The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. poissa

    poissa Senior member

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    This is my first purchase of a sportjacket. It's a Lardinini with surgeon cuffs, from Bloomingdales. It's certainly unlined s/s piece. Clearly, there is excess body. I believe this is a 40R. I am a 38R. The 38R had short sleeves. I appreciate all feedback. So, this might not worth. I am looking forward to your input. Also, when I see a tailor - I would like to be explicit concerning the work necessary to make this garment work. [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2011


  2. strakha

    strakha Member

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    I agree, looks good to me. Although sometimes it FEELS boxy when there is lots (too much???) structure. After I wore a nice thrifted italian style blazer that felt like a second skin some of my other jackets felt "boxy" in comparison when they don't move with you the same way.

    Being only 23 I try to ignore the siren call of fashion but the ultra slim GQ style suits look so good (even if they are clipped at the back and would allow zero movement)! This means often I look in the mirror and it seems boxy but I tell myself its actually not, in fact many a member of the older generation would think it was way too narrow!

    Just my 2c =)
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2011


  3. strakha

    strakha Member

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    I wear my jackets with the shoulders exactly like this, which I think is a more modern italian style IMHO. People will they that they are too small as you can see your shoulders bulging slightly laterally below the shoulder seam, but thats just the way our shoulders are shaped and to get rid of this we would need a big meaty 80's level of padding like in American Psycho =P

    People will argue but hey its what makes you feel comfortable, go with your gut instinct.

    I would have the waist taken in a bit as well it I were you, sleeve length is just how I like it.
     


  4. strakha

    strakha Member

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    Worn to death! How it should be =)

    I have seen before and after photos of mothholes being fixed by people who specialise in reweaving fabrics like this. They could harvest some from the inside somewhere and use it to painstakingly weave the hole. Sounds tough but this kind of fabric gets the best results.

    Of course you'll have to consider a way to prevent the same happening on the other button holes. Do the underside of the buttons have a sharp edge? I would use a piece of high grit sandpaper to smooth of the underside edge if so. Will never be noticable.
     


  5. CutandSew

    CutandSew Senior member

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    Ummm...I think the salesperson forgot to remove the anti-theft ink tag from your jacket.
     


  6. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    matsui, nice clean looking jacket .
    if the shoulders are comfortable enough for you, and you like it then with a some alts, keep it.
    you have a right low shoulder, pad it. but that may or may not cause a collar problem later that can be altered.
    its not often that center back needs to be taken in. in this case a little at the blade area and more in the butt.

    i wish you had buttoned the shirt collar
     


  7. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    the picture looks for all the world like moth holes.
    or the result of constant buttoning and unbuttoning that bottom one.
    in either case reweaving is the only solution.
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2011


  8. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    poissa

    i am afraid this will be major project . especially if the shoulders feel too wide and must be taken in.
    the area below the chest needs much work all around.
    for more info on that here - go to search , ask for "how many ways to take in a jacket".
    all in all i think its going to cost $$$$$.
    i wish you had buttoned up the jacket and the shirt collar.
     


  9. Master-Classter

    Master-Classter Senior member

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    Matsui - looks good, really good. I'm not sure I trust your tailor either, and to be honest, he's one of a few people you need to feel confident in. Consider finding a new one...

    poissa - body might be short, also considering it's a 3B. The main thing I wanted to say is boy have you ever come a long way since first joining the forum! I remember your first few fit pics, and these are a big improvement.
     


  10. matsui

    matsui Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. I went ahead dropped it off with another tailor, even though the other guy does good work, I don't like having to convince a professional that I know better than them, even if I do.
     


  11. stevent

    stevent Senior member

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    Was going to say the same.
     


  12. CosmeDaniel

    CosmeDaniel Senior member

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    I'd be interested to hear some feedback on this jacket. (Please ignore the poorly pressed collar).

    Specifically:
    I've realized, thanks to this jacket, that one of my shoulders hangs lower than the other.

    I personally feel as though the jacket is too long. Providing there's no strong objection from those providing feedback (and my tailor), I am considering shortening it by an inch (or two?).

    I was thinking that the shoulders were too long, but would be interested to hear everyones' thoughts. I have access to a great tailor but fear that the cost may be excessive if this is a major issue.

    Thanks in advance.

    Front:
    [​IMG]

    Side:
    [​IMG]

    Back:
    [​IMG]

    Shoulder:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2011


  13. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    yes this one will cost $$$$.
    shoulders too wide, back too long at the top.
    right shoulder low.
     


  14. nexus

    nexus Well-Known Member

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    Edit.
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2011


  15. stevent

    stevent Senior member

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    I got a ludlow tweed blazer from Mr. Porter last week and am debating whether I want to return or not. Sleeves/length are about .25 inches long, which isn't that big of a deal, but the stickler are the shoulders, see pic. Is that very noticeable? I have big rounded shoulders so there is that gap right at the shoulder seam. Is that an easy tailor fix?

    Should I keep it and tailor or return it? Pics will link to higher res.



    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    (or if someone wants it, it is in my sig)
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2011


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