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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. BM555

    BM555 New Member

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    Jul 17, 2014
    I just got this Black Lapel tuxedo. There are some things I like about it, and some things that I don't like, but I want to get some other opinions to see if they align with what I see. Any feedback would be much appreciated.

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  2. Returningson

    Returningson Senior member

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    Fullerton, CA
    had my tailor alter it. Whew....
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2014
  3. lee_44106

    lee_44106 Senior member

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    Location:
    the Zoo
    To BM555 and his Black label tuxedo


    -The short jacket emphasizes your hips, make you look like a man wearing a skirt.

    -The lapels are too small; they look very sorry

    -you have the infamous "shoulder divot"

    -Those tight pants puts extra emphasis on your bow-legged stance


    Other than that, it's just perfect.
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2014
  4. BM555

    BM555 New Member

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    Jul 17, 2014
    Thanks lee. I'm with you on the jacket length and tight pants. Too short of jacket was my biggest issue and was noticeable right away.

    I actually don't mind the lapels, but maybe they are a bit off?

    I can't figure out why there is this shoulder divot, as the shoulders seem to fit well. Thoughts on what measurements to change on the rework?
     
  5. Jokerman

    Jokerman Senior member

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    Location:
    Nantucket
    So I was in need of a blazer to make a full suit and I am one of those weird sizes in between a 34 & 36. I got this from Topman. How bad is the fit? I'm pretty sure it's probably to tight in the upper body area but I'm afraid if I size up it will be to big in the other areas. I appreciate any feedback. I do plan to get a proper suit made. This is just temporary but don't want to go out in it if it looks ridiculous.

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  6. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

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    The yoke looks like it extends too far out. The other questions could be tentatively answered, but the items should be brought to a tailor and his (or her) skill and attitude could be gauged by answers to those questions.
     
  7. JSDNJ

    JSDNJ Well-Known Member

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    Mar 17, 2014
    Shameless bump.
     
  8. ter1413

    ter1413 Senior member

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    Well...you can't lengthen the jacket......and that is the first noticeable error.
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2014
  9. ter1413

    ter1413 Senior member

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    Sleeves are too long(can be altered.)
    Jacket looks tight when buttoned.
     
  10. Limniscate

    Limniscate Senior member

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    Location:
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    Here's another photo with the braces loosened slightly.

    I'm not sure what to tell Patrick, if anything.

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  11. ebayhtl

    ebayhtl Senior member

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    Bump, in case any opinions from others - thanks!
     
  12. Rory Duffy

    Rory Duffy Well-Known Member

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    Nov 11, 2013
    Location:
    Williamsburg, Brooklyn, NY
    Hey Styleless Chap,

    Haven't posted on here for awhile.
    As you have bought your suit and are having it altered, and paying for the alts, I will give you my opinion.

    I like a long coat, but wear high waisted pants, so it balances out.
    My gauge is rule of thumb, when the wear fists his hands (like a soldier to attention) the thumb is in line with the hem.

    Most of the RTW I see now, its between the wrist and the knuckle.

    As for the sleeves, most prefer to show some cuff (3/8" for me). Wear a shirt and have the tailor measure from the tip of your thumb to the edge of the jacket cuff,4 1/2" is usually about right, some peoples thumbs are longer than other.

    Shorten it at the cuff, its cheaper, easier and less chance the tailor will have a hash of it.
    Sleeves are not easy to re-cut and set correctly.
     
  13. LukeRoz

    LukeRoz Member

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    Apr 30, 2014
    I bought a tuxedo shirt from Brooks Brothers and the neck is slightly big...not enough to size down but enough for me to notice. Question for any tailors or others with experience, is it possible to move the neck button over just a tad to create a snugger neck or will this mess up the rest of the shirt fit?

    Thanks.
     
  14. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Jun 1, 2012
    @Despos , @OTCtailor , @Rory Duffy

    I'm curious about the slight bowing of the lapel here. Is this a result of a ever so slightly too tight chest?
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  15. Mike86

    Mike86 New Member

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    Jul 26, 2014
    So, I was in need of my first tuxedo and thought I would give SuitSupply MTM a try. I think overall it came out well, but the jacket is a bit tight when closed. The guy at the store thought that you wouldn't wear it buttoned with a vest, which I feel is debatable.
    I am planning to go back to the store next week to see what could be done. It might be possible to shift the buttonhole and button a bit to make everything a bit wider. I feel as it was MTM it should probably fit better, but then again I am not sure what I should expect at this price (838GBP). What are your thoughts?

