance racks were my only outlets. This continued even as I became very successful in my career, as other priorities came first. However, through SF and some of the other fashion blogs I've discovered over the past 18 months, I began to learn a lot more about suiting construction and quality, as well as the rise of the online custom clothing movement. (Indochino, Black Lapel, Dragon Inside, etc)

    As 2014 began, it was my intention to move into the online custom world, and I was debating who I would order from. In addition to the online MTM, I was looking at better quality OTR, as I knew I needed to really start over and get between 6-9 suits, but since I needed several suits, I still needed to be budget-conscious.

    In looking around, I discovered Austin Reed. I was very impressed with their looks, quality, selection and sale pricing. I took a chance and ordered two suits, and when I received them, I LOVED them. Very nice wool, real corozo or horn buttons, beautiful linings, and they seem to be half-canvassed. They also really fit me. I took them to my tailor for a few adjustments, and was very happy. In May, I ordered another AR suit as well as two from Saks Off Fifth. (In researching them on SF, their house line is made by Samuelsohn and is half-canvassed). The AR suits were $300, and the Saks suits were on a buy 1/get 1... with that discount, those suits cost $150/each!!! Last month, I ordered two more from Austin Reed and purchased 2 slim fit suits from Charles Thyrwhitt. (CT of course says "floating canvas chest piece, but has other suits that say half-canvassed. What's the difference?) I've taken all of them to my tailor, had some adjustments made to get them where I want them, and I'm happy with them.

    So now I've built a whole new suiting wardrobe covering my basics, and the thought was that I could now move into custom in the future to supplement my "bread and butter" wardrobe. However, I've attached several pictures of my current suits. Here's where I need some help: Every one of the suits I've purchased has been $300 or less, is half-canvassed, nice wool, and very comfortable. To my untrained eye, these suits fit very well... the coat lays nicely around the collar, the balance is good, jacket length varies slightly but the difference is minimal, the back lays flat and there isn't any bunching/twisting in the sleeves when I'm standing normally. (some of the pictures show some, but I'm twisting oddly trying to get the picture correct) The suits are size 40S. The pants have been tapered and the coat sleeves shortened about 1/2 inch. I'm now a little uncertain... I would still go the online MTM route, but I'm wondering if I just fall into an OTR size profile. Looking at these suits, are they fitting me as well as my untrained eye believes and what would Black Lapel or Dragon Inside improve? Certainly I would like to have a fully-canvassed suit, but from a fit standpoint, is it worth paying twice as much as what I have for these? (I know the pictures aren't good... hopefully they give you enough of an idea) Thank you for your input.

    AUSTIN REED


    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Super 120s worsted, functional cuffs One pic of the fit of the pants (not my best fitting shirt, btw)


    SAKS OFF FIFTH

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]


    CHARLES TYRWHITT ( I have not taken the light gray jacket in to have the sleeves adjusted, so they are too long)

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  6. Kingston83

    Kingston83 Active Member

    Messages:
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    Apr 11, 2013
    Thank you for the advice. I had my tailor rework the collar but I am sure that he did it by lowering it, not by raising it or increasing the fullness of the back. I've read through this thread a bit and agree with your assessment thought. Unfortunately the work is already done so I am "stuck" with this particular SC. Might I ask what your opinion is on the shoulders? They measure 18.5" point-2-point taken from the back. The last time I measured my shoulders, they were exactly 18.5" (acromion to acromion over the fullest section). I find that it is a snug fitting jacket and I may ask my tailor what his take is on seeing if he can let the chest out a little to allow for more comfortable movement.

    I know that the perfect fit depends on a range of variables and jackets may be had in different shoulder widths, but what would an acceptable range be for a size 40? For argument sake I have a rather full-cut suit that measures in between 19.5-19.75" p-2-p across the back. It is very comfortable and while I wish that the shoulders were a bit narrower, I can't say that it looks awful or over-sized.
     
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2014
  7. Ttailor

    Ttailor Senior member

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    May 27, 2011
    Location:
    Canada
    So lowering the collar in relation to the shoulder works in theory as long as that does not create another issue. That is the number one rule, and in a completed garment one is limited in approaching certain alterations.

    If your jacket measures exactly what your body underneath measures, thenI think that it would be better to have a small margin of ease, but the high blade still must be allowed for.

    I don't work in the RTW industry so I cannot say how wide their shoulder Pto P widths run. Every brand / cut is likely slightly different
    Average would be around 18 to 18 1/2"

    Perhaps you are not a 40 chest or just someone who needs something slightly different than a standard/ average proportion.
     
  8. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

    Messages:
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    Home
    My first pair of pleated trousers OTR from alteration tailor store. How does everything look? Do I wear pleated trousers well? Are the legs too full?


    How much should I hem the pants? Another 0.5" or 1"? The alteration tailor said he would not slant the hem for me since it is so tapered (approx. 8.00" leg opening).

    The alteration tailor said I have close to a full break (I asked for quarter break when he was sizing me up...)

    I feel like I have to write down a list of things to be done nowadays in order for the alteration tailor to do it right.

    I am trying to achieve the very look as seen on the CM forum by some of the heavy weight posters ;)

    I hope the photos are clear enough for all to see.

