The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[hookem12387]

If anyone has suggestions on these pants, please let me know. They clearly need work, I'm just not exactly sure what needs to be done to get them to hang more cleanly, particularly in the back. Also, the pockets flare more as I wear them throughout the day. My butt isn't huge, but it's not entirely in proportion to my waist and results on every pair of pants I own getting some level of pocket flare. The pants are Luxire so I can submit any changes to any area, but can't have them actually come measure me. Thanks in advance:

Also accepting suggestions on the shirt. The shirt is Hamilton from here in Houston, so this I can have them tweak in person. I'd appreciate comments from here, too, though.

 

[Fouracle]

Hi all. I got my trial shirt from Modern Tailor and it seems to be a bit tight around the chest area. There's also too much excess fabric on the back. There also seems to be excess fabric in the armholes when I extend my arms. Any suggestions appreciated. I would like the shirt to be slim fitting. Here are thee measurements I used:

Collar: 15.5 in
Half-Chest: 20.0 in
Half-Waist: 19.5 in
Half-Hip: 20.0 in
Sleeves: 23.5 in
Half-Bicep: 6.5 in
Cuffs: 9.0 in
Yoke: 17.0 in
Shoulder: 5.5 in
Shirt Length: 31.0 in
Armhole: 9.0 in

Back: Average
Shoulder: Average
Stomach: Flat
Body: Slim

 

[An Acute Style]

Hi all. I got my trial shirt from Modern Tailor and it seems to be a bit tight around the chest area. There's also too much excess fabric on the back. There also seems to be excess fabric in the armholes when I extend my arms. Any suggestions appreciated. I would like the shirt to be slim fitting. Here are thee measurements I used:

Collar: 15.5 in
Half-Chest: 20.0 in
Half-Waist: 19.5 in
Half-Hip: 20.0 in
Sleeves: 23.5 in
Half-Bicep: 6.5 in
Cuffs: 9.0 in
Yoke: 17.0 in
Shoulder: 5.5 in
Shirt Length: 31.0 in
Armhole: 9.0 in

Back: Average
Shoulder: Average
Stomach: Flat
Body: Slim

I think the chest is fine, but the armholes are too narrow. I'd add an 0.75 or 1 inch to the armhole. The sleeves are also too short. I'd add about 1 or 1.5 inch to the sleeve length. I'd take in the half waist and hips about 0.5 inch and add about 0.25 or 0.5 inches to the shoulders.

 

[zargoz]

zargoz:

Without commenting on anything else, I would say return both, only based on the stance aka buttoning position. They're both really high, especially on the Abboud. As a result, the ensemble's balance is completely thrown off. You appear to be a pretty tall fellow, but those jackets make your dimensions look disproportionate. Moving a buttonhole clearly can't be fixed by a tailor.

Return them, and try looking for jackets that have a lower buttoning point such that it creates a deeper V. It'll make you look broader, as opposed to now, where you look a bit scrunched up.

Thanks for the tip, looking at the photos I see what you mean. I think it may partly be down to the camera angle, perspective may be off as I rested it on a shelf to take the photos and maybe it was too low. For reference I'm 5'8", the top button on either suit is hitting about 3" - 4" above my naval. Would that be too high?

 

[An Acute Style]



Thanks for the tip, looking at the photos I see what you mean.  I think it may partly be down to the camera angle, perspective may be off as I rested it on a shelf to take the photos and maybe it was too low.  For reference I'm 5'8", the top button on either suit is hitting about 3" - 4" above my naval.  Would that be too high?

Yes, should be 1 or 2 inches.

 

[RolanBlu]

Good evening ladies(?) and gentlemen,

First, it is my first time posting, and second I will have to apologize for any amount of ignorance I may have, as I have just received my MTM suit (which is also my first suit to own.) from Black Lapel. And third, for anything unprofessional like wrinkles, I just took it out of the box and rushed into putting it on with excitement.

I will apologize again for bad lighting in the pictures, and for the shoes, as I am still deciding between Andrew Lock and Allen Edmonds, and so I just wore my ugly shiny Army Issued shoes.

I didn't realize that slim was so... Slim, it may take a bit getting used to.

My only concern is the trousers, which makes me feel a bit uncomfortable with socks showing while standing. Other forums and advisors state that it is trendy and modern, but I don't know, maybe I just need to get used to it.

Experts, any advice?
.

 

[RolanBlu]



Good evening ladies(?) and gentlemen,

First, it is my first time posting, and second I will have to apologize for any amount of ignorance I may have, as I have just received my MTM suit (which is also my first suit to own.) from Black Lapel. And third, for anything unprofessional like wrinkles, I just took it out of the box and rushed into putting it on with excitement.