    Please excuse the fact that I am wearing a normal shirt in the picture. (Also there is a light directly above me to make it easier to see the pulling of the fabric.)

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  16. TieMyShoe

    TieMyShoe Senior member

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    These are MTM shirt and suit. Any thoughts and opinions on the fit will be appreciated.

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  17. octafuzz99

    octafuzz99 Member

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    The jacket is too tight/small which is why the lapels are bowing like that.
     
  18. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

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    How difficult is it to take in the chest of an unlined jacket, especially made out of knit linen.

    See spoiler for the exact fabric I am talking about. Would this be something difficult to work with?

    I need a jacket of this fabric taken in slightly in the chest and maybe shorten the sleeves (non functioning buttons).

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    The composition is 85/15 linen-cotton blend.

    I have a size 40 that fits perfectly IMO but had to size up to a 42 on a different color. Unfortunately the size 42 chest if more apparent and sleeves slightly longer than I prefer.

    Here is an example of the size 40 worn:

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    * * *

    Another question, I had the tailor take in the waist for 8 pair of trousers. The balance (inseam) on several pairs so far are not balanced (right inseam slightly higher, floats). My right hip is higher and I was told when the waist/seat gets taken in it would not effect the length of the pants. Turned out wrong and this is bothering me (a lot). I will go back to ask for it to be fixed. Am I right in doing so? What went wrong exactly? Why did some pairs get unbalance in the length while other pairs did not (or I could be wrong and all are unbalanced...)
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2014
  19. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

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    As an update:

    Dropped by the tailor today, 3 out of 5 pants were unbalanced in the leg (2 pants had the right leg inseam shorter, 1 pant had the left leg too long). The cost to fix one leg for three pants with cuff is $27.

    The tailored showed a little hesitation when I brought it up at the beginning telling me to perhaps walk it out, and the length may even out. As he noted, throughout the day your pants sitting at your waist for example will move about. I was very cautious and thought better that wearing the pants a few times would automatically help adjust the length of one leg to balance out. Sounds a bit farfetched.

    I ended up taking this as a lesson learned; it would be better to adjust the waist for a better fit before evening out the inseam. I happened to first get my pants hemmed on all my pants, realized the waist could be taken in, and the result was this.

    For the tailors here, is this common? How would you deal with it? FWIW the tailor I worked with did ask me at the time when I was requesting a hem to my 5 pants whether the waist was okay. I supposedly gave the most generic answer, which was "I'm going to wear a belt."

    I also picked up 3 more pairs of pants that all ended up good. There was a little bit of a price discrepancy though. Prior I had 5 pair of trousers requesting to take in the waist, total was about 92.50. Next request was 3 pants to take in the waist and the total was $70.00. I'm assuming the latter had more handwork since he mentioned about cleaning up the seat, too.

    Overall, I'm not sure if I'm still having to learn a lot about working with a tailor or the ones around here are mediocre. Been to 4 already, the most current I actually enjoy the most despite some hurdles. Current shop has also been discussed, visited, and referred to by members on this forum for those in the Bay Area. I'm still hesitant to bring in the jacket above...seems like complicated work.
     
  20. sinfiery

    sinfiery New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2014
    Got this suit from Black Lapel MTM. Got measured in the NYC store.


    Going in on August 4th to get adjustments from their tailors.

    What I noticed (please do add anything you see)
    Small problems: Small wrinkle on the back of neck
    Bigger problem: When the top button is closed, pretty huge flaring of the lapels and subsequent chest gap.

    I can't tell if this is because the chest length on the front of the suit is too small, if the waist is too tight, or
    both?
    I think the waist is definitely too tight as there seems to be an "X".

    How hard would this be to fix and how long would it take?

    The suit just came in the mail so it may be wrinkles and not the fit causing some (hopefully) of the lines

    Also, the dress shirt length is short.


    Thanks
    Here are the pics:




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    I should note, the vents close fine, it's just that I folded it poorly and now there is a big crease on the right vent in the picture below.

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    Last edited: Aug 1, 2014

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