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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Ttailor

    Ttailor Senior member

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    In theory yes.
    Much easier on something bespoke at a fitting as it can be done at the shoulder, because there will be fabric allowed for making those changes.
    Not so easy to do on a finished RTW jacket. Likely not cost effective.
     
  2. Kingston83

    Kingston83 Active Member

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    Sorry to post this twice but I think my original post was lost in the mix. Also, have the professional tailors stopped visiting this thread? The amount of activity has dwindled from what I've seen in the earlier posts.

    I would really appreciate the professionals' opinions on this sport coat. It is a size 40R which is about what I normally take. My chest is closer to 41 but all of the suits that I have purchased have generally been a 40R. For reference the edge of my acromion process is right at the shoulder seam. I've never had the best of luck finding a perfect fit and "the shoulder's shouldn't extend past your natural shoulder" has never been of any real help to me. It seems to me that the width of the shoulder in regards to a good fit will also depend on how much room is in the sleeve to accommodate the size of someone's deltoids. I have a 42R in route and I plan on taking both to my tailor to get his opinion as well. I suppose that I should note that the thoracic portion of my spine is almost entirely straight and as a result I have very prominent shoulder blades. In addition a separated shoulder has resulted in a half-inch drop of my right arm. They aren't the best pictures so I will post better ones if needed.



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  3. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Senior member

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    Thanks for your reply-- I guess I'm looking for someone to explain the tailoring to fix collar gapping at the back/ side of the neck on a suit jacket. How is this surgery performed, and how does a good tailor perform this work to ensure the cloth is smooth/ no wrinkling or bunching on the inside of the collar neck?

     
  4. Shiny

    Shiny Senior member

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    In a similar vein, I'm looking at illustrations/youtube on how a tailor removes that bulge on the top middle of the back shoulder. I think the term is "excess fabric under the collar". I've googled and nothing. TIA.
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2014
  5. Ttailor

    Ttailor Senior member

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    Again it depends on why it is happening.
    Could be caused by too thick a shoulder pad in relation to the clients build and the cut of the jacket. Reduce and see if it makes it better.
    Barring some other contributing factor, the undercollar gets unpicked, back neck marked lower and back neck point dropped and shoulder seam made more square. Restitch
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. Ttailor

    Ttailor Senior member

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    The fabric looks strained across the upper back. In my experience, RTW offers little to no allowance for alterations. Someone correct me if I am wrong. I am firstly a bespoke patternmaker/cutter, not an alteration tailor. Generally, it is easier to work with something that needs to be taken in rather than let out. See if the next size up is workable. Your full blades need the extra width incorporated into more ease in the back shoulder (and perhaps a bit more length over the blade) to accomodate your shape. That means removing the sleeve and making alterations to the back shoulder/ armhole and resetting the sleeve. $$
     
  7. Shiny

    Shiny Senior member

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    Thanks.

    This usually happens with coats that are new for me. I have square shoulders and don't slope down. That may be the problem.

    When you say reduce, do you mean reduce the padding of the shoulder pads?

    Any videos or illustrations about unpicking?
     
  8. hallph

    hallph Member

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    Australia
    I'm not sure if this is appropriate here - if not, please tell me.
    Can anybody please provide some feedback on my shirt fit?
    In particular, the lumping of fabric in front of my left shoulder.

    What dimensions would you recommend I change for my next order to improve this issue, and the overall fit?

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Ttailor

    Ttailor Senior member

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    Yes i meant reduce the padding to see if that helps.
    Don't know of any videos.
     
  10. Ttailor

    Ttailor Senior member

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    You have prominent pecs , likely not accounted for in chest measurment, hence the shirt is too small.
    Armhole is too small then as well.
    Your shoulders are more sloped than shirt but the shirt shoulders cannot drop down as the dimension at the chest is controlling that.
    Shape of a shirt pattern armhole also contributes- because it is less shaped, in a too small shirt the breadth across the front is pulled right into the armhole
     
  11. hallph

    hallph Member

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    Fantastic feedback, thanks Tt, it's much appreciated.
    For my next shirt I'll ensure the chest measurement is larger, this should solve the problem.
    In conjunction with this, do you think making the armhole larger in size would be of any benefit? Or would the larger chest measurement render this unnecessary?
     