I will apologize again for bad lighting in the pictures, and for the shoes, as I am still deciding between Andrew Lock and Allen Edmonds, and so I just wore my ugly shiny Army Issued shoes.

I didn't realize that slim was so... Slim, it may take a bit getting used to.

My only concern is the trousers, which makes me feel a bit uncomfortable with socks showing while standing. Other forums and advisors state that it is trendy and modern, but I don't know, maybe I just need to get used to it.

Experts, any advice? If more pictures are required. I will gladly offer.
.

 

[An Acute Style]

Good evening ladies(?) and gentlemen,

First, it is my first time posting, and second I will have to apologize for any amount of ignorance I may have, as I have just received my MTM suit (which is also my first suit to own.) from Black Lapel. And third, for anything unprofessional like wrinkles, I just took it out of the box and rushed into putting it on with excitement.

I will apologize again for bad lighting in the pictures, and for the shoes, as I am still deciding between Andrew Lock and Allen Edmonds, and so I just wore my ugly shiny Army Issued shoes.












I didn't realize that slim was so... Slim, it may take a bit getting used to.

My only concern is the trousers, which makes me feel a bit uncomfortable with socks showing while standing. Other forums and advisors state that it is trendy and modern, but I don't know, maybe I just need to get used to it.

Experts, any advice?
.

I think this looks really good on you. The break on the pants is modern, but I like it given how narrow the leg opening is. The only thing I might change is the waist suppression. You seem to be a slim guy, but the waist looks like it might be too snug here. How does it feel when you're sitting down or when you raise your arms? You should be able to do natural things in your jacket without feeling uncomfortable. Overall, it looks great though.

 

[smoothmoose]

^^ Seriously. This is very good for your first suit, and online MTM.

If it is too tight, you might want to have the waist taken out a bit. I agree with Acute that the pants looks good with the slim taper given your slim build. But again it's uncomfortable to sit down in, you might need the entire taper taken out a bit.

But overall, looks great for your first suit.

 

[AlexE]

RolanBlu

Welcome to the Forum!

So the jacket is obviously short (too short for my taste), the trousers are short (too short for my taste) and the whole ensemble looks very slim (too slim for my taste). So, if you are going for the trendy slim+short suit look, the fit seems fine (except for the wrinkles under the shoulder in the side and rear view, but those might also be the result of wearing the suit straight out of the box).

You mentioned that it feels very slim - at this point you need to honestly answer yourself if it is just a different feeling from jeans and sweaters or if you feel constrained when moving and sitting in the suit. The latter would be an issue since suits are there to be worn when walking, sitting, working and not for posing without motion for photos (unless you are a RLBL model).

 

[RolanBlu]

I want to thank you guys! I was expecting some heavy bashing with the nature of this thread. Well, I decided to keep the whole look then. I will have to learn to fit with the modern trend of having socks show...

As for the feel of the slim fit, it is snug but it doesn't hinder me from activities. I love it, it's nice and snug.
.

 

[OTCtailor]

Rolanblu if I saw you on the street I'd compliment and then try to convert you..it looks good!

 

[RolanBlu]



Rolanblu if I saw you on the street I'd compliment and then try to convert you..it looks good!

Thank you! Convert me? I don't understand, but I'd be happy to listen to what you have to say about this.

Now I will be happy to walk wearing this, with so much confidence. I guess I won't be making and alteration or remaking since it seems perfect and you all don't have anything much to say.
.

 

[Just a guy]

Echoing the sentiments above - not personally a fan of this super-slim look, but it looks extremely good on you and the suit fits you exceptionally well.

If you're concerned about showing your socks, you could search the forums for posts about having the trouser bottoms slanted. In days of yore, trousers were worked up with the iron by the tailor to conform to the shape of the leg, and this naturally caused a straight-across hem to be a little lower at the back than at the front. This could be augmented by turning the hems on the slant as well - variously referred to as "cavalry cut", "guardsmen's hems", and "west-point style" among other names, no doubt. See http://www.styleforum.net/t/298668/a-horisontal-or-a-litlle-angled-end-of-the-pants for example.

The only other observation I have is that you should make sure that the bottom of your tie isn't peeking out between the points of your waistcoat (unless you've done that deliberately, and I've seen a few people who do. Actually, scratch that, you still shouldn't do it

).

 

[An Acute Style]

Looking for fit advice on this new MTM shirt. I need to make the armholes larger. Any other suggestions.