1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Rhodes112

    Rhodes112 Member

    Messages:
    10
    Joined:
    May 14, 2012
    I recently purchased two pairs of Howard Yount pants: one of the Italian fit (grey flannel) and one of the American fit (brown). What is Styleforum's opinions on these fits? Both are unhemmed now, yet pinned for the photos.

    My worries are that the Italian fit are too tight (pocket flare, possibly can see pocket lining). However, I wonder if the American fit pants are too loose (baggy around the thigh, insufficient taper to the leg opening). I know I need to have the waist taken in on that pair and the seat cleaned up. I am leaning towards the American fit pants since they are more easily alterable (taking in vs. letting out) and my larger upper half seems to fit a more conservative pant style. What are others' thoughts?


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2014
  2. ter1413

    ter1413 Senior member

    Messages:
    18,042
    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2009
    Location:
    Central Booking
    
    sleeves are waaaay too long.
     
  3. HalInc

    HalInc New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2014
    Hello all,

    I received this slim fit navy MTM suit from Black Lapel this week, and I'd appreciate your opinion on the fit. To me, it looks too wide around the shoulders and upper back, but this will be my first suit so my eye is probably not as sharp as yours!

    Thanks for your help.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  4. logan858

    logan858 Active Member

    Messages:
    41
    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2012
    I have a question for any tailors.

    I regularly have my dress pants tapered down the leg. My tailor will typically take most of the fabric in through the outseam seam. He has stated that he can only do so much before the pressed seam becomes off-center.

    I've heard that taking in the legs is typically done primarily through the outseam by other tailors as well. My question is, why do tailors do this? why not take it in equally from both inseam and outseam?
     
  5. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    It should be done on both the inseam and the out seam to keep the crease centered.
    If you are tapering a significant amount it is best to open the inseam and out seam and reduce equal amounts on the front panel at the bottom and the knee and taper up thru the thigh to the hip. They should cut off the extra cloth and serge the seams again.

    It is ok to reduce the back part more along the out seam and less along the curve of the inseam of the back part. Doing it this way (reducing the front panel and the back panels separately) you only have to adjust the crease of the back part, the front is the same as before and you won't have to deal with a double crease down the front leg. This is for tailored trousers and not jeans.

    If the tailors you use only reduce the leg along the out seam they are taking a shortcut and not doing the alteration properly. You should expect to pay more if they take the steps described above due to the extra time it will take but the adjustment will be more of a recut than simply reducing the out seam.
     
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2014
  6. NeedForTweed123

    NeedForTweed123 Senior member

    Messages:
    152
    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2013
    Should these pants be slimmed? They look wrinkly because they're linen / cotton. [​IMG] [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  7. touchogrey

    touchogrey Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    90
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2012
    This is probably a very naive question - but I couldn't find it in search -

    how feasible is it for a tailor to more or less imitate the pattern/cut of a dress shirt I already own? And what would this on average cost?

    Thanks to anyone who can help me understand this
     
  8. ter1413

    ter1413 Senior member

    Messages:
    18,042
    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2009
    Location:
    Central Booking
    
    Take additional pics with the jacket on to confirm sleeve length.
     
  9. ter1413

    ter1413 Senior member

    Messages:
    18,042
    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2009
    Location:
    Central Booking
    
    Doesn't look to bad. Me? I would cuff the pants. But that is personal preference.
     
  10. ter1413

    ter1413 Senior member

    Messages:
    18,042
    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2009
    Location:
    Central Booking
    
    Sleeves look a little long..or your shirtsleeves are too short. Did you have on a proper shirt when you were fitted?
     
  11. Baked Potato

    Baked Potato Senior member

    Messages:
    279
    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2012
    Location:
    Stockholm, Sweden
    Is possible to take in a pair of trouers (that's never been altered before) 2-3" in the waist?
     