  12. Thrifter

    Thrifter Senior member

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    Probably a good idea to increase the armhole slightly. If this is Luxire you might also ask them to adjust for slightly forward and slightly sloped shoulders.
     
  13. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Senior member

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    I have a question for the tailors, although not one about fit. (I'll have some fit questions this weekend, assuming I can get photos.)

    My closet is getting full and I'd like to start putting some seasons items in storage. The only place I have to store them is a third-story attic that isn't climate controlled. It gets quite warm up there, even in winter. I know that I should have the items cleaned before storing them, but I was wondering about the potential effects of the heat. I should note that, although warm, it's also dry. Do I need to worry about the heat damaging any particular type of garments, or will they generally be OK? I was thinking, for example, about half-canvassed sport coats that probably have some fusing. Thanks!
     
  14. An Acute Style

    An Acute Style Senior member

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    Hello, all. I'm looking for some advice about how to improve the fit on these mtm pants.

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    Issues:
    1. Waist is too large (easy fix)
    2. Extra fabric/wrinkles at lower seat/upper back thigh
    3. Wrinkles under belt at front rise
    4. Wrinkles/drape at knees

    I'd really appreciate any recommendations. Thanks.
     
  15. Ttailor

    Ttailor Senior member

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    Can't/won't get into the ill fitting trouser topic too much at the moment. I would love to see the patterns being used for mtm and rtw because that would be telling. I think there is something very wrong fundamentally with the modern trouser pattern. Look at skinny trousers from the 1960's, they rarely had this problem. I don't know how you can could address changes from a consumer point of view. You have a light forward hip stance, many do. trouser would benefit from having a dart in the front waist to accomodate quad muscles. Usually you will be told to fix things by lifting at the back waist which makes the cb run straighter, but that either ends up with the waistline dipping more at cb(bad) (plus pocket placement will look odd) or if corrected loss of fabric over the seat(also bad in this case) and likely no inlay to let out on side seam. Many pairs including yours look like the back fork is short. So they say to let that out. It may help. On your side pic I can see a line of tension that runs from the bottom of the pocket opening under your seat, which indicates not enough fabric either at side seam (seam doesn't hang straight) or too short in fork........ Round and round it goes. The problem is recurring, so that is why I think something is off with patternmaking in the first place. I know that doesn't help you fix your problem but that's all I have ATM
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  16. mrjester

    mrjester Senior member

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    Tailors! I'm trying to find a place I can get a quick decent (to me, in Arizona) off the rack SC. I've got some crap front pictures.

    To be honest, I was in the store and had my girlfriend take the pictures, and it's all just weird to me. So I was trying to just get it over with. The sleeve was caught on something, apologies. I know the pictures are shit.

    Only one I have of the 36R:
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    I know it's a bit tight. I'm not sure what's up with the shoulders. I also believe, though you can't see due to not-so-good lighting, it's a bit short.


    Here is the 38R:
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    Shoulders too big? Chest too big?

    Thanks for all your feedback!

    Edit: Also, the 36R is 17.75" in shoulders. The 38R is 18.25. I wear 17.25 on this SC. I wonder if they didn't measure the same or something? I love the shoulders on the one below. But the 17.75" shoulders look wonky on the 36R above.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2014
  17. coolarrow

    coolarrow Senior member

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    Is there a good reference book for men's tailoring? With a lot of illustrations? I'm interested in coats/SCs especially.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2014
  18. An Acute Style

    An Acute Style Senior member

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    Thank you for your comments. I don't think they will give me the pattern to show you.
     
  19. mrjester

    mrjester Senior member

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    Just a ping for @Ttailor or @OTCtailor for a bit of advice on my crappy pictures if they could, I'd be mighty grateful :) I can't decide if I should do the 38 and get the chest taken in on the sides or what can be done. Or if it's even worth it to get either, really. Excluding back details, since I didn't get those pictures for you.
     
  20. Ttailor

    Ttailor Senior member

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    Go with the 38.
    Look at pulling at the top of the sleeve on the 36, and the pulling at front when buttoned.
     
    2 people like this.

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