    Jacket off

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Jacket on

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  9. diodia

    diodia New Member

    Messages:
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    May 31, 2014
    Hey everyone! It is my first post on the forum, but I have been lurking around for quite a while. I am a junior in college, about to engulf myself in the internship search process. With that, I need a suit. I opted out for a Benjamin Sartorial Maestro, based on the recommendations on the forum and it actually fit the bill rather well. The fit is probably the nicest I have had on the suit. The chest could be let out a little. I am worried about the wrinkles in the back and if the shoulders are too big. I assume that there is a possibility to let out a little bit for the chest? Pants are not finished yet either, because I might need to return the suit. See the pics below.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Bottom line - is the suit workable ( if so, what should be done) or should I simply return it and keep on looking? Thank you in advance!!!
     
  10. msmith19

    msmith19 New Member

    Messages:
    4
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    Sep 27, 2014
    Hello all! Hoping to determine how this suit is for a starting point. It is currently untailored, but I want to make sure it's suitable before I get it done and can't return it. If you need different/more pictures let me know! Your help is deeply appreciated. Sienna from SuitSupply (38R)[​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  11. ktbishop222

    ktbishop222 Member

    Messages:
    7
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    Sep 28, 2014
    Location:
    Oklahoma City
    Hey everyone,
    I'm hoping to get some input on a suit that I already own. It's a J.Crew Factory Thompson suit that was bought for me about a year ago. Wondering what you all think about the length and shoulders, since I'm fairly new to all this and don't really have an eye for it yet. Any advice on what to have done to it is appreciated. The pants were hemmed a little when it was new, and the sleeves shortened slightly. I'm thinking about trying to get the jacket shortened, the waist of the jacket slimmed, and the sleeves and pants slimmed as well. Just wanted some opinions from people with more experience before I spend the money
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    . [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  12. Ttailor

    Ttailor Senior member

    Messages:
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    May 27, 2011
    Location:
    Canada
    
    Keep looking, there are too many issues here
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. Ttailor

    Ttailor Senior member

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    May 27, 2011
    Location:
    Canada
    


    I wish people wouldn't say things like the chest could be let out a little.
    In my experience, there are very small allownces inside an OTR jacket, there isn't anything to let out. All that can be done is lateral shifting and some taking in.
    Letting out is a no go in general.
     
  14. diodia

    diodia New Member

    Messages:
    2
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    May 31, 2014
    Thanks Ttailor for the insight - it is really valuable to a newbie who has very little knowledge about suits and their construction. For the "being let out a little" part - I understand the frustration, but not everyone knows as much as a tailor nor does anyone has enough time to indulge in this science. What seems possible for me, might sound completely stupid to you. I apologize for this!
     
  15. denizen

    denizen New Member

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    3
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2014
    Hi fellas,
    First post here and first suit, curious to hear some critique from knowledgeable gents. Perhaps learn some alterations that could be done to improve/fix issues (including my posture[​IMG]) or points to look out for in the future shopping trips.
    I am quite slim and have trouble finding suitable OTR suit/shirt for this, it's either slightly large or the next size down is incredibly difficult to order and ends up being tight/short as heck.
    Wondering if pant cuffs need to be taken up slightly more in an attempt to cleanup the legs, however when sitting they near to show top of socks already.

    Apologies for the contrasted near-overhead lighting, didn't think about this before taking the photos. Thanks for any advice


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  16. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
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    The voice of reason. Welcome to this thread Ttailor
     
  17. Ttailor

    Ttailor Senior member

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    May 27, 2011
    Location:
    Canada
    

    Well, how could you know? It just makes it sound simple and possible, and it is not just you.

    I would look for a regular cut- not a slim cut - if that is possible to find these days.
     
  18. Ttailor

    Ttailor Senior member

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    Thank-you.
     
  19. Ttailor

    Ttailor Senior member

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    May I be frank? If you can return this do it. You have a significantly dropped left shoulder, and a bit of a high prominent blade on the right. The back of the jacket looks a bit wide but there are serious sleeve issues that may or may not be fixable. The length is traditional which is ok by me, but that is a personal style preference. The trousers in my mind are too narrow and unflattering, as well as needing multiple corrections for seat and slight knee together stance. Again, not sure what is wrong with RTW trousers these days and I am never going to see the pattern they are using, but too many people have similar issues. Tall and slim is sometimes difficult to fit well OTR, bone structure often dictates a larger size to fit the shoulders, but body circumference doesn't co-relate as well. I can see this in the shirt. Keep looking, perhaps someone else has suggestions for a brand that is more flattering for tall and slim. You will still need to address shoulder issue.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. aDrummingDude

    aDrummingDude Senior member

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    Apr 19, 2014
    Location:
    Santa Rosa, CA
    Thanks for your insights Ttailor!

    I actually have the opposite problem in that my shoulders are slimmer than my chest. So, for instance, to get the shoulders where I want them to be I'd be buying a 40, but a 40 is too snug in the chest, so I buy a 42 which has too wide shoulders. I know its regarded as a cardinal sin to try to slim shoulders on a jacket after the fact, but this is the only way I can typically get a good fit. There is only one house, Armani, who's 42R jackets typically fit good OTR due to the narrower point to point in the shoulders of their more contemporary cuts. Everything else needs to be tailored down from a 42.

    Am I going about this the wrong way?
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2014

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