  12. gyasih

    gyasih Senior member

    Messages:
    5,346
    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2010
    

    That's a lot to take in. I wouldn't do anymore than 1.5"
     
  13. Baked Potato

    Baked Potato Senior member

    Messages:
    279
    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2012
    Location:
    Stockholm, Sweden
    I remember reading somewhere (I don't remember where) that 3" is the max limit before needing to recut the trousers. Although, as I said, it's only something I've read.

    @Despos , do you know if it's possible, or is 3" too much?
     
  14. NeedStyleHelp

    NeedStyleHelp Senior member

    Messages:
    208
    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2012
    Location:
    Toronto
    Here's a question I've pondered over for awhile. Is there an appropriate circumference measurement you should have when tapering the sleeve opening on a jacket to the wrist?

    I remember Flusser mentioning this in Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion, but he never went into an appropriate amount. I'm guessing it would depend on the size of one's wrist.
     
  15. HalInc

    HalInc New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2014
    Thanks for your feedback. The sleeves may indeed be a little long, but the problem may appear worse here than it actually is.
    My shirtsleeves aren't hanging naturally in these particular pictures. I didn't notice this until your reply - sorry about that! The shirtsleeves actually extend 1/4-1/2 inch below the jacket sleeves.

    What do you think about the fit of the trousers?
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2014
  16. ter1413

    ter1413 Senior member

    Messages:
    18,042
    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2009
    Location:
    Central Booking
    

    From the side they look ok. From the back/front, there are issues. I also always cuff my pants(my preference.) There is also not a good shot that shows the length properly.
     
  17. jimanchower

    jimanchower Senior member

    Messages:
    175
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2013
    Not a fit question, but one for the tailors.

    I've got an Arc'teryx Veilance blazer that I am really fond of, but the sleeves are too long (as with most AV stuff for me). There are no buttons on the sleeves so fortunately this is easily fixed by turning the end of the sleeve inside of itself and creating a cuff. From the outside you can't tell that it's cuffed, and the sleeve length is just about perfect. But of course the cuff will sometimes some undone as I put my arms through the sleeves, so I've been thinking about using fabric tape to [semi-]permanently hold the cuff in place. The jacket is 94% nylon / 6% elastane and the care instructions say to iron on low. Anything I should be concerned about, having never used fabric tape? Will it leave a residue? Will it have to be redone after each wash (which will only be a couple of times a year, I imagine)?

    Picture shows the sleeve turned inside-out and the cuff the way I wear it.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2014
  18. hoodog

    hoodog Senior member

    Messages:
    1,445
    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2012
    Location:
    Stockholm, Sweden
    Having a hard time analyzing this jacket's fit. Are the shoulders too wide? Chest too wide?

    Thanks!

    [​IMG]
     
  19. lostintranslation

    lostintranslation Senior member

    Messages:
    119
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2011
    Hello gents,

    I recently purchased my first full-canvased suit from Paul Stuart and was hoping to get some critique here for further alterations. My problem with suits has always been my unusual body shape; I'm not very tall, but I have very broad shoulders for my height.

    I decided to purchase this suit from Paul Stuart because they offer suits in a size 39. Their Phineas Cole line was too tight on me, so I had to go with their mainline Paul Stuart, which is considerably baggier. I had the trousers slimmed down to fit similar to their Phineas Cole trousers. In hindsight, I'll probably be going MTM in the future since it was such a hassle to get this suit tailored to such an extreme.

    One of the things that's bothering me is how the jacket flares out at the hips. You can see this effect in photos two and three. I'm not sure if this is a result of the waist suppression or not. Do you guys think the jacket flares out too much? Would it an easy fix? If so, I'll take it to the tailor later this week after I've started work.

    Any critique would be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance for any thoughts!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 4, 2014
  20. ter1413

    ter1413 Senior member

    Messages:
    18,042
    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2009
    Location:
    Central Booking
    

    Are you wearing a short sleeved shirt?
